Good idea.. where's my hat...quote:
Originally posted by Audi Junkie:
Why not just pick names out of a hat?
One from column A, one from coloumn B..etc..???
DIY Synthetic Blend
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Has a nice ring to it.quote:
Originally posted by pscholte:
DuraMaxSuperRoyalCitlone...I've heard of that brand...no, really......OK, I haven't...but I could have...
Would you believe I HAVE heard of that brand...quote:
Originally posted by TallPaul:
I currently have in stock the necessary ingredients for SuperLifeSynMaxPowerGuard.
Funny, I was just going to post a question about this......
Since my pan holds about 4.25 quarts, I was going to buy a gallon of Rotella T Synthetic. The question becomes, should I buy another gallon and try to explain to the wife why I'm spending $30 on the oil chnage rather than $16? Or, should I buy the gallon and then a quart of M1?
Part of my goal in going to the synthetic is that I'm hoping to gradually clean up my 2.0L VW engine with 140k miles.
Any opinions welcome!!!
Thanks,
Ashley
Since my pan holds about 4.25 quarts, I was going to buy a gallon of Rotella T Synthetic. The question becomes, should I buy another gallon and try to explain to the wife why I'm spending $30 on the oil chnage rather than $16? Or, should I buy the gallon and then a quart of M1?
Part of my goal in going to the synthetic is that I'm hoping to gradually clean up my 2.0L VW engine with 140k miles.
Any opinions welcome!!!
Thanks,
Ashley
"Chevron Delo 400 as the base. Add M1 as required to achieve viscosity and price goal. "
Running this in my car right now. Added 1 quart of M1 SS 5w30 to 4 quarts of 15w40 Delo 400. Car has been running great this summer (3.8L SuperC V-6). Will run Rot-T Syn 5w40-4 quarts w/ 1 quart of M1 0w40 for the Winter. For the price, tough to beat IMO.
Running this in my car right now. Added 1 quart of M1 SS 5w30 to 4 quarts of 15w40 Delo 400. Car has been running great this summer (3.8L SuperC V-6). Will run Rot-T Syn 5w40-4 quarts w/ 1 quart of M1 0w40 for the Winter. For the price, tough to beat IMO.
1300 Super and Mobil 1 10w-30 looks like a good blend to me.
The PAO will improve 1300s cold viscosity properities.
And a small amount of PAO is not enough to hurt solubility or decrease the AW adds in 1300 very much.
The PAO will improve 1300s cold viscosity properities.
And a small amount of PAO is not enough to hurt solubility or decrease the AW adds in 1300 very much.
If you want a 40 wt. why not just use a AMSOIL 10/30 say and add about 4/6 oz of Schaeffer Moly E.P..
0.25 qt is 8 oz which is exactly the amount of Auto Rx needed for 4 quarts of oil. But if you ran ARx you would want non-synthetic oil. Auto Rx is highly regarded on this site for being one of the best engine cleaners. I am trying it now. Too soon to tell results.
Or you could run the Rotella synthetic and add half a bottle of Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment. Or throw in a quarter quart of Redline, the esters of which may add some cleaning power.
Hmmmm. Puts a whole new meaning to the term "dual purpose motor oil."quote:
Originally posted by pscholte:
Would you believe I HAVE heard of that brand...quote:
Originally posted by TallPaul:
I currently have in stock the necessary ingredients for SuperLifeSynMaxPowerGuard.
..No?...man you guys are tough! TP, just promise me that you will never mix anything into the...well, you know...the...um-m-m Elixer of Life, Love and Engines that purr like a kitten.
GC, RL, MaxLife, QS 5w-50 and the special ingredient: 'ol Yeller.
Ok, if you insist...
IMHO, use Shell Rotella 5w-40.
How about Shell Rotella T synthetic blend 10w-40(w/PAO)!
It scores points for the "hard to find" factor!
It scores points for the "hard to find" factor!
So, if one is bound and determined to mix oil, what is the best combination?
I would think mixing dino and synthetic of the same company and same viscosity grades would be the safest. But that is somewhat limiting to merely mixing up a heavier synthetic blend than available off the shelf. What if you want to fortify your oil, say with esters by adding Redline, or a ZDDP boost with some HDMO? Is there any reason not to treat one of these oils as an additive as you would Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment? What would be the difference?
If it is really bad to mix two different oils, then would it not also be bad to mix an additive into your oil? Or is there less chance of additive clash with the latter?
One area where I could see a downgrade in performance is in mixing two different grades, such as 15w50 with 10w30. This would create a dumbell (or bimodal) distribution of oil molecules, which I would think is undesireable given that one of the positive features of synthetic oils is its very tight molecule size distribution. However, I believe that some dino oils already have the dumbell distribution because the manufacturer has mixed two base oils to get the desired base viscosity and maybe that is one of the many reasons dino does not perform as well as synthetic. (Maybe Valvoline's secret is to avoid dumbell distributions and that that compensates for the seemingly weak additive package.)
Any way to tell what dino oils have a dumbell distribution so you can avoid them? Or is this a non issue?
I would think mixing dino and synthetic of the same company and same viscosity grades would be the safest. But that is somewhat limiting to merely mixing up a heavier synthetic blend than available off the shelf. What if you want to fortify your oil, say with esters by adding Redline, or a ZDDP boost with some HDMO? Is there any reason not to treat one of these oils as an additive as you would Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment? What would be the difference?
If it is really bad to mix two different oils, then would it not also be bad to mix an additive into your oil? Or is there less chance of additive clash with the latter?
One area where I could see a downgrade in performance is in mixing two different grades, such as 15w50 with 10w30. This would create a dumbell (or bimodal) distribution of oil molecules, which I would think is undesireable given that one of the positive features of synthetic oils is its very tight molecule size distribution. However, I believe that some dino oils already have the dumbell distribution because the manufacturer has mixed two base oils to get the desired base viscosity and maybe that is one of the many reasons dino does not perform as well as synthetic. (Maybe Valvoline's secret is to avoid dumbell distributions and that that compensates for the seemingly weak additive package.)
Any way to tell what dino oils have a dumbell distribution so you can avoid them? Or is this a non issue?
A variation on dropitbuys's suggestion...how about 4 qts. MC 5W-20, plus 12-14 oz. Schaeffers 132, some LC to reduce oxidation... and 10-12oz. 10W-40 or 50 to fill up the sump? That should make something in the upper 30W range?
Can I mix exxon super flow 5w20 with mobile delvac 1300 super 15w40, to give me a good 10w 30 oil ? 50/50 mix ? I just read a good UOA on the 5w20 superflow.I may even mix superflow 5w20 with royal purple 5w20 ? any advise , on either application ? jack.
Why not try Schaeffers 7000 blend 10W-30? Some very good UOAs on the board for this oil.
That is a good oil, I agree.But I already have the RP,Superflow, and delvac. Mix the 5w20 rp and superflow for my honda. then 5w20 superflow and 15w40 delvac for my 94 nissan quest van, and 87 nissan truck. The exxon rep said yes, the mobile rep said no . Who knows ?
The days when additive incompatibility could gum up your engine are probably long past. Someone may use magnesium in lieu of calcium as a detergent, or molybdenum in addition to zinc and phosphorus, but mixing modern base stocks and additives together shouldn't present any problems.
I just returned from vacation. We drove my wife's Toyota with a 2.4 liter 4 cylinder. Before we left I changed the oil and filter and used a mix of 2 quarts of 0W-30 Mobil 1, 1 quart of 0W-30 Mobil 1 racing (to increase anti-wear additive levels), .75 quart of 10W-30 Pennzoil Group III (I have a couple of quarts left over from a case), and .25 quart of 5W-30 Red Line. The Red Line's polyolester base ensures that the additives won't drop out and increases the load bearing rating and flash points of the mix. It also helps the mix cling to hot metal.
Based on a what I know of the additives in each, their ratings, and the ratios in which I mixed them, I wound up with something that approximates 2W-30, a flash point around 450 F, a VI around 170, and an additive profile around:
Silicon 4
Molybdenum 110
Boron 120
Magnesium 20
Phosphorus 950
Zinc 1085
Calcium 2640
TBN 12
plus or minus the production variances.
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