DIY Synthetic Blend

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Originally posted by Marty:
The days when additive incompatibility could gum up your engine are probably long past. Someone may use magnesium in lieu of calcium as a detergent, or molybdenum in addition to zinc and phosphorus, but mixing modern base stocks and additives together shouldn't present any problems.

I think you are right. This may be due to standardization from the few suppliers of base oils and additive packs. Additionally, I think motor oils are produced with the idea that people will be people and that means many will not be able to let well enough alone (like me), and so they are careful to not include anything that might be reactive with other oils. The way companies are wary of being sued, surely they would have a warning if they thought their motor oil could react adversely with another motor oil.

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I just returned from vacation. We drove my wife's Toyota with a 2.4 liter 4 cylinder. Before we left I changed the oil and filter and used a mix of 2 quarts of 0W-30 Mobil 1, 1 quart of 0W-30 Mobil 1 racing (to increase anti-wear additive levels), .75 quart of 10W-30 Pennzoil Group III (I have a couple of quarts left over from a case), and .25 quart of 5W-30 Red Line. The Red Line's polyolester base ensures that the additives won't drop out and increases the load bearing rating and flash points of the mix. It also helps the mix cling to hot metal.

Not sure how the polyolester base prevents additives from dropping out in your mix. Where did you hear this? The cling is good and should reduce start up wear. It may be that Redline should be treated as an aftermarket additive and used all the time, maybe half a quart or a full quart. Increased overall flash point, but I think the lighter elements will still flash off (weakest link).

But are you wasting the M1 to add Redline? Would not a dino/Redline mix give you most of the benefits, unless you are going extended drain intervals, in which case, you could run Supertech Synthetic (cheaper) with Redline and get most of the benefits of the M1/Redline mix (I would think).
 
quote:

Originally posted by TallPaul:
Not sure how the polyolester base prevents additives from dropping out in your mix.

Solvency is the key; group V and I have excellent, while group II & III have good, and group IV has only fair solvency.
 
Chevron Delo 400 as the base. Add M1 as required to achieve viscosity and price goal.

This is what I was thinking for my 7.5L engine.
 
I'm changing my oil this morning and using "my blend".Its 3 quarts Chevron Supreme 10W30 and 3 quarts Mobil1 10W30.Eventually it will be all Mobil1 10W30.
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