Blending (i.e. DIY ing) my own 2 Stroke oil?

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Why? How much would you spend a year on 2 cycle oil if your just bought it at Walmart?

You have to pay for the oil you are blending. Maybe you are refining your own oil also from crude oil?
My uneducated guess would be to use castor oil? Although looks like it's kinda spendy these days. Back when I played with nitro powered rc's that was what was mainly used for the oil, nowadays obviously there's all the synthetics.

The engines work on the same 2-stroke principle but not sure if gasoline and castor play well together
...I realize this is probably not going to be a popular topic. The ratios (approx) and ingredients are all right there clear as day on the MSDS sheets. Obviously there's research involved to make a commercial product, but it doesn't seem like rocket science. And in this case, it's not ever going to be a commercial product. I'm just hoping for something better than the SAE 30 that manuals of yesteryear recommended as a substitute.
There is more to making two-cycle oils than you imagine. SDS are not a formulation or recipe:

Today, and in order to get the lean mixtures required for clean exhaust gases, a minimum of Group III through Group V base oils must be used. Now to the additives. The calcium and the magnesium combo is a mild friction reducer but primarily serves as a detergent that minimizes carbon deposits, but not all deposits. In modern 2C oils, this is up to the synthetic base oil mix, usually comprised of one of more ester base oils. One anti-wear component seen is the low treatment level of ZDDP, the zinc and phosphorus. This is a special ZDDP ester with a low level of sulfur. A cold-start anti-friction/anti-wear additive containing a boron compound may be added. The Tin is usually tin napthenate or Tin dithiocarbamate (DTC), another anti-friction component. Mobil uses a Titanium DTC for the same reason. A high-flash solvent is incorporated to keep all of the components in solution and to make it miscible ("mixable") with the fuel. Now if higher ester levels are used, less of this solvent is needed. Another anti-wear/anti-galling component, that also is used to thicken the film, is a polyisobutylene Group V base oil. A small amount of a sodium compound is used to inhibit rust on the steel components. Not seen in analysis is something called a dimercapto 1.3.4 thiadiazole compound, an anti-corrosion additive. The last component that is used that does absolutely nothing is the Blue organic dye.
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