yeah thats the cab one. what weight of oil were they using bc as most of you know some are more "synthetic" as others as far as the supposed group III and group iv basestock...for some reason i couldnt find the test results.. i was too busy looking at rewards stuff haha jk.... i meant "sucks" loosely. and i was just talking about the high iron content thats all. everything else is pretty good. is it worth the price?? some say yes some say no... to me the iron numbers are high for such an expensive oil. to me i can get the same protection in 5k mile intervals with a good conventional. yeah might get some varnish but that can easliy be cleaned out. as far as sludge goes as long as you dont overheat and change the oil as you should, you shouldnt ever have a problem (this doesnt include motors that natrually sludge in which i would deff run a syn or a blend)
Dino + Additive vs. Synthetic
- Thread starter leebae
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There were three engines involved in the test. M1 would've used whatever weight was spec'd for each particular engine, or surely the third party, et al, would've cried foul. And what wgts are there to choose from - 0w20, 5w30, 10w30 and 15w50. Not much room for deception here.
I respect your concern on the high iron wear. I haven't yet pushed the learning curve on what is/is not "high" for iron. From my understanding so far, there's "high" iron wear that can have your engine smoking in 200k, and there's "high" iron wear such that your car's electronics will dry rot long before you have a smoke issue. If a consistent stream of UOAs indicate M1 is of the former wear type, I will join the first "anything but M1" group that I can find. Presently it's still a top shelf oil in my book.
I respect your concern on the high iron wear. I haven't yet pushed the learning curve on what is/is not "high" for iron. From my understanding so far, there's "high" iron wear that can have your engine smoking in 200k, and there's "high" iron wear such that your car's electronics will dry rot long before you have a smoke issue. If a consistent stream of UOAs indicate M1 is of the former wear type, I will join the first "anything but M1" group that I can find. Presently it's still a top shelf oil in my book.
yeah but you can find those high iron levels here on bitog!! they dont specify which syn whether its regular or EP but they are on here. and you will see coments on how high the iron is compared to others
my guess is that the 15k mile mobile 1 syn would be a better choice over all. it has 50% more stuff.. i wouldnt run it 15k miles but i would deff run it 7500 miles on a good filter like pureone, wix or somethign of that nature
In testing that we have done, vehicles service that avoids cold starts and cycles of running from cold to normal oil temp is where a lot of wear occurs, do better on a uoa than vehicles that are startedup run for a while, cool down and are started up and driven again. Sounds kind of like commuting doesn't it? Mobil posted a good performance, but unless you drive a cab you might not get the info you need for your situation. An idling warm engine does not produce the wear numbers than an engine produces while warming up. The warmup period, in our testing showed more wear that then start up. This test shows that if you drive a lot in warm weather, it will do the job.
lonnie... what type of mobil did you guys test?? got pics? any added info? most people do not drive like taxi drivers so buying the 15k mile syn may not be right for you. kind of what you said..its assuring to know that it works well out to 15k miles..they didnt say if they changed the filter too or used the same ones. on the web site it says that you can use the same high end filter
I've seen several of these tests and in one that was run at 15k with Mobil 1 they changed the filter at 5k intervals and added makeup oil.
We tested just plain Mobil 1 5w-20 vs Motorcraft 5w-20 and to be fair to M1 we only went to 5 and 7.5k miles. Problem is warranty reqt's and the shorter interval gets the cars in for maintenance and safety checks. In fleet service longer intervals bring on too many problems because other items get skipped. I do 5k intervals because I take the time to check everything out, and do other maintenance chores. I think that having a safe car is very important.
We tested just plain Mobil 1 5w-20 vs Motorcraft 5w-20 and to be fair to M1 we only went to 5 and 7.5k miles. Problem is warranty reqt's and the shorter interval gets the cars in for maintenance and safety checks. In fleet service longer intervals bring on too many problems because other items get skipped. I do 5k intervals because I take the time to check everything out, and do other maintenance chores. I think that having a safe car is very important.
M1 is under my microscope on iron wear. Will see how it plays out on BITOG and on my Sienna's next UOA.
Really wanting to find out if M1 0w40 has any "issues" here. It's the next oil in my mother's car and is a top candidate for the future for my van.
Really wanting to find out if M1 0w40 has any "issues" here. It's the next oil in my mother's car and is a top candidate for the future for my van.
what weight are you runnin in the sienna? and let me know when you post i would love to read it.. there arnent that many mobile 1 syn uoa's on here
Check out my microscopic analysis of iron wear with M1 0W-40. I'm pretty sure that some oil analysis labs don't want you to know such things...that what they are measuring for wear is not close to the entire amount of wear that occured. Particle sizes of wear particles varies depending on what oil is used. Some wear particles are from micro-corrosion and those are very small and will be accurately measured in UOAs.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post915575
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post915575
Sienna is '98 and quickly approaching 140k miles. Owned since 62k miles. Nothing but M1. Presently EP 5w30. But with this (and with reg. 10w30) it's consuming 1 Qt in first 1k and then 1 Qt in subsequent (approx.) 1.7 k. Thus I topped off last time w/ 1 qt M1 0w40 and will continue to top off w/ 0w40 till UOA to see if consumption slows - if it does, I'm heading to 0w40. My trust level for 0w40 going 1 yr is very high (higher than M1s other lines).
If higher wgt has no affect on consumption I'm actually flirting w/ switching to M1 0w20. If 0w20 sounds crazy, I'll explain the method to my madness another day. I would do a dipstick 4.2k OCI (apples to apples w/ my last EP UOA) to chk my madness. I'm thinking though the 0w40 may help consumption and it will be my future.
If higher wgt has no affect on consumption I'm actually flirting w/ switching to M1 0w20. If 0w20 sounds crazy, I'll explain the method to my madness another day. I would do a dipstick 4.2k OCI (apples to apples w/ my last EP UOA) to chk my madness. I'm thinking though the 0w40 may help consumption and it will be my future.
BTW, I do about 15k/yr, so my 1 yr OCIs will truly test M1's claims. And this may be one of them if this next UOA comes thru good. This is not a taxi test, but the '98 Sienna is known for breaking lesser oils.
That was the right impression. Sorry, I know the thread has moved on but just wanted to add my
I'll go home now.
35 years ago my boss (35 years at mobil) told me one of the first things I learned about ANY oil is that when a old oil is replaced with a "new" type, mfg of oil that it will knock loose sludge/varnish/gunk and to check filters this is still true today.
bruce
bruce
sorry more for large industrial systems but IMHO true for PCMO's trouble is to verify takes more work than most people will do.
bruce
bruce
I understand and just b/c it doesn't work for me doesn't mean anything. I just found it amazing that the only times I've seen any removal of deposits in the timing chain area of my engine was with arx in there. Before/after pics I took showed a bigger difference with maint dose of arx plus M1 did more than 5k miles with Redline.... Can arx be that different than the fluids found in high end synths? And that much better?
give it more time
search fanning corp for nalube 1006
bruce
search fanning corp for nalube 1006
bruce
cause its not a big market and there are much cheaper/better ways to do the job.
lanolin esters are NOT the end all.
bruce
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