Difference Between Euro and non-Euro Oils?

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Considering using some Lubro Moly(Liqui Moly) oils in the Civic later, perhaps next fall after my stash goes down. Mainly Euro specifications but it claims dual gas/diesel app. API-SM. I can get this one locally:

http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=AORLM2039_0058589912

ACEA A3-04/B4-04/C3-04
BMW Longlife-04
Ford WSS-M2C 917-A
MB 229.31 / 229.51
VW 502.00 / 505.00 / 505.02
BMW Longlife-98
 
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You also need to take into consideration the different systems. Euro oils (ACEA standards)are controlled by the OEM. Euro car manufacturers "own" the oil specs and oil manufacturers have to pay the car manufacturers to make the oil for those models. One reason oils in Europe are so expensive. GM is trying to do the same thing here with the Dexos spec. However, the oil manufacturers have litigated to stop them. The current system in the US in managed by API. The car manufacturers build the engines to adhere to API standards, currently designated SN for gas and CJ-4 in diesel. Any oil manufacturer capable of making it, can.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
It was you I was thinking of.
I thought that you had only used a 20 grade M1, but you've actually used a few 20 grade syns.
If your MB V-8 is happy on a 20 in the hot conditions in which you have driven it, I suspect all of the same generation would be.
How long do you run a 20 in this engine?
Congrats for having experimented with your own engine.
You seem to have had good results.





I drove the car to Vegas in 3-4 summers, the ambient temperature was as high as 128F while going up long 10-12 miles steep hills of about 7-10 degree at more than 90 MPH, the coolant temp was around 200-205F with xW20 and it was 215-220F with M1 0W40. I think thinner oil remove heat faster than thicker oil therefore coolant temperature is with similar driving conditions.

The OCI is with xW20 is the same with M1 0W40 at 10-12 months/11-13k miles. The cartridge oil filter didn't have any debris with either oil at OCI.

As of now, all the oils in my stash are various brand xW20, I have PU and Synpower 5W20 and M1 0W20 only.






Again dude? how many times are you going to tell the same story? I know it by heart
 
Originally Posted By: steve20

Again dude? how many times are you going to tell the same story? I know it by heart

That's great. Keep in mind there is 30,000 other BITOG members. Not everyone reads every single thread.
 
Originally Posted By: steve20

Again dude? how many times are you going to tell the same story? I know it by heart

Okay ! Never mention thin/thick oil in my E430 again. My experience with thinner oil than spec'ed is of no benefit for anyone else.

Sorry to bore you to death with my experience.
 
Originally Posted By: DFrost
Why is there often a distinction between European and non-Euro oils?

Why would two seemingly similar engines (in my case, a former VW/Audi 2.0T DI and a Hyundai/Kia 2.0T DI) have different oil needs? Obviously there are differences in design details, but both would appear to put the same stress on their lubricant in similar vehicles when driven similarly.

I'm only asking this in one forum, since many of the BITOG seniors contribute to both forums.
Euro oils are built around extended drain intervals.
 
No one has mentioned they have low sulfated ash, phosphorus and sulfur content for vehicles that meet Euro IV & V emission standards.
From my understanding this & the extended drain intervals are what they're all about.
The latest Ford Transit has 30,000km (18mi) service intervals
shocked.gif
We ran Castrol 5w30 A1 or A5 in them. Can't remember which now as I don't work at Ford any more.
 
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I drove the car to Vegas in 3-4 summers, the ambient temperature was as high as 128F while going up long 10-12 miles steep hills of about 7-10 degree at more than 90 MPH, the coolant temp was around 200-205F with xW20 and it was 215-220F with M1 0W40. I think thinner oil remove heat faster than thicker oil therefore coolant temperature is with similar driving conditions.
First time I've read the story, but...
But what you describe says nothing about the strength of the oil film protecting your engine parts. I'd prefer a 220° 40 wt oil film to a 205° 20 wt oil film to protect heavily loaded parts every day of the week. And, of course, we do not know the actual temperature of the oil in the bearings, except that is is not those temperatures. The principle remains the same.
 
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
Many European, especially German, crankcases are bigger/hold more oil hence the longer drain intervals.




And fleece oil filters. This is why I dont believe in long drain intervals on most cars. Unless it is like above.^^^^^ JMO
 
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