Dealing with step inline without smoking transmission or brakes on an SUV

Pretty wild.

First, I wouldn’t beat myself up for finding them smoking at the bottom without being aware. Back in the day, the pedal would start to fade first, and that was the warning that it was time to take action *now*. With the newer vehicles, it seems that smoke comes before pedal fade. I’ve not had a faded pedal since 1996, but I’ve absolutely encountered smoking brakes and used the visuals to help me learn the limit for that vehicle.



That dark blue/black is … I’ve never seen anything like it. And you had to put some miles on it with brake engagement before pulling it - why isn’t it shiny silver!? I’m not an expert, but I’ll posit that it has changed temper, and should be replaced.

The Element3 pads took some heat, didn’t they? OP says he returned to service but there was visual evidence of beginning material separation from the back plate. Me, I’d replace them, though frankly most folks would probably just keep using all of it.

Note, newer E3 pads are being noted as lesser quality. I’ll suggest akebono ASP (not ACT) as a good pad comparable with the E3. The E3 has minorly better pad feel, but the ASP is by my limited experience an excellent pad. (ACT is a lower friction pad, most likely very close to oem).

Bleed the fluid…

Well in time, I will on year 3 of these Raybestos Element 3 rotors and pad, as the vehicle still brakes fine I want to get a least 1 more year of our them.

condition of the brakes when I pulled the calipers off :
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This is the 2 second year I clean up the rotors , use a grinder with an 80 grits sanding disk the knock down the lips that form on the outer and inner edges. when I pressure wash the entire thing to knock down as much dirt / rust from the inside. these rotor still had 28.5 mm of thickness so not yet at the discard point.

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As primitively as methods are the SUV brake just fine, You'd think the brakes would pulstate not at all. I did re-bed them after reinstalling all the cleaned parts. As for the brake bleed I do the full Techstream ABS bleed , 1h30 process is a pain did it last fall, I'll do that next year.

For the next set of rotors I would try the EBC premium but can't find them in Canada.
On my shortlist I have, BOSCH C1324501479 Rotors with QuietCast Ceramic Pads or POWER STOP CRK5828 Geomet Coated Rotors . But the geo coasted Raybestos rotors did not do much.

Next time I have to do an full stop when I suspect I have burning hot brakes I'm just going to stop decelerate in a lower gear and hold the vehicle with the parking brake, this Toyota has the old style shoe in drum. No way the rears are going be read hot on the inside of the drum. ( I think)
 
Still on the front Raybestos rotor and pads, braking is fine , a slight pulsation can be felt while braking hard.

I now how my next of rotors on hand. going the Bosch route, RockAuto had a nice discount, strange that the pads and front rotors individually where less expensive than the Front Rotor and Pad kit they had on sale.

1st observation : made in china ! why does it seem like every rotor in NA comes from China ! Wonder if Bosch just slaps it's name on a generic rotor like most other companies seem to do.
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the pads look decent, hardware of better quality than the Raybestos kit I had before. These are made in Mexico.

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I'll install them next summer, its winter here.
 
There is nothing really you can do going up the hill. Maybe set the tranny to the lower gear to prevent it from gear hunting, that’s about it.

Going down however, I’m pretty sure the down hill “assist” is what smoked your brakes.
Maybe we are talking about different things? My downhill assist downshifts on my ford flex using the engine to brake. Having a fully loaded ford flex going down penciltucky hills and mountains really stresses the brakes.
 
Still on the front Raybestos rotor and pads, braking is fine , a slight pulsation can be felt while braking hard.

I now how my next of rotors on hand. going the Bosch route, RockAuto had a nice discount, strange that the pads and front rotors individually where less expensive than the Front Rotor and Pad kit they had on sale.

1st observation : made in china ! why does it seem like every rotor in NA comes from China ! Wonder if Bosch just slaps it's name on a generic rotor like most other companies seem to do.
View attachment 252884

the pads look decent, hardware of better quality than the Raybestos kit I had before. These are made in Mexico.

View attachment 252885I'll install them next summer, its winter here.
What caliper pin grease did you use and how often did you grease ?
 
Maybe we are talking about different things? My downhill assist downshifts on my ford flex using the engine to brake. Having a fully loaded ford flex going down penciltucky hills and mountains really stresses the brakes.
Some vehicles will not only downshift, but also apply brakes without driver's input. These systems can overheat the brakes if the driver is not paying attention.
 
Some vehicles will not only downshift, but also apply brakes without driver's input. These systems can overheat the brakes if the driver is not paying attention.
That sounds to be mildly put horrifying. Is there an easy way to disable this? Honestly this sounds like a recipe for disaster in the Rockies and blue ridge.
 
When climbing or descending, the best results in load on the car will be in a gear that is 1:1 or greater. I do not know the trans ratios of your transmission, and I am not going to search it for you.......but, best to stay out of an over drive gear in the mountains.

In simpliest terms, choose a gear with a number greater than 1, you need to know the ratios of your tranny.
 
That sounds to be mildly put horrifying. Is there an easy way to disable this? Honestly this sounds like a recipe for disaster in the Rockies and blue ridge.
From my understanding it's mostly implemented when on cruise control or adaptive cruise. So turn off the cruise control or adaptive cruise and take control yourself at least during the descents.
 
Little trick, downhill.. downshift so the engine is in Deceleration Fuel Cut Off. 2500-3500 rpms. Turn the AC on, creates extra drag, you'll notice it.
 
I realize OP was July but I have never understood hill descent control. It has to use the brakes, but the whole point of gear reduction ‐‐ and low range in the case of my JLUR -- is to NOT use the brakes.

Also I think some are confusing HDC with a "decel" mode in a transmission, often used when cruise is on to prevent runaway on momentary descents or in tow/haul. They were able to implement transmission "decel" even before brake systems came about that could deliberately apply brakes (note initial ABS actually removed braking in short bursts)

Compression braking = good. Allowing vehicle to fry the brakes with HDC = bad.

That's my take from living in the Rockies all my life
 
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