Cutting a small angle across wide 2x material

2) still not visualizing how to do it with one cut. Maybe with two?
You should cut each 2X12 individually and then stack them. You would of course cut them on their flat side, so any skill saw should be able to make each cut.

You can more accurately follow a fence than you can follow a line. So clamp down (or even screw down) a fence to act as a guide for the edge of the skill saw (offset from the desired cut by the distance from the blade to the edge of the base plate). Then you run one edge of the skill saw's base plate up against the fence as you cut.

Most skill saws have a motor sticking out to one side. So if you're using clamps to hold the fence the motor will run up against the clamps. So you cut in the direction where the motor is on the open side (and not sticking out into the clamps).
 
You should cut each 2X12 individually and then stack them. You would of course cut them on their flat side, so any skill saw should be able to make each cut.

You can more accurately follow a fence than you can follow a line. So clamp down (or even screw down) a fence to act as a guide for the edge of the skill saw (offset from the desired cut by the distance from the blade to the edge of the base plate). Then you run one edge of the skill saw's base plate up against the fence as you cut.

Most skill saws have a motor sticking out to one side. So if you're using clamps to hold the fence the motor will run up against the clamps. So you cut in the direction where the motor is on the open side (and not sticking out into the clamps).
That works well for a bevel. But he wants to make a wedge across the face.
 
What is the purpose of the cut wood?
a 15Degree angle cut would be fragile and almost 6" long.

Edit: posting before coffee = assumed it was for car ramps 🤣
It is for car ramps.

15 degrees may be too small an angle. Yeah it would be fragile at the very end but I’m not concerned about that.

The angle may grow somewhat. But I want it smaller than 45 which is what I’ve made in the past.


So how does the 12 feet come into play? Just because too hard to handle on a table saw for example?

I have some 12 foot pieces that I sometimes pull the car onto. The intent would be to be able to go at least two-high in this stack-up, so three inches off the ground, fully supported, suspension loaded properly.

This is a bevel cut across the width - like a 12” wide wedge. I don’t think a saw of any kind will work for that on a 2x12”.

I would scribe the angle you want on the sides. Mark it well.

Method 1. Grab a portable power plane and set it for about 1/8” depth of cut, and start cutting your bevel by going across the face of the bevel. A bit at a time. As you approach your scribe lines, smaller cuts, perhaps 1/16” going down the face of your bevel to get it spot on.

You could rough the cut with a sawzall, with a stiff blade, going slow but cut 1/2” shy of your scribe lines and then clean it up with the plane.

Method 2. If you don’t have a power plane - go old school. Set your circular saw at 90 degrees and set it to cut to the depth of your scribe lines every 1/4”. Cut across the face of your bevel. Reset the depth, cut the next slot. Then repeat until you’re at the top of the bevel (full board thickness).

When you’re done - from the side, it will look like a comb, lots of parallel slots. Each one going down from face of your board to the face of your intended plane. Now, get a large chisel, and chisel those pieces off using the depth of the slots as your guide and then chisel down (or belt sander) to your intended plane surface.

Here’s what I mean:

View attachment 296417
I’ve used that before on various structural projects. It makes total sense to do this and then just knock it out with a hammer and chisel. Easy enough to finish up from there.

I do have a power plane but thought it would be too inconsistent. I might use it to smooth everything up in the end, tbd. These don’t need to be perfect, but I’d like them to be reasonably consistent. Thanks!!
 
Sawzall. Your tires won't complain much.

I figured you were doing some sort of trim work.
Thing with the sawzall is that a longer blade can get floppy, and holding the unit at an angle may get imprecise.

But it’s an option I had considered. I think I’ll do the knock out method when the time comes.
 
make a plywood template to get your angles right, clamp or tack it in place. rough cut wit hand saw, then corded hand planer to finish?
 
I think you can get pretty close to your desired angle by cutting a bevel on a 24 " long 2X8 at the maximum angle you can achieve with your skill saw, then clamping it (or screwing it down at the edge farthest from your cut) straight across the 2X12 with about 6"sticking off on either side. Then using the cut edge of the cross clamped 2X8 as the base, make a further beveled cut.

You stick the 2X8 off on either side so you have a starting place for your skill saw. You screw it down along the far edge so as not to hit the screws with your skill saw when making the final cut..

You'd have to play around with this but I think you can make this work. Make sure everything is clamped down really well before you make that final cut.
 
I think you can get pretty close to your desired angle by cutting a bevel on a 24 " long 2X8 at the maximum angle you can achieve with your skill saw, then clamping it (or screwing it down at the edge farthest from your cut) straight across the 2X12 with about 6"sticking off on either side. Then using the cut edge of the cross clamped 2X8 as the base, make a further beveled cut.

You stick the 2X8 off on either side so you have a starting place for your skill saw. You screw it down along the far edge so as not to hit the screws with your skill saw when making the final cut..

You'd have to play around with this but I think you can make this work. Make sure everything is clamped down really well before you make that final cut.
You can get the angle, but unless the Skilsaw has a 5 3/4” depth of cut, you’re not getting the cut all the way across the 2x12”. He’s making a wedge across the wide face for a car ramp, not a bevel for framing.

Still, two good kerfs at the desired angle would allow you to get a good crosscut handsaw started and on track.

Clean up with the plane.
 
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