Coyote 5.0 just hit 2k miles

[Titan]

Would Kia/Hyundai engines have been much better with a thicker oil? Wasn't that more of a design problem than an oil problem? 100% agree the average 0w20's seem to be better than the average 5w20's. By the way, I'd rather have an engine called "Roadrunner" than one called "Coyote"....

 

[KCJeep]

No oil will save the problematic HyKIA engines.

 

[ZeeOSix]

By the way, I'd rather have an engine called "Roadrunner" than one called "Coyote"....

The 2012-2013 Mustang Boss 302 engine with 444 HP is called "Roadrunner".

 

[thastinger]

I'm kinda the opposite. 5-50 is what is recommended for my 13 GT500, but I run either 5-30 or 0-40 in it. Same thing for my 5.2 supercharged 2V motor.

 

[Truck-Guy]

Just under 5k miles. About to change it up a little.

Interesting video on filters, why I chose the Purolator.

 

[Truck-Guy]

I'm kinda the opposite. 5-50 is what is recommended for my 13 GT500, but I run either 5-30 or 0-40 in it. Same thing for my 5.2 supercharged 2V motor.

I get it, 5w-50 shears rather quickly.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Interesting video on filters, why I chose the Purolator.

Guess you've missed all the other talk about all the conflicting efficiency data on the Boss. These kind of "testing" YT videos somehow become gospel info that over-rides all the official specs.

 

[Foxtrot08]

5W-30 is a good grade for Coyote street use. Don't need anything thicker than that. Track use is a different story.

If you're doing a bunch of heavy extended towing you might consider a xW-40. Does this truck have a decent oil temperature gauge? It should have some kind of factory oil cooler on it.

A lot of people tend to track mustangs that don’t have oil coolers. Important fact. This leads to the overheating issues.

My 2024 S650 GT performance pack, never has gotten above 197F no matter how hard I beat it. I’m also running redline in. (Anti shill notice: It’s free for me, you don’t have to run it.) and yes - 5w30 euro.

I don’t particular think you need to go up grades. Maybe if you whipple it and are running it hard?

On the other hand, my S550 Bullitt edition the water will get hot, which in turn causes the oil to get hotter. It’s because it has a smaller antifreeze sump than normal track models.

 

[ZeeOSix]

On the other hand, my S550 Bullitt edition the water will got hot, which in turn causes the oil to get hotter. It’s because it has a smaller antifreeze sump than normal track models.

Does the Bullitt have the larger radiator that the Track Pack GT gets? That's what's needed to help the engines that only have a coolant-to-oil cooler working more efficiently. Obviously, hard used track cars should have both a coolant-to-oil cooler and also a secondary air-to-oil cooler.

 

[Foxtrot08]

Does the Bullitt have the larger radiator and extra oil cooler that the Track Pack GT gets? That's what's needed to help the engines that only have a coolant-to-oil cooler working more efficiently. Obviously, hard used track cars should have both a coolant-to-oil cooler and also a secondary air-to-oil cooler.

Nope. Actually has a smaller radiator due to its front clip. So it has like a 9.7L coolant capacity vs 13 and change. Whatever that number is.

One of the reasons I got the new GT is track work. I took the Bullitt on the track a few times. Even with water wetter, topping it off to the max, etc. it still got a little hot by the end of lap 9 at mid Ohio.

The front clip is just smaller than the other S550s - especially the GT350 from the same era.


Theres a few after market fixes. But it’s sort of my “collectors” car. K0998 is my production number. I’m leaving it stock - besides changing out the lug nuts to black ones and tinting the windows.


I’ll still track it. It’s a cool car to just… drive. Open roads, windows down. I get compliments all the time on it. But, certainly not a track beast.

The S650 GT performance pack beats it in literally every way besides being the king of cool.

I sorta wanted a dork horse. But, 20k over a GT Performance? Come on ford…

 

[Foxtrot08]

Plus the SO can drive the GT because it’s an automatic. (Yes, I feel lazy.) She has a 2023 Audi Q5. But like she had to drive it last week because of a sudden “tire issue” that she had “no idea” how it happened. And it took me a day to get 2 new Michelins for her car.

Lemme tell you… for a plastic surgeon, she’s hard on cars. Her last Audi, she came home with a dent and missing the bumper light. I’m like “what happened?” “I dunno, someone hit me this morning I think…”


…..

 

[buster26]

Funny, I actually spoke with Lake Jr about his recommendations for my f150 before i picked it up. I added my own recipe a bit, but he is a nice guy and very knowledgeable.

First OCI at 500 miles. I am running 40 weight, but I am also a big fan of Ceratec’s solid modifier. Cold start protection is better than any oil I have experienced as it is not waiting on the pump. Many people love 5w-50 in this engine. It’s known to have consumption issues, especially early renditions.

I followed Lake’s advice about setting the rings and simulating dyno pulls in the first drive. So far no consumption, quiet cold starts and this truck moves pretty darn good with the 3.73 rear end. 19.6 mpg over the past 1900 miles. Just hit 2k miles. Pretty impressive. Probably about 70% highway.

These trucks have issue with the VCT solenoids and I have read oil starvation may be a root cause with slugging being the real issue. I plan on doing changes often, probably 4k miles or so depending on how dirty the oil looks. Right now 1500 miles on the oil and it’s pretty clean. Thinking oil every 4k via my evacuator and 2nd with filter every 8k. I’m also considering switching to 50 weight in the hot southern summer. Any idea how Ford feels about this? I believe they make a 5w-50, not that I would choose motorcraft oil.

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[buster26]

View attachment 277933 Grabber Blue old Ford color from 1969

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

Get some total seal piston rings

 

[Fattylocks]

You went full throttle to redline on your first drive?

 

[RevvCats]

Unless your oil temp gauge starts reading hot there’s no need to run 5w-50. You certainly can but lighter weight oils are perfectly capable of protecting your coyote, at least that’s what I’ve observed with my 2019 Mustang and I’ve done multiple 10k mile runs with 5w-20.

If you’re changing the oil ever 4k miles, which I’d bet is overkill, stick to 30 or 40 weight oil. 5w-50 tends to be significantly more expensive, NAPA runs good deals on Mobil 1 FS and Castrol Edge from time to time but generally you can get 10 quarts of good oil at Walmart for around $50.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Unless your oil temp gauge starts reading hot there’s no need to run 5w-50. You certainly can but lighter weight oils are perfectly capable of protecting your coyote, at least that’s what I’ve observed with my 2019 Mustang and I’ve done multiple 10k mile runs with 5w-20.

Ford started specifying 5W-30 for the Coyote in 2021. Engine clearances have never changed. They went up a grade for a reason, and lost CAFE credits in doing so. Most guys with a Coyote who know a little about Tribology go up to at least a 5W-30 for added wear protection.

 

[RevvCats]

Ford started specifying 5W-30 for the Coyote in 2021. Engine clearances have never changed. They went up a grade for a reason, and lost CAFE credits in doing so. Most guys with a Coyote who know a little about Tribology go up to at least a 5W-30 for added wear protection.

I’ve posted analysis results here totaling around 50k miles using various group 3 5w-20 oils, driving year round through freezing single digit winter days to 90+ summer days with no signs of any serious wear. That’s also while running extended internals which is another kettle of worms.

My most recent data was an 8k mile run with Castrol Edge EP 5w-30 and I have a similar length run using the regular Edge 5w-20 and the 30 weight maybe has ever so slightly less wear, but the 20 weight was already giving me low wear results and only burned about a quart per 10k miles.

Most 30 weight oils are only a few cSt thicker at 100C than 20 weight, and from everything I’ve seen that’s no where near the line of you’ve gone to thin and wrecked the bearings.

OP is debating running 5w-50 year round which the engine can totally do but I don’t think that’s going to do anything for them other than loose fuel economy while spending more on oil.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Most 30 weight oils are only a few cSt thicker at 100C than 20 weight, and from everything I’ve seen that’s no where near the line of you’ve gone to thin and wrecked the bearings.

Lots of engine wear studies using much more sophisticated wear measurement techniques than a $30 UOA show that the HTHS dynamic viscosity of xW-20 (~2.6 cP) is near the point where increased engine wear is starting to be seen in some engine components. My viewpoint is going up to xW-30 for any engine specifying xW-20 (especially on an engine like the 435 HP or more Coyote) is wear protection headroom. Why run near the ragged edge of increased wear when it's simple not to.

Yeah, running the 5W-50 all year isn't ideal, but good for track use. But the Boss 302 and GT500 do spec 5W-50 for all use cases. So going that thick won't hurt if that's what someone wants to do.

 

[FlyingTexan]

Funny, I actually spoke with Lake Jr about his recommendations for my f150 before i picked it up. I added my own recipe a bit, but he is a nice guy and very knowledgeable.

First OCI at 500 miles. I am running 40 weight, but I am also a big fan of Ceratec’s solid modifier. Cold start protection is better than any oil I have experienced as it is not waiting on the pump. Many people love 5w-50 in this engine. It’s known to have consumption issues, especially early renditions.

I followed Lake’s advice about setting the rings and simulating dyno pulls in the first drive. So far no consumption, quiet cold starts and this truck moves pretty darn good with the 3.73 rear end. 19.6 mpg over the past 1900 miles. Just hit 2k miles. Pretty impressive. Probably about 70% highway.

These trucks have issue with the VCT solenoids and I have read oil starvation may be a root cause with slugging being the real issue. I plan on doing changes often, probably 4k miles or so depending on how dirty the oil looks. Right now 1500 miles on the oil and it’s pretty clean. Thinking oil every 4k via my evacuator and 2nd with filter every 8k. I’m also considering switching to 50 weight in the hot southern summer. Any idea how Ford feels about this? I believe they make a 5w-50, not that I would choose motorcraft oil.

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I’ve used motorkote and feel it’s what’s saved my engine