Recommend an Xw40 equivalent to Valvoline Restore and Protect

[OM617YOTA]

1998 Chevy K3500 with the 7.4l Vortec. 180k miles.

When diagnosing some cold start piston slap I pulled the valve covers and found a lot more sludge than I'd like. I've had the truck several years but only a few thousand miles and a couple oil changes.

Spec is 5w30 and that's what I've previously run. Cold oil pressure 60psi, warm idle oil pressure ~10psi and bouncing, jumping to 50-60psi with any RPMs at all. This last oil change I used up a bunch of random partial bottles and it got a couple versions of 5w30, some 5w40, and topped off with a decent chunk of 15w40. With this frankenbrew, everything stayed the same except warm idle oil pressure is now ~20+psi and steady, which I like a whole lot better.

I'd like to get the cleaning benefit of Valvoline Restore and Protect, while still keeping the better idle oil pressure when warm. I don't care about varnish or discolored metal, not looking for a spotless engine interior, just want to get rid of the sludge. Doesn't burn any oil.

I'm also not in any particular hurry. If normal oil changes with any good Xw40 will take care of the sludge, I'm fine with that even if it takes years at the ~2k miles/yr it gets. Absent the sludge issue it'd probably be getting the XSP 5w40 we all stocked up on next, and whatever Xw40 euro or HDEO is least expensive after that.

Thank you for any recommendations.

Edit: Coldest start in the winter will be ~15F, up to ~105F in the summer. Doesn't get enough miles for me to want to change between different summer/winter oils.

 

[shortyb]

If you lived in Australia, you'd be in luck as they have a 40wt. Valvoline Restore and Protect there. Here in 'Merica, I'd do HPL Engine Cleaner with Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. Or just run the Mobil 1 by itself and see what it does.

 

[JohnnyG]

Valvoline Restore and Protect is not really designed to remove sludge from and engine, let alone cure any piston clearance issues.
There are several "cleaning" oils on the market, like anything with PAO, such as Mobil 1 0W-40, all the way up to Amsoil products specifically designed to clean engines.

If, however you want to experiment with Valvoline Restore and Protect to help with your sludge issue, just use it as an additive and include it with your XW-40 oil.
Who knows, it might work .

 

[OM617YOTA]

Valvoline Restore and Protect is not really designed to remove sludge from and engine, let alone cure any piston clearance issues.
There are several "cleaning" oils on the market, like anything with PAO, such as Mobil 1 0W-40, all the way up to Amsoil products specifically designed to clean engines.

If, however you want to experiment with Valvoline Restore and Protect to help with your sludge issue, just use it as an additive and include it with your XW-40 oil.
Who knows, it might work .

Oh yeah, no oil is going to fix any mechanical issue. No expectation that it would, just hoping to clean sludge.

Thanks for the recommendation.

 

[GI_GRIFF]

As far as cleaning goes, this stuff will work in time, it's cheap too. You can use it at every oil change forever if you want to in old or new engines. The proper mix ratio is 10% of your oil capacity. HPL makes a special cleaning oil and there is also stuff that BG Products makes, both are better or at least quicker, and pricier. This cheap Rislone stuff does work if you live long enough to see the results! LOL!

https://rislone.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/4102-PDS-3.pdf

 

[RDMgr]

Valvoline Restore and Protect is not really designed to remove sludge from and engine, let alone cure any piston clearance issues.
There are several "cleaning" oils on the market, like anything with PAO, such as Mobil 1 0W-40, all the way up to Amsoil products specifically designed to clean engines.

If, however you want to experiment with Valvoline Restore and Protect to help with your sludge issue, just use it as an additive and include it with your XW-40 oil.
Who knows, it might work .

Based on aniline point, PAO has the lowest solvency of the common engine oil fluids. The higher the AP, the lower the solvency.

Approximate aniline points for the common base fluids in °C are:

GRP 1 100
GRP 2 115
GRP 3 115
PAO 130
Ester 82 (Priolube 3970 which is commonly used as a co-solvent in PAO based EOs)
ANs 90

 

[Wheel366]

Start with HPL Engine Cleaner and them maybe move onto their regular line. Supposed to be awesome at cleaning sludge. And after it is cleaned up, maybe some Valvoline Restore and Protect for any ring build up.

 

[Bryanccfshr]

off the shelf Mobil 1 fs 0w40 fs will meet your viscosity needs and help clean up the engine minus the rings. While running out see if valvoline releases any 40 wt versions in North America. Or a3 versions for old German cars. A Valvoline Restore and Protect “euro car” would be nice.

 

[Japanese]

ANs 90

I'm sorry, but what is AN? I've came across that acronym several times already.
Also, what is AP?
Thanks a lot!

 

[JavierH19]

I'm sorry, but what is AN? I've came across that acronym several times already.
Also, what is AP?
Thanks a lot!

Alkylated naphthalene and alkylated phenol I believe unless i've confused it with something else. Both talked about quite a bit before. Searching the terms yields good threads on the subject.

 

[Ericm]

1998 Chevy K3500 with the 7.4l Vortec. 180k miles....

Since you may not mind mixing oil grades; If the engine holds 7 qts, another idea is mixing 6 qts Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30 + 1 qt of Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic 20w50. Starting visc: cSt@100*C approx. 12.2 (or 5 qts + 2 qts gives approx. 13.7 cSt).

 

[Japanese]

Thank you for any recommendations.

Since you may not mind mixing oil grades; If the engine holds 7 qts, another idea is mixing 6 qts Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30 + 1 qt of Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic 20w50.

Yes, you can mix 50/50 Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 and Advanced 20W-50 for about 10W-40/15W-40 viscosity at least on theory.

Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30
KV (kinematic viscosity) at 100°C: 10.8 cSt
KV at 40°C: 64 cSt
https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...379f19f8/ffdb3f9b-e06d-ee11-b828-48df379f19f8

Advanced 20W-50
KV at 100°C: 21.4 cSt
KV at 40°C: 175 cSt
https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...2d889bd1/b545b08d-9553-ea11-9c34-ac162d889bd1

Viscosity calculator for mixing different viscosities:
https://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Mixtures.html

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Yes, you can mix 50/50 Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 and Advanced 20W-50 for about 10W-40/15W-40 viscosity at least on theory.

No, the winter rating doesn’t work that way. Depending on how much you mix of each, the resulting winter rating can never be lower than the worst-rated oil; in this case you’d end up with anything from a 20w30 to a 20w50, with a 50/50 mix giving a 20w40 most likely.

The winter rating is due to the temp at which wax crystals begin to form in the base oil; the 20w50 base oil will always exhibit the same winter performance even if diluted with a lower winter rating. It’s been covered several times here by folks smarter than me.

 

[Japanese]

The winter rating is due to the temp at which wax crystals begin to form in the base oil; the 20w50 base oil will always exhibit the same winter performance even if diluted with a lower winter rating. It’s been covered several times here by folks smarter than me.

In that case Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30, 5W-30 or Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W-40 would be the better choice then, or just straight Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. I think the Mobil 1 ESP series would do better cleaning job than Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W-40.

 

[ka9mnx]

Actually, it sounds like your engine is in fairly good condition. And approaching 30 years old! I wouldn't worry about it but, if mine, I would start, and continue using, Mobil 1 FS Euro 0w-40. It may clean things up, a little. Mobil 1 ESP 0w-30 is another choice but 0w-40 would be my choice.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Thanks folks.

I definitely want to stick with a Xw40 oil, looking like Mobil 0w40 will be the next candidate. Might run an OCI or two and see what things look like, then add a dose of HPL's 40w EC if it seems necessary.

Is there a cleaning difference between 0w40 euro oil and 0w40 ESP?

How would the Delo XSP 5w40 we all stocked up on work? Happy to buy Mobil, but I have the XSP already.

 

[OM617YOTA]

No, the winter rating doesn’t work that way. Depending on how much you mix of each, the resulting winter rating can never be lower than the worst-rated oil; in this case you’d end up with anything from a 20w30 to a 20w50, with a 50/50 mix giving a 20w40 most likely.

The winter rating is due to the temp at which wax crystals begin to form in the base oil; the 20w50 base oil will always exhibit the same winter performance even if diluted with a lower winter rating. It’s been covered several times here by folks smarter than me.

If that's the case then my frankenbrew mix is a 15wXX and I need to get that out of there before the weather goes truly cold. (Cue Canadians and midwesterners laughing at the idea of 15f being cold.)

Thank you for the heads up. Will be doing another oil change this weekend.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Alrighty, wrapping this one up.

This past weekend the truck got an oil + filter change with 0w40 Mobil 1 Euro and an AC Delco filter. Hot oil pressure now ~18psi when idling and steady, perfectly acceptable. Any RPM and oil pressure goes to 50+ psi. Works for me.

Bought two 5 quart jugs, wouldn't you know when stashing the partial jug I found two gallons of Mobil 5w40 ESP, which also would have been just fine. Woops.

Frankenbrew coming out was ridiculously dirty for having been in the engine less than 100 miles. Hoping that means it was cleaning.

Starting transcribing my paper notes into a spreadsheet and found I've been driving it a lot less than I thought. Bought in August of 2021 with ~174k miles on it. Now has 180k miles on it, so closer to ~1200 miles/year. Probably change oil yearly instead of every couple years.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Impatient]

Alrighty, wrapping this one up.

This past weekend the truck got an oil + filter change with 0w40 Mobil 1 Euro and an AC Delco filter. Hot oil pressure now ~18psi when idling and steady, perfectly acceptable. Any RPM and oil pressure goes to 50+ psi. Works for me.

Bought two 5 quart jugs, wouldn't you know when stashing the partial jug I found two gallons of Mobil 5w40 ESP, which also would have been just fine. Woops.

Frankenbrew coming out was ridiculously dirty for having been in the engine less than 100 miles. Hoping that means it was cleaning.

Starting transcribing my paper notes into a spreadsheet and found I've been driving it a lot less than I thought. Bought in August of 2021 with ~174k miles on it. Now has 180k miles on it, so closer to ~1200 miles/year. Probably change oil yearly instead of every couple years.

Thanks for all the help.

So maybe you’ve heard of HPL (High Performance Lubricants). Expensive stuff, but maybe useful to you. Totally oriented toward cleaning an engine of sludge/carbon. Maybe take advantage of their T-day/Black Friday type sale to buy some. You could start with their Engine Cleaner (EC) available in either 30 wt or 40 wt. add a quart or 2 to your new fill (which of course means draining the same amount of the Mobil 1), then follow with a full fill of their regular PCMO oil (or their more deluxe versions if so inclined). You could keep that PCMO in for years at your usage level, maybe changing out the filter (which might clog up with all the cleaning) and topping up annually (at most at your usage levels). Many here consider this the best oil out there today, with extra-extra amounts of additives to clean, and to protect/reduce wear.

Sorry, I know it sounds like I am a fanboy, but I am one of many, actually less so, given the cost / benefit in different types of engines.

It’s possible you could skip the EC and go straight to their full-on PCMO (which has even more cleaning ability), which might mix favorably with the Mobil 1 you just filled. call them, or email, ask for Dave Ward or Dave Canitz. They can give you a better plan than I am able to.

Just be aware, if it loosens the sludge, that sludge must go somewhere (ie into the filter), so you must watch that, more than the oil “wearing out.”

 

[OM617YOTA]

So maybe you’ve heard of HPL (High Performance Lubricants). Expensive stuff, but maybe useful to you. Totally oriented toward cleaning an engine of sludge/carbon. Maybe take advantage of their T-day/Black Friday type sale to buy some. You could start with their Engine Cleaner (EC) available in either 30 wt or 40 wt. add a quart or 2 to your new fill (which of course means draining the same amount of the Mobil 1), then follow with a full fill of their regular PCMO oil (or their more deluxe versions if so inclined). You could keep that PCMO in for years at your usage level, maybe changing out the filter (which might clog up with all the cleaning) and topping up annually (at most at your usage levels). Many here consider this the best oil out there today, with extra-extra amounts of additives to clean, and to protect/reduce wear.

Sorry, I know it sounds like I am a fanboy, but I am one of many, actually less so, given the cost / benefit in different types of engines.

It’s possible you could skip the EC and go straight to their full-on PCMO (which has even more cleaning ability), which might mix favorably with the Mobil 1 you just filled. call them, or email, ask for Dave Ward or Dave Canitz. They can give you a better plan than I am able to.

Just be aware, if it loosens the sludge, that sludge must go somewhere (ie into the filter), so you must watch that, more than the oil “wearing out.”

Definitely heard of HPL. No doubt it's fantastic engine oil, if one is going for absolute highest oil performance then likely it's the best available.

Unless one is chasing maximum oil life using used oil analysis, I just don't think HPL pencils out in most applications. Certainly not this one.