Something you just can't find in Europe...almost impossible to find good 10W30, like he said.
Correct Viscosity for a Honda S2000?
- Thread starter ChristianReske
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As is stated before, i will try a thin, fully synthetic Group IV / V xxW-40 Oil. As Honda states in the Manual that a -40 weight is also O.K., i think it is save to use and give the engine a little bit of extra protection.
I dont want to brag around, i dont want to annoy you, i dont want to beat a dead horse, but going along on the Autobahn with cruisng speed of 160 kmh / 100 Mph, the engine does 6.000 RPM in 6. Gear.
After 20 Minutes you start to think about piston speed, oil temp at the piston, gremlins in the engine.... I fully trust the Honda engineeers, but.....
Of course, i dont do this often, the S2000 is build for bendy country roads. We dont have speed controls here cross-country, we have some very lonesome rural areas, so VTEC is used very often by me.
I dont buy oil online anymore, as we discoverd a serious problem with counterfeit oils here in Germany lately, especially with Shell and Mobil1. One built engine was damaged, the two lawyers of the Oil shop where VERY strict in saying that, as long as the owner of the damged engine has no proof that the oil was bought at there shop, it is better for him that he dont name the shop and that they read interent car-forums often also. According to the UOA, the counterfeit Mobil 1 oil he used was in fact a 30 weight hydraulic oil.
Heres the thread of the guy who build the engine, but without the damged engine:
http://www.golf3.de/vw-audi/117068-naumstars-golf-2-abf.html
Here is the thread In the german Oil forum about the counterfeit oils:
https://oil-club.de/index.php?thread/2039-f%C3%A4lschung-analyse-referenz-mobil-1-peak-life-5w-50/
Mobil 1 is NOT interested in solving the Problem.
I only buy my oil at local, bigger, reputable car parts store here OR by oil online in shops direct from the manufacturer.
Saving 20,-€ on a oil change vs. a damaged Honda F20 C engine: I dont have to think about it longer than a blink of a eye.
Thank you all for your helpfull input, as allways.
I dont want to brag around, i dont want to annoy you, i dont want to beat a dead horse, but going along on the Autobahn with cruisng speed of 160 kmh / 100 Mph, the engine does 6.000 RPM in 6. Gear.
After 20 Minutes you start to think about piston speed, oil temp at the piston, gremlins in the engine.... I fully trust the Honda engineeers, but.....
Of course, i dont do this often, the S2000 is build for bendy country roads. We dont have speed controls here cross-country, we have some very lonesome rural areas, so VTEC is used very often by me.
I dont buy oil online anymore, as we discoverd a serious problem with counterfeit oils here in Germany lately, especially with Shell and Mobil1. One built engine was damaged, the two lawyers of the Oil shop where VERY strict in saying that, as long as the owner of the damged engine has no proof that the oil was bought at there shop, it is better for him that he dont name the shop and that they read interent car-forums often also. According to the UOA, the counterfeit Mobil 1 oil he used was in fact a 30 weight hydraulic oil.
Heres the thread of the guy who build the engine, but without the damged engine:
http://www.golf3.de/vw-audi/117068-naumstars-golf-2-abf.html
Here is the thread In the german Oil forum about the counterfeit oils:
https://oil-club.de/index.php?thread/2039-f%C3%A4lschung-analyse-referenz-mobil-1-peak-life-5w-50/
Mobil 1 is NOT interested in solving the Problem.
I only buy my oil at local, bigger, reputable car parts store here OR by oil online in shops direct from the manufacturer.
Saving 20,-€ on a oil change vs. a damaged Honda F20 C engine: I dont have to think about it longer than a blink of a eye.
Thank you all for your helpfull input, as allways.
That's scary, fake oil. Sadly nothing new, but seems more and more frequent. Maybe I'll refrain buying oil online ? Certainly not buying anything car related from ebay, that's for sure.
Christian,
should the 10W30 be still of interest this German company seems to carry several brands in said viscosity:
https://www.ato24.de/de/all-products-10w-30-order/price-dir/asc.html
They have even Honda 10W30 oil.
https://www.ato24.de/de/honda-ultra-mild-motor-oil-sn-10w-30-4-l.html
I have bought from them in the past and everything went as advertised.
should the 10W30 be still of interest this German company seems to carry several brands in said viscosity:
https://www.ato24.de/de/all-products-10w-30-order/price-dir/asc.html
They have even Honda 10W30 oil.
https://www.ato24.de/de/honda-ultra-mild-motor-oil-sn-10w-30-4-l.html
I have bought from them in the past and everything went as advertised.
Originally Posted by ChristianReske
I dont want to brag around, i dont want to annoy you, i dont want to beat a dead horse, but going along on the Autobahn with cruisng speed of 160 kmh / 100 Mph, the engine does 6.000 RPM in 6. Gear.
After 20 Minutes you start to think about piston speed, oil temp at the piston, gremlins in the engine.... I fully trust the Honda engineeers, but.....
Valuable train of thought, yes. It's a very high spinning motor, not like VAG or typical Euro engines at all. High HTHSV at very high shear speed and low load (torque) will only generate excessive heat. Your crankpins will never see diesel or even TGDI levels of combustion forces, and so I personally would want to lock HTHS right around the 3.5cP point, to prevent excess heat generated from shear.
Wide-spread 0W40 A3 rated oils are fine synthetic products, Honda even sanctioned their usage in the absence of a proper 10W30, so you can't really go wrong. But what does the great VI, VM polymers and high TBN mean to you in your bearing journal spinning at 9K rpm.. or cruising at 6500 on the 'bahn? I personally would want an oil that is more base-stock (heavier base stock) and less VM additive, like the 10W30 Honda originally recommends. Is it really hard to find a synthetic A3 5W30 HDEO even? The full SAPS zinc would be a treat for the cams I'd imagine
I dont want to brag around, i dont want to annoy you, i dont want to beat a dead horse, but going along on the Autobahn with cruisng speed of 160 kmh / 100 Mph, the engine does 6.000 RPM in 6. Gear.
After 20 Minutes you start to think about piston speed, oil temp at the piston, gremlins in the engine.... I fully trust the Honda engineeers, but.....
Valuable train of thought, yes. It's a very high spinning motor, not like VAG or typical Euro engines at all. High HTHSV at very high shear speed and low load (torque) will only generate excessive heat. Your crankpins will never see diesel or even TGDI levels of combustion forces, and so I personally would want to lock HTHS right around the 3.5cP point, to prevent excess heat generated from shear.
Wide-spread 0W40 A3 rated oils are fine synthetic products, Honda even sanctioned their usage in the absence of a proper 10W30, so you can't really go wrong. But what does the great VI, VM polymers and high TBN mean to you in your bearing journal spinning at 9K rpm.. or cruising at 6500 on the 'bahn? I personally would want an oil that is more base-stock (heavier base stock) and less VM additive, like the 10W30 Honda originally recommends. Is it really hard to find a synthetic A3 5W30 HDEO even? The full SAPS zinc would be a treat for the cams I'd imagine
With a 9000 rpm redline, I wouldn't run anything less than a 0/40. On my '06 S I like(and run) M1 0/40 FS and my uoa's have been great. If you're running the autobahn, your running way faster(and higher rpms) than most and that causes a lot of heat in the oil and you don't want to hurt this engine. Getting real hard to find a good used short block and almost impossible to find a new one. Move up to a 0/40 like M1 FS and go out and have fun with your S
ROD
ROD
Going to go off the reservation here...
I can find a small handful of 10W30 A3/B4 in Oz...but they are blends...I'd possibly be inclined to use them in a toy.
Their 5W40 recommendation is pretty telling that they want a more robust package when they go to the 5W for starting temperature...no ILSAC grade is what that tells me...so a 5W30 A3/B4 would probably do the trick...
But where I'm headed, and it's for a toy...Honda use the same engines in their outboards as they do road going vehicles (and I'm talking the 3.5 sixes here, so bear with me)...so the engines that they require to run high revs, high load, for hours at a time....they specify and FC-W 10W30. It's not allowed to shear below 3.3 HTHS - IN SERVICE, regarding of stating HTHS.
Here's a list of FC-W (cat equipped) oils for 2017...
https://www.nmma.org/assets/cabinets/Cabinet456/2017 FC-W CAT List.pdf
2018
https://www.nmma.org/certification/oil/fc-wcat
I know that I can get at leat 2 off the list in 40 minutes drive from here
Drop the cat requirement (no probs if you aren't burning oil)...and open up to all sorts of stuff...including Honda's own Idemitsu made oil
https://www.nmma.org/certification/oil/fc-w
I can find a small handful of 10W30 A3/B4 in Oz...but they are blends...I'd possibly be inclined to use them in a toy.
Their 5W40 recommendation is pretty telling that they want a more robust package when they go to the 5W for starting temperature...no ILSAC grade is what that tells me...so a 5W30 A3/B4 would probably do the trick...
But where I'm headed, and it's for a toy...Honda use the same engines in their outboards as they do road going vehicles (and I'm talking the 3.5 sixes here, so bear with me)...so the engines that they require to run high revs, high load, for hours at a time....they specify and FC-W 10W30. It's not allowed to shear below 3.3 HTHS - IN SERVICE, regarding of stating HTHS.
Here's a list of FC-W (cat equipped) oils for 2017...
https://www.nmma.org/assets/cabinets/Cabinet456/2017 FC-W CAT List.pdf
2018
https://www.nmma.org/certification/oil/fc-wcat
I know that I can get at leat 2 off the list in 40 minutes drive from here
Drop the cat requirement (no probs if you aren't burning oil)...and open up to all sorts of stuff...including Honda's own Idemitsu made oil
https://www.nmma.org/certification/oil/fc-w
How about Castrol Edge 0w30 Dexos2? It's a Group 4 synthetic and carries a fair few approvals. It's an ACEA C3 so had a HTHS of over 3.5.
You won't see it recommended much here as it's not available outside of Europe.
You won't see it recommended much here as it's not available outside of Europe.
I had an AP2 S2000 for a number of years and happily used ACEA A3 0W-40 oils in it (M1 and Castrol usually) to no deleterious effects. My thought from hours of research was that oil technology is not where it is today when the S2000 was originally designed in the 1990's. Two decades ago, oils were not nearly as shear stable and thus the 10w-30 was specced for warmer climates to keep it from shearing out of grade. Also, this allowed the owner to run conventional oil since 10W-30 is readily found in conventional formulations but 5 or 0W-40 oils are typically synthetic. With the F20/F22 being such a gonzo engine, and with oil technology having come so far in the last two decades, I felt (and still feel) very comfortable running a quality ACEA A3 oil in that car year round regardless of climate.
Thank you all for you input!
@ Finn: Thanks. The Amsoil is the only decent 10w-30 car oil i could find, but it only have a HTHS of 3.1, therefore i dont like to use it.
@ PeterPolyol: Thank you. I know that a lot of Bitog members uses HDEO oils in gasoline engines, but as these Oils A) Not Group IV / V and B) a little bit complicated to buy for me, i dont lke to use them. The camshafts have roller followers, by the way. Hondas engineers where not cheap when they desingned this engine.
@ rrounds: Yes, used engines getting more and more scares and expenisve, I keep my fingers crossed. Thanks for sharing your expirience!
@ Shannow: Thanks, that was interesting! I never was thinking about Boat oils! I just have cheked the "usual Suspects", but the best i can get is Liqui Moly and ROWE Group III boat oil in 10w-30.
@ Bailes: My impression was Dexos = Low SAPS Diesel = Not suitable for a Engine like the Honda S2000? Am i wrong?
@ phaphaphooey: (Your nickname is hard to write, btw..
) i was thinking the same, that the oil recomendation from Honda is a little bit dated and that oils have evolved over the past two decades. Thanks for your Input.
@ all:
I will use on of the following oils:
- Shell Helix Ultra 0w-40 / 5w-40
- Castrol Edge 0w-40
Here is a VOA of the Castrol mixed with Liqui Moly Ceratec. Looks very good: https://oil-club.de/index.php?thread/64-castrol-edge-titanium-fst-0w-40-liqui-moly-ceratec/
- Motul 8100 X-Max 0w-40
- Rowe Synth RS 0w-40
- Liqui Moly Synthoil 0w-40 / 5w-40
I think i cant get wrong with one of these, and i could buy all of them locally. To deal with shear down, i will run shorter OCIs. The regular OCI of 15.000 Km / 9300 Miles that Honda specifys is a little bit to long for this engine, i think.
There are two more oils:
- Penrite 10 Tenths premium 0w-40
A little bit hard to find here in Germany. But PAO, Ester, Zinc. And the only one that claims to be "Shear free".
- Kroon Oil Polytech 5w-40
A oil from a dutch company that contains PAG (The Oil that is used in air condition compressors). The previous 10w-40 version was very well regarded in the german oil club oil forum and deliverd some very good UOAs. The company just stopped the production of the 10w-40 and changed the formulation to 5w-40, here is a VOA: https://oil-club.de/index.php?thread/4709-kroon-oil-poly-tech-5w-40/
I make up my mind until spring, when i get the car back on the road.
@ Finn: Thanks. The Amsoil is the only decent 10w-30 car oil i could find, but it only have a HTHS of 3.1, therefore i dont like to use it.
@ PeterPolyol: Thank you. I know that a lot of Bitog members uses HDEO oils in gasoline engines, but as these Oils A) Not Group IV / V and B) a little bit complicated to buy for me, i dont lke to use them. The camshafts have roller followers, by the way. Hondas engineers where not cheap when they desingned this engine.
@ rrounds: Yes, used engines getting more and more scares and expenisve, I keep my fingers crossed. Thanks for sharing your expirience!
@ Shannow: Thanks, that was interesting! I never was thinking about Boat oils! I just have cheked the "usual Suspects", but the best i can get is Liqui Moly and ROWE Group III boat oil in 10w-30.
@ Bailes: My impression was Dexos = Low SAPS Diesel = Not suitable for a Engine like the Honda S2000? Am i wrong?
@ phaphaphooey: (Your nickname is hard to write, btw..
) i was thinking the same, that the oil recomendation from Honda is a little bit dated and that oils have evolved over the past two decades. Thanks for your Input. @ all:
I will use on of the following oils:
- Shell Helix Ultra 0w-40 / 5w-40
- Castrol Edge 0w-40
Here is a VOA of the Castrol mixed with Liqui Moly Ceratec. Looks very good: https://oil-club.de/index.php?thread/64-castrol-edge-titanium-fst-0w-40-liqui-moly-ceratec/
- Motul 8100 X-Max 0w-40
- Rowe Synth RS 0w-40
- Liqui Moly Synthoil 0w-40 / 5w-40
I think i cant get wrong with one of these, and i could buy all of them locally. To deal with shear down, i will run shorter OCIs. The regular OCI of 15.000 Km / 9300 Miles that Honda specifys is a little bit to long for this engine, i think.
There are two more oils:
- Penrite 10 Tenths premium 0w-40
A little bit hard to find here in Germany. But PAO, Ester, Zinc. And the only one that claims to be "Shear free".
- Kroon Oil Polytech 5w-40
A oil from a dutch company that contains PAG (The Oil that is used in air condition compressors). The previous 10w-40 version was very well regarded in the german oil club oil forum and deliverd some very good UOAs. The company just stopped the production of the 10w-40 and changed the formulation to 5w-40, here is a VOA: https://oil-club.de/index.php?thread/4709-kroon-oil-poly-tech-5w-40/
I make up my mind until spring, when i get the car back on the road.
In the category of anecdotes:
I have a co-worker who is about to "retire" his '02 S2K. He's going to park it(I've talked to him a time or two about buying it from him) when the odo rolls over 300K, and he has another low mileage, slightly newer one he's already bought to replace it.
He's faithfully done ~59 oil changes on it(5K intervals) since he bought it new, mostly at Quick Lube places uses whatever bulk 10W-30 they were selling at the time. The engine has never been apart, and he says it has a small oil LEAK but seemingly doesn't BURN any oil.
Also, to his credit probably 200K+ of those 300K miles are interstate(which also most likely explains how he's still running on the factory clutch). He also says that he's never run it up to the redline, and knowing him decently well I'd tend to believe that.
It's one of the few S2Ks I know of that's a true daily driver, but IMO it's a testament to the fact that regular maintenance and driving with some sense are probably the most important things for engine longevity. There again, though, this is just a single anecdote.
I have a co-worker who is about to "retire" his '02 S2K. He's going to park it(I've talked to him a time or two about buying it from him) when the odo rolls over 300K, and he has another low mileage, slightly newer one he's already bought to replace it.
He's faithfully done ~59 oil changes on it(5K intervals) since he bought it new, mostly at Quick Lube places uses whatever bulk 10W-30 they were selling at the time. The engine has never been apart, and he says it has a small oil LEAK but seemingly doesn't BURN any oil.
Also, to his credit probably 200K+ of those 300K miles are interstate(which also most likely explains how he's still running on the factory clutch). He also says that he's never run it up to the redline, and knowing him decently well I'd tend to believe that.
It's one of the few S2Ks I know of that's a true daily driver, but IMO it's a testament to the fact that regular maintenance and driving with some sense are probably the most important things for engine longevity. There again, though, this is just a single anecdote.
I have 10w30 Maxlife in my AP1 right now. Had a small Rear mail leak after sitting for about a year. Maxlife seems to have stopped it. I bought it to take it to redline, that the best part about the car. No need to save it for someone else. Parts are common with bozos often spinning out, ending up in ditches etc. At least in California.
@ bunnspecial: Thanks. 300 K Miles on a S2000 engine is really remarkable!
Yes, i see your point, and you are absolutely right. I allways take care about the engine. Slowly warm it up, shift at 8.500, avoid the RPM limiter, change Oil often. Nevertheless, i really drive it hard often. But it is desigend for this, mechnical wise.
I think most problems relating the S2000 are oil filters getting loose, use of non OEM oil filters, engine runs out of oil because lazy owners dont check the oil level and owners that dont understand that a engine needs to be warmed up before you can drive it hard.
@ 2stroekNorthstar: They only sold 4.500 S2000 here in Germany. Used parts are really expensive and hard to find. You are lucky!
Yes, i see your point, and you are absolutely right. I allways take care about the engine. Slowly warm it up, shift at 8.500, avoid the RPM limiter, change Oil often. Nevertheless, i really drive it hard often. But it is desigend for this, mechnical wise.
I think most problems relating the S2000 are oil filters getting loose, use of non OEM oil filters, engine runs out of oil because lazy owners dont check the oil level and owners that dont understand that a engine needs to be warmed up before you can drive it hard.
@ 2stroekNorthstar: They only sold 4.500 S2000 here in Germany. Used parts are really expensive and hard to find. You are lucky!
HAPPY NEW YEAR ! My best wishes to all BITOG'ers and their families.
In case Honda allows W40 grade in S2000 engine, you may easily use these oils. In a theory a true full synthetic 10W-30 with right properties would be more appropriate in a high revving engine than W40, but in Europe it will be very difficult to find such 10W-30. Thus, you don't have a wide choice and you will need to use either W30/W40 ACEA A3/B3/B4 oils or search for HT/HS â¥3.5 "boutique" oils from Motul, Penrite, Redline or Amsoil. As for a choice of SAE grade and an oil brand, it depends on whether your engine consumes oil and, if it does, to what extent, as well as how much fuel shows up in oil at used OCI. If the engine of your car is not burning oil or burns just a little bit, and fuel content is not alarming, I would look closely at the following oils (in random order):
Aral SuperTronic G 0W-30
Penrite 10 Tenths Premium 0W-40
Shell Helix Ultra AB or Helix Ultra 5W-30
Ravenol RSP 5W-30
I have heard that somewhere in EMEA Shell offers its Helix Ultra also in 10W-30 grade. So, it would be wise to check availability with Shell because this could be really a good choice. Amsoil offers two 10W-30 grades which would suit, but like with Redline and Penrite oils their availability in Europe is very limited.
As for W40 oils, the only problem with them is that today nearly all 5W-40 oils are not full synthetic (in a purist stand point) and like 0W-40 they are loaded with VII, so if there is no a need, I would view them as the second choice. The only widely available 5W-40 oil that attracted my attention was Ravenol VST 5W-40 which is claimed to be mainly PAO based, but it was noticed that it may show some fluctuations in NOACK from batch to batch. As an option, if your engine needs/prefers W40 oil, Motul 300V 10W-40 or its blend with 5W-30 could be a good choice.
Anyway, before you try an oil, you will never know. Just stay away from Mid-SAP oils.
From point of view of oil requirements my Prelude 2.2 VTEC H22A2 is quite close to your S2000 and manual also allows W40 oil, but it does not allow ILSAC and ACEA A1/A5 5W-30 oils for temperatures above 0 C. During first 4 years autohaus Hugo Schneider in Moers used Aral 5W-40 and 0W-40 and everything was OK. Later I used Motul 15W-50, Motul 300V 10W-40, Unocal 76 Nascar Synthetic 10W-30, Motul 8100 5W-40, Motul 8100 0W-40, Elf Synthese 5W-40, Elf Synthese 0W-40, Castrol SLX 0W-30, Comma Catherhem 5W-50, Motul 300V BIO 5W-40 (it was used from 2004 till 2017), Aral SuperTronic G 0W-30, Fina First 5W-50 (4l from 2001) + Motul 300V 10W-40 (0.5l from 2003), Shell Helix Ultra AB 5W-30. All oils except Elf 5W-40 and Motul 8100 5W-40 were true synthetic and some of them I really liked a lot though subjectively the main difference was in oil consumption (for 7-8K km OCI it was from about 0.2 to 0.8l) and easiness in revving. The lowest oil consumption was with Motul 300V 15W-50, 10W-40, BIO 5W-40 and Elf Synthese 0W-40 even after hours of hard driving on autobahn. Unfortunately, today many of a.m. oils are different stuff. Today the car has 280K km on its odometer, but the engine is in a good health, clean inside and oil consumption stays unchanged. My experience with W50 oils clearly shows that H22A2 may digest even this non-specified grade.
BTW, what oil filter do you use right now or expect to use ? Think this may also alter your choice of oil viscosity.
In case Honda allows W40 grade in S2000 engine, you may easily use these oils. In a theory a true full synthetic 10W-30 with right properties would be more appropriate in a high revving engine than W40, but in Europe it will be very difficult to find such 10W-30. Thus, you don't have a wide choice and you will need to use either W30/W40 ACEA A3/B3/B4 oils or search for HT/HS â¥3.5 "boutique" oils from Motul, Penrite, Redline or Amsoil. As for a choice of SAE grade and an oil brand, it depends on whether your engine consumes oil and, if it does, to what extent, as well as how much fuel shows up in oil at used OCI. If the engine of your car is not burning oil or burns just a little bit, and fuel content is not alarming, I would look closely at the following oils (in random order):
Aral SuperTronic G 0W-30
Penrite 10 Tenths Premium 0W-40
Shell Helix Ultra AB or Helix Ultra 5W-30
Ravenol RSP 5W-30
I have heard that somewhere in EMEA Shell offers its Helix Ultra also in 10W-30 grade. So, it would be wise to check availability with Shell because this could be really a good choice. Amsoil offers two 10W-30 grades which would suit, but like with Redline and Penrite oils their availability in Europe is very limited.
As for W40 oils, the only problem with them is that today nearly all 5W-40 oils are not full synthetic (in a purist stand point) and like 0W-40 they are loaded with VII, so if there is no a need, I would view them as the second choice. The only widely available 5W-40 oil that attracted my attention was Ravenol VST 5W-40 which is claimed to be mainly PAO based, but it was noticed that it may show some fluctuations in NOACK from batch to batch. As an option, if your engine needs/prefers W40 oil, Motul 300V 10W-40 or its blend with 5W-30 could be a good choice.
Anyway, before you try an oil, you will never know. Just stay away from Mid-SAP oils.
From point of view of oil requirements my Prelude 2.2 VTEC H22A2 is quite close to your S2000 and manual also allows W40 oil, but it does not allow ILSAC and ACEA A1/A5 5W-30 oils for temperatures above 0 C. During first 4 years autohaus Hugo Schneider in Moers used Aral 5W-40 and 0W-40 and everything was OK. Later I used Motul 15W-50, Motul 300V 10W-40, Unocal 76 Nascar Synthetic 10W-30, Motul 8100 5W-40, Motul 8100 0W-40, Elf Synthese 5W-40, Elf Synthese 0W-40, Castrol SLX 0W-30, Comma Catherhem 5W-50, Motul 300V BIO 5W-40 (it was used from 2004 till 2017), Aral SuperTronic G 0W-30, Fina First 5W-50 (4l from 2001) + Motul 300V 10W-40 (0.5l from 2003), Shell Helix Ultra AB 5W-30. All oils except Elf 5W-40 and Motul 8100 5W-40 were true synthetic and some of them I really liked a lot though subjectively the main difference was in oil consumption (for 7-8K km OCI it was from about 0.2 to 0.8l) and easiness in revving. The lowest oil consumption was with Motul 300V 15W-50, 10W-40, BIO 5W-40 and Elf Synthese 0W-40 even after hours of hard driving on autobahn. Unfortunately, today many of a.m. oils are different stuff. Today the car has 280K km on its odometer, but the engine is in a good health, clean inside and oil consumption stays unchanged. My experience with W50 oils clearly shows that H22A2 may digest even this non-specified grade.
BTW, what oil filter do you use right now or expect to use ? Think this may also alter your choice of oil viscosity.
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Tnx for the wishes! Wish you peaceful year ahead...and unpenetrable border on the east!
Originally Posted by Kamele0N
Tnx for the wishes! Wish you peaceful year ahead...and unpenetrable border on the east!
Thank you a lot !
Tnx for the wishes! Wish you peaceful year ahead...and unpenetrable border on the east!
Thank you a lot !
@ Primus: Thanks for your input!
The Amsoil 10w-30 has only a HTHS of 3,1 as i wrote before. I personally will not use a oil with such a low HTHS in a engine with such a high piston speed as the S 2000.
Personally, i am thinking more and more about a oil from Penrite or Motul....
Regarding the Oil filter, for a S2000 engine you should ONLY use the Honda S2000 Oil filter, nothing else. It is in fact a little bit different to other filters.
All other filters may come lose or restrict oil flow.
The Amsoil 10w-30 has only a HTHS of 3,1 as i wrote before. I personally will not use a oil with such a low HTHS in a engine with such a high piston speed as the S 2000.
Personally, i am thinking more and more about a oil from Penrite or Motul....
Regarding the Oil filter, for a S2000 engine you should ONLY use the Honda S2000 Oil filter, nothing else. It is in fact a little bit different to other filters.
All other filters may come lose or restrict oil flow.
Amsoil offers two 10W-30 oils with HT/HS > 3.5:
AMSOIL DOMINATOR® 10W-30 Racing Oil
AMSOIL Z-ROD® 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
May be at least one of them could suit for your S2000 and be even available. As for Motul, today its 300V line is not the same it was 15-20 years ago. In some grades the esters content became so low that it seems they are there just for an odor.
BTW, do you have some objections or concerns for using RAVENOL RSP SAE 5W-30 ? For me the only one is their claim on tungsten work, but spec looks really decent for 5W-30. Ask Ravenol to send you MSDS - it may provide you with some more info about this stuff.
AMSOIL DOMINATOR® 10W-30 Racing Oil
AMSOIL Z-ROD® 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil
May be at least one of them could suit for your S2000 and be even available. As for Motul, today its 300V line is not the same it was 15-20 years ago. In some grades the esters content became so low that it seems they are there just for an odor.
BTW, do you have some objections or concerns for using RAVENOL RSP SAE 5W-30 ? For me the only one is their claim on tungsten work, but spec looks really decent for 5W-30. Ask Ravenol to send you MSDS - it may provide you with some more info about this stuff.
I really dont understand why you dont want to try E6/E9 version of Shell Rimula 10w40
It has almost full saps...it is almost 10w30 in viscosity...HTHS is 3.5+ (by acea standard)...it is GTL based...and I am sure that it is easier to find then lets say your Amsoil
It has almost full saps...it is almost 10w30 in viscosity...HTHS is 3.5+ (by acea standard)...it is GTL based...and I am sure that it is easier to find then lets say your Amsoil
@ Primus:
Thanks.
I dont like to use racing Oils with High zinc, because it will kill the catalyst over time. I want to avoid a costly reapair.
And i dont want to use Motul 300V or Ravenol.
I have posted the list of Oils that i want to use allready here in the thread.
Wich of this oils would you prefer?
@KameleON:
Thanks.
Personally, i dont see any benefit of using a diesel oil in a high reving gasoline engine when dedicated gasoline oils are available.
And, belive me, shell rimula is hard to find here. I never seen it on a shelf.
In contrast, i can buy (allmost) all the oils from my wishlist from dealers in my town without problems.
All this steers me away from informing myself deeply about the use of HDEO diesel oil and using it.
Thanks.
I dont like to use racing Oils with High zinc, because it will kill the catalyst over time. I want to avoid a costly reapair.
And i dont want to use Motul 300V or Ravenol.
I have posted the list of Oils that i want to use allready here in the thread.
Wich of this oils would you prefer?
@KameleON:
Thanks.
Personally, i dont see any benefit of using a diesel oil in a high reving gasoline engine when dedicated gasoline oils are available.
And, belive me, shell rimula is hard to find here. I never seen it on a shelf.
In contrast, i can buy (allmost) all the oils from my wishlist from dealers in my town without problems.
All this steers me away from informing myself deeply about the use of HDEO diesel oil and using it.
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