Convert your Pentastar to a spin-on filter?

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JTK

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I saw this over on a Ram board I frequent. I apologize if it's been mentioned here.

To me, this adapter does nothing to solve the potential problems the Pentastar oil filter/cooler housing has. I just don't see the purpose? The spin-on is likely going to have a lot less filtering media than the OE drop-in element as well.

https://baxterperformanceusa.com/product/ms-201-bk-cartridge-to-spin-on-adapter/

 
The 3.6l Pentastar engines are my new read because friends just bought two. A '17 JGC (used w/23K) and a leftover '19 DGC.

Weak plastic construction and over-tightening break this "cantilevered gooseneck oil filter-adaptor with cooler/preheater", they tell me.
Also, the design's seals add a bunch of failure points.
Note that the "community" is split between those who'll swear it's a "Diamler merger" design and others who'll insist it ain't.

No mention of the new, remedial assembly's weight is mentioned. It's yarning on a cheap plastic cantilevered tube mile after mile.
The clamp section pressing against the cheap plastic filter housing could be one for the record books.
Does it press against the trouble prone plastic or bite into it? The guy in the Baxter video just tightens it.

An ADBV appeals to me. It's mind blowing that an engine which drains down, "in 35 to 38 minutes", was built in the first place.
Could it be the, "90% of all engine wear occurs at startup" line, is a lie?

Blowing air into the remedial Baxter thing to clear it before a filter change is kinda cool.

And a note to videographers: Pictures of your arms never help.
The jabboriness of the linked video was insane.

Check out the aluminum replacement part for 2014+ models if your original ever breaks.
Pre-2014's appear to have no such replacement.

Standing by, waiting to be yelled at.
 
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We just traded a 2013 Pentastar Charger (bought new) with no issues … bumper to bumper …
I do 2x5k on Fram XG … My torque solution for our Jeep Wrangler with Pentastar:

87A870B0-FDC9-4D41-AF4D-A07FE1053066.png
 
The 3.6l Pentastar engines are my new read because friends just bought two. A '17 JGC (used w/23K) and a leftover '19 DGC.

Weak plastic construction and over-tightening break this "cantilevered gooseneck oil filter-adaptor with cooler/preheater", they tell me.
Also, the design's seals add a bunch of failure points.
Note that the "community" is split between those who'll swear it's a "Diamler merger" design and others who'll insist it ain't.

No mention of the new, remedial assembly's weight is mentioned. It's yarning on a cheap plastic cantilevered tube mile after mile.
The clamp section pressing against the cheap plastic filter housing could be one for the record books.
Does it press against the trouble prone plastic or bite into it? The guy in the Baxter video just tightens it.

An ADBV appeals to me. It's mind blowing that an engine which drains down, "in 35 to 38 minutes", was built in the first place.
Could it be the, "90% of all engine wear occurs at startup" line, is a lie?

Blowing air into the remedial Baxter thing to clear it before a filter change is kinda cool.

And a note to videographers: Pictures of your arms never help.
The jabboriness of the linked video was insane.

Check out the aluminum replacement part for 2014+ models if your original ever breaks.
Pre-2014's appear to have no such replacement.

Standing by, waiting to be yelled at.
I can only yell at why is it important to know who was at fault? Why would people fight endlessly about it? Let's say they find out for sure. Then what, anything change?
On this spin on adapter, wouldn't it be more of a mess when the filter is removed, like oil all over the place?
 
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We just traded a 2013 Pentastar Charger (bought new) with no issues … bumper to bumper …
I do 2x5k on Fram XG … My torque solution for our Jeep Wrangler with Pentastar:

I owned two pentastars. The first was in a 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan we bought new. I did every oil change on it. I think it was about 2yrs and 40K miles in I would notice a burnt oil smell from it from time to time. It was probably the oil filter/cooler housing even though I was always careful with it and hand snugged it. We owned it 4yrs and 75K miles. I didn't know about the cooler issues at the time.

Also had a 2017 Ram 1500 w/ pentastar. I bought it a year old w/ 12K miles on it. I'd get a hint of burnt oil smell from that one too from time to time. If I washed the engine bay, I'd get an oil sheen in the water that rinsed out. I considered getting one of those cheap snake cams to allow me to see down into the valley of the block, but I only owned that truck 2yrs and 50K miles total. I do love pentastars, but have no trust for the filter/cooler housing on them.
 
I don't see how this adapter really fixes much... Sure I can get a filter with an ADBV but it still has to get all the way up there. Most oil filters are much lower on the block so you will still have some dry start up time I feel. I also think this would be a hell of a mess when you change it. The existing cartridge filter makes enough of a mess, I wouldn't want any more. On top of all that this adds more mass on a part that is already subject to leaking. For me, I think these concerns are enough to avoid this $300 headache.

Just my $0.02
 
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The spin-on filter adapter also has a built-in check valve (anti-siphon valve) from what he said in the video at 1:20. So that check valve along with the filter ADBV it's suppose to prevent any oil drain down when the engine is turned off.
 
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I don't see how this adapter really fixes much... Sure I can get a filter with an ADBV but it still has to get all the way up there. Most oil filters are much lower on the block so you will still have some dry start up time I feel. I also think this would be a hell of a mess when you change it. The existing cartridge filter makes enough of a mess, I wouldn't want any more. On top of all that this adds more mass on a part that is already subject to leaking. For me, I think these concerns are enough to avoid this $300 headache.

Just my $0.02
My son could not get the Fram off his car … said he would get a good bind on the wrench and it would eventually slip. It was the XG and I was out of town … so said we will put 15k on the filter. They do get stuck.
So how about having a stuck filter on an already fragile piece of kit (rhymes with) …
 
The spin-on filter adapter also has a built-in check valve (anti-siphon valve) from what he said in the video at 1:20. So that check valve along with the filter ADBV it's suppose to prevent any oil drain down when the engine is turned off.

I still don't get the oil drain-back situation with these. With the 2 pentastars I owned. When changing the filter, there was always oil in the filter housing. You could hear it gurgle back down when you loosened the cap and you would dribble oil all over if you weren't careful.

I never had startup taps. ticks, etc with mine aside from the 2013 that would make a moaning noise from the oil pan on winter time cold starts until the engine warmed up some (could be several minutes).
 
I still don't get the oil drain-back situation with these. With the 2 pentastars I owned. When changing the filter, there was always oil in the filter housing. You could hear it gurgle back down when you loosened the cap and you would dribble oil all over if you weren't careful.

I never had startup taps. ticks, etc with mine aside from the 2013 that would make a moaning noise from the oil pan on winter time cold starts until the engine warmed up some (could be several minutes).
Same here … and that housing is not vented until you break the seal on the cap …
My Jeep shows oil pressure PDQ … and the variable output pump spends lots of time at only 30 psi …
 
I thought the O-ring tab at the bottom of the oil filter held a check valve to keep oil in the canister. Yes? No? I've drained the oil on my 3.6's many times and when oil stops dripping out the oil pan I unscrew the oil filter cap and you can hear the oil drain out. Looking at the oil pan drain hole confirms this as more oil drains out. It does take a couple seconds to fill the canister back up I'm sure but I've never had a 3.6 tick as it does this. I've had six 3.6 engines all have done the same thing.
 
Check out the aluminum replacement part for 2014+ models if your original ever breaks.
Pre-2014's appear to have no such replacement.
I like the aluminum replacement, but it still doesn't solve the issue of the o-rings going bad. I have a 2014 3.6L I maintain, and it's filter housing failed at 58K miles. New filter housing solved the cracking problem (dealership did the oil changes and the warranty replacement), However, I see the seals as the main problem on the new housings. The assembly installed in the 2014 was AG (big jump from the original AB) and I expect it to fail due to the o-rings in about 6 or 7 years.
 
I'm on my 4th Pentastar. I've never had an issue with the cartridge filters. I always use a torque wrench to tighten the housing. My filter is never dry when I remove it.
 
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Dorman has a new aluminum oil filter and cooler housing out for the Pentastar, made in the US(for now).

This adapter doesn’t solve anything, and it won’t prevent a lube tech or quick lube from torquing the hell out of the filter which causes the problem.
 
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