Cold tick on startup, cleaning procedure

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i6pwr

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My GM 4.2 w/ 160K has been fed a healthy diet of M1 with maybe 5-6 changes of non M1. Generally when it's cold outside, I will get a lifter tick or whatever is under the valve cover...never had my face in there so I cannot accurately make a guess.

The tick will last for maybe 5 sec or up to 20 sec at times....generally 5-10 sec. This is not a piston slap for sure, it will tick them abruptly stop.

Last change was M1 HM and I added about 3/4 qt of MMO. I just drained it at 2K and refilled with PYB and looking for a good additive but with many avail I wanted to get some opinions.

Engine runs great, very quiet when warm and the needle is steady under a vacuum gauge. May be a small amount of varnish...not sure but after this I will perform a UOA and go from there.
 
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id say your hearing just that (lifter tap) when the oil gets up there it stops.. simple enuff, ive seen engines with lifter tap go a long-long-long way with nothing being done to them..
 
I sometimes have a lifter tick on my truck for the first couple minutes after a cold start. I don't worry about it. It's just extra clearance when the engine is cold.
 
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
id say your hearing just that (lifter tap) when the oil gets up there it stops.. simple enuff, ive seen engines with lifter tap go a long-long-long way with nothing being done to them..
+1 just lifter tick , M1 is protecting the motor just fine.
 
IMO....just the light oil, 5w-20,30, in the cool weather.

No problem....it will go away once the oil gets up to operating temperature.
 
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Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Could it be the oil filter's ADBV and a dry-start sound you are hearing?

...the oil is thickest when cold.


The end of the OC before the M1, and actually at the end of the previous one to that, the engine was quiet. It's only when I just change the oil I get the tick. Seems after about 3-4 K the tick is not as bad or maybe last a sec, generally no tick.

Last filter was Pure one and filter previous to that was puro classic. Filter now is M1 since I had one laying around.
 
Originally Posted By: hounddog
Sounds Like your wasting your time with different oil and such. If it didn't clear up with MMO its not going to clear up. Has a mechanical issue.


+1
 
We(my son and I owened the truck) had a 91 Ranger 3.0 and it had one lifter that would do that on a cold start but clear up in 15 seconds or less. That one lifter was just a little weak and would drain off the oil over night. By the way when he sold it last year the Ranger had 354K and the engine still ran great except for that one lifter.
 
Originally Posted By: i6pwr

The end of the OC before the M1, and actually at the end of the previous one to that, the engine was quiet. It's only when I just change the oil I get the tick. Seems after about 3-4 K the tick is not as bad or maybe last a sec, generally no tick.

Last filter was Pure one and filter previous to that was puro classic. Filter now is M1 since I had one laying around.


At the end of OCI your oil shears down to lower grade, so it gets to the lifters faster and warms up to temp faster. I would do one OCI on 5w-20, or thinner 5w30, such as Synpower.

I am ASSUMING you normally use 5w30

I bet tick will go away.

PS M1 HM oil is thicker than regular M1, so adding MMO just brought it back to the regular M1 viscosity.
 
Originally Posted By: Ursae_Majoris
Originally Posted By: i6pwr

The end of the OC before the M1, and actually at the end of the previous one to that, the engine was quiet. It's only when I just change the oil I get the tick. Seems after about 3-4 K the tick is not as bad or maybe last a sec, generally no tick.

Last filter was Pure one and filter previous to that was puro classic. Filter now is M1 since I had one laying around.



At the end of OCI your oil shears down to lower grade, so it gets to the lifters faster and warms up to temp faster. I would do one OCI on 5w-20, or thinner 5w30, such as Synpower.

I am ASSUMING you normally use 5w30

I bet tick will go away.

PS M1 HM oil is thicker than regular M1, so adding MMO just brought it back to the regular M1 viscosity.


+1
 
Just try the M1 HM without adding any MMO to see if the thicker blend helps you out any. There is really nothing else you can do about it shy of tearing it down and thats just not worth it since it will likely go on another 100k for you with no issues.
 
M1 Super 5000:
cSt at 40°C 63.95
cSt at 100°C 10.7
CCS, cP 6,080 @ -30ºC
MRV, cP 26,800 @ -35ºC
Viscosity Index 158

M1 Super Full Synthetic 5w30:
cSt at 40°C 61.1
cSt at 100°C 10.5
CCS, cP 5000 @ -30°C
MRV, cP 20,500 @ -35°C
Viscosity Index 162

M1 Super High Milage:
cSt at 40°C 61.4
cSt at 100°C 10.4
CCS, cP 6000 @ -30ºC
MRV, cP 26,400 @ -35ºC
Viscosity Index 159

M1 High mileage is marginally thicker than M1 synthetic, so if the issue is lack of lubrication for the lifters at the start up, HM oil will be worse than M1 Syn. The fact that tick goes away at the end of the OCI is a tell-tale sign that oil is too thick for the lifters. As oil is used up, it shears down to lower grade. If it is a timing chain motor, then it REALLY shears down.

Valvoline Synpower 5w30:
Vis @ 40°C (cSt)59.5
Vis @ 100°C (cSt)10.7
Viscosity Index 172
CCS cP (°C) 4300 @ -30
MRV TP-1 cP (°C)18,000@-35

Valvoline Synpower is thinner at start up than any of the M1 I have listed. That's why if OP is uncomfortable with using 5w-20 in his truck, Synpower 5w30 would be a good choice.
 
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Originally Posted By: i6pwr
My GM 4.2 w/ 160K has been fed a healthy diet of M1 with maybe 5-6 changes of non M1. Generally when it's cold outside, I will get a lifter tick or whatever is under the valve cover...never had my face in there so I cannot accurately make a guess.

The tick will last for maybe 5 sec or up to 20 sec at times....generally 5-10 sec. This is not a piston slap for sure, it will tick them abruptly stop.

Last change was M1 HM and I added about 3/4 qt of MMO. I just drained it at 2K and refilled with PYB and looking for a good additive but with many avail I wanted to get some opinions.

Engine runs great, very quiet when warm and the needle is steady under a vacuum gauge. May be a small amount of varnish...not sure but after this I will perform a UOA and go from there.



You never mentioned what viscosity your oil is. How often are your OCIs?.... with syn?..... without syn?
 
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I've had bad valve train start up noise when cold using the Purolator Classic, never again... No issues with a Pure One...
 
Check your exhaust manifold bolts. Ive got 3 broken ones on my 04 below. Thought I developed piston slap or lord only knows what. A mechanic friend who owns the shop across from my shop laughed and told me exactly what it was without looking at the truck when I told him the truck developed "piston slap". The truck knocks like **** until the temp get to 160f then the manifold gaskets must quiet it right up.
 
Well, I wasn't going through oils to find one that quiets it down, just wanted to get the MMO out of there before I perform a UOA.

The motor is the 4200 vortec, I6 DOHC 24V. Tonight it had a loud tick for about 5-8 ticks then the tick continued but at the lower volume but stayed for about 20 sec.

Was very noticeable that it was an oil starvation issue for the first few seconds but not sure why it's happening and i'm leaning on the side of varnish or a deposit.

The motor was quiet this morning but after work it made the tick, after sitting for 12 hrs....long day at work.
 
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