Sorry there Trouthead i thought you meant kreen with the question of dosage.My bad,old eyes and brain get tired.
Cleaning suggestions
- Thread starter Trouthead
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: sprintman
( it dilutes viscosity).
sprintman, I am the biggest auto-rx critic when it comes to using this product in the engine, there is NO way auto-rx does anything to the viscosity of the host oil. It basically has a pour point of 45 degrees. I respect you as a valued member here, but your comment seems like something that even Frank Miller, or anyone else associated with arx would not even think about saying.
I can see a product like MMO affecting the Viscosity of the Motor Oil since it has a pour point of -60 degrees.
( it dilutes viscosity).
sprintman, I am the biggest auto-rx critic when it comes to using this product in the engine, there is NO way auto-rx does anything to the viscosity of the host oil. It basically has a pour point of 45 degrees. I respect you as a valued member here, but your comment seems like something that even Frank Miller, or anyone else associated with arx would not even think about saying.
I can see a product like MMO affecting the Viscosity of the Motor Oil since it has a pour point of -60 degrees.
Comment came as email from Frank or Gary, not sure who? Trust me, with 36 oz RX in your sump and 4 1/2 quarts oil it thins. Oil pressure dropped to near zero at idle. 24 oz max is as much as I'll do in the future.
I can believe an OD of A-Rx would thin the host oil, in fact too much might even destroy the host oil. Sprintman's near ZERO oil pressure at idle might just prove that. For the average user it would be best to follow directions, since any deviation from them will leave them hanging dead from the vine if there is a problem.
No A-rx bashing here. But it is best for the novice user of any product to follow directions. Sprintman is an experienced user and I'm guessing would assume any risk associated with not following directions. JMO
No A-rx bashing here. But it is best for the novice user of any product to follow directions. Sprintman is an experienced user and I'm guessing would assume any risk associated with not following directions. JMO
Yes I was willing to lose an engine (great excuse for rebild/strengthen) on this one, but massive leakage and judicious qty's OF 20W50 has alleviated some thinning. Sometimes I just go to far..
How far into this dose are you? It could possibly work out positively for you too, maybe?
The flip side to what I said above is that sometimes thinking out of the box has some positive effects too.
I'm a big fan of Seafoam in the gas tank (1-2 oz. per gallon of fuel - after a complete top off*) and in the crank case.
BUT, with my latest purchase, the 88 dodge aries (I noticed yours was an 88 too
) with a little less than 30k on the clock, I was recommended 16 oz (one pint) of MMO in the oil as a "top off"...I popped the hood noticed the oil was low, so I added that in, gave it a crank for a good 10 minute drive around the block, came back and the dipstick was BLACK.....lol.
Soooo.....tomorrow I'm gonna get that oil changed out And probably throw some more MMO in the crank case....according to the MMO forums, I should be OK using 16 oz. (half a quart) of MMO in the crank case along with 3.5 qts of oil (probably cheap SuperTech for a cheap 3k clean out).....but not a full quart, since I only have a 4 qt capacity on that 2.2L Dodge Aries....
I haven't gone as far as pulling apart the engine....but it is a low mileage so I'm not to worried about that.....
*When I say Complete top off, I'm referring to the "first click" when the pump shuts itself off....you don't want gas getting into that vapor/charcoal canister....
BUT, with my latest purchase, the 88 dodge aries (I noticed yours was an 88 too
) with a little less than 30k on the clock, I was recommended 16 oz (one pint) of MMO in the oil as a "top off"...I popped the hood noticed the oil was low, so I added that in, gave it a crank for a good 10 minute drive around the block, came back and the dipstick was BLACK.....lol.Soooo.....tomorrow I'm gonna get that oil changed out
And probably throw some more MMO in the crank case....according to the MMO forums, I should be OK using 16 oz. (half a quart) of MMO in the crank case along with 3.5 qts of oil (probably cheap SuperTech for a cheap 3k clean out).....but not a full quart, since I only have a 4 qt capacity on that 2.2L Dodge Aries....I haven't gone as far as pulling apart the engine....but it is a low mileage so I'm not to worried about that.....
*When I say Complete top off, I'm referring to the "first click" when the pump shuts itself off....you don't want gas getting into that vapor/charcoal canister....
5,000 kms in to the three bottle trial. Will change it out soon as I don't think the engine will get much cleaner.
Originally Posted By: ahoier
I'm a big fan of Seafoam in the gas tank (1-2 oz. per gallon of fuel - after a complete top off*) and in the crank case.
BUT, with my latest purchase, the 88 dodge aries (I noticed yours was an 88 too) with a little less than 30k on the clock, I was recommended 16 oz (one pint) of MMO in the oil as a "top off"...I popped the hood noticed the oil was low, so I added that in, gave it a crank for a good 10 minute drive around the block, came back and the dipstick was BLACK.....lol.
Soooo.....tomorrow I'm gonna get that oil changed out And probably throw some more MMO in the crank case....according to the MMO forums, I should be OK using 16 oz. (half a quart) of MMO in the crank case along with 3.5 qts of oil (probably cheap SuperTech for a cheap 3k clean out).....but not a full quart, since I only have a 4 qt capacity on that 2.2L Dodge Aries....
I haven't gone as far as pulling apart the engine....but it is a low mileage so I'm not to worried about that.....
*When I say Complete top off, I'm referring to the "first click" when the pump shuts itself off....you don't want gas getting into that vapor/charcoal canister....
I use MMO in my dodge 318, does great and yes it will clean out the sludge,,had chunks of it n my filter once when i ran it 30oomiles,,now none appear.
I'm a big fan of Seafoam in the gas tank (1-2 oz. per gallon of fuel - after a complete top off*) and in the crank case.
BUT, with my latest purchase, the 88 dodge aries (I noticed yours was an 88 too
) with a little less than 30k on the clock, I was recommended 16 oz (one pint) of MMO in the oil as a "top off"...I popped the hood noticed the oil was low, so I added that in, gave it a crank for a good 10 minute drive around the block, came back and the dipstick was BLACK.....lol.Soooo.....tomorrow I'm gonna get that oil changed out
And probably throw some more MMO in the crank case....according to the MMO forums, I should be OK using 16 oz. (half a quart) of MMO in the crank case along with 3.5 qts of oil (probably cheap SuperTech for a cheap 3k clean out).....but not a full quart, since I only have a 4 qt capacity on that 2.2L Dodge Aries....I haven't gone as far as pulling apart the engine....but it is a low mileage so I'm not to worried about that.....
*When I say Complete top off, I'm referring to the "first click" when the pump shuts itself off....you don't want gas getting into that vapor/charcoal canister....
I use MMO in my dodge 318, does great and yes it will clean out the sludge,,had chunks of it n my filter once when i ran it 30oomiles,,now none appear.
Do I need to change out my filter at any point other than when I do the complete oil change?
Originally Posted By: trouthead
Do I need to change out my filter at any point other than when I do the complete oil change?
I would if there was a fair amount of sludge,for just varnish and minor stuff then not. Don't forget to add another 160z at the 1k mark,you will notice the oil level has returned to normal after approx 1k.I would dump it 3k and unless it was really bad it should be clean and you can return to your normal OCI sans the Kreen.
Originally Posted By: Techniker
Where can you get Kreen?
Kano Labs.Look for their free trial product offer.
You can get a free can of Kroil basically bringing the cost of the Kreen to nothing.
Do I need to change out my filter at any point other than when I do the complete oil change?
I would if there was a fair amount of sludge,for just varnish and minor stuff then not. Don't forget to add another 160z at the 1k mark,you will notice the oil level has returned to normal after approx 1k.I would dump it 3k and unless it was really bad it should be clean and you can return to your normal OCI sans the Kreen.
Originally Posted By: Techniker
Where can you get Kreen?
Kano Labs.Look for their free trial product offer.
You can get a free can of Kroil basically bringing the cost of the Kreen to nothing.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked