The owners manual spec is wss-m2c946-a 5w30, Chevron data sheet says it meets the spec. Granted this is a turbo, I do 5,000 mile oil changes. I've used Chevron Supreme in the past with good results, and in comparison to motorcraft 5w30 semi synthetic is there much of a difference? How much synthetic oil is in the semi synthetic motorcraft? I remember some posts here a long time ago talking about how Chevron oils were hydrocracked (or something like that) and they were basically semi synthetics anyways. Thanks for any info.
Chevron Supreme 5w-30 in 2016 2.0 ecoboost
- Thread starter Corollaman
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No matter how the base was made and blended, it's the specs that are important. Many group 3 bases perform just as well as their PAO counterparts. Most synthetic oils are blends of base oils anyway.
For your EcoBoost I would consider a synthetic. Chevron has the Havoline Pro DS in a 5w30 that meets the specs including the Honda HTO-06 one. It may be outdated but some here consider it to be a tough spec to meet.
For your EcoBoost I would consider a synthetic. Chevron has the Havoline Pro DS in a 5w30 that meets the specs including the Honda HTO-06 one. It may be outdated but some here consider it to be a tough spec to meet.
Chev Supreme is good oil with a stout detergent and wear pack. I would change that oil every 3 to 4 thousand miles though in an ecoboost "turbo" engine. Heck, I'd do the same with synthetics, too.
Since I'm talking about doing an OCI at 3 to 4K miles, please do an oil analysis right at 3K miles and see what Blackstone or whomever tells you.
Good luck and report back!
BTW, I've used Chevron Supreme in an older Chevy Silverado with great success. It's good oil, but then a pushrod V8 isn't a DI and or a "turbo" engine.
Since I'm talking about doing an OCI at 3 to 4K miles, please do an oil analysis right at 3K miles and see what Blackstone or whomever tells you.
Good luck and report back!
BTW, I've used Chevron Supreme in an older Chevy Silverado with great success. It's good oil, but then a pushrod V8 isn't a DI and or a "turbo" engine.
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Originally Posted by PimTac
No matter how the base was made and blended, it's the specs that are important. Many group 3 bases perform just as well as their PAO counterparts. Most synthetic oils are blends of base oils anyway.
For your EcoBoost I would consider a synthetic. Chevron has the Havoline Pro DS in a 5w30 that meets the specs including the Honda HTO-06 one. It may be outdated but some here consider it to be a tough spec to meet.
agreeðŸ‘💪
No matter how the base was made and blended, it's the specs that are important. Many group 3 bases perform just as well as their PAO counterparts. Most synthetic oils are blends of base oils anyway.
For your EcoBoost I would consider a synthetic. Chevron has the Havoline Pro DS in a 5w30 that meets the specs including the Honda HTO-06 one. It may be outdated but some here consider it to be a tough spec to meet.
agreeðŸ‘💪
Look at Chevron Supreme and Motor Craft synthetic stat sheet, they are about as opposed of a formula you can get, with the motor craft being far superior, no it isn't a sound strategy. The old we are gonna deny your warranty used to be illegal under Magnusum, but now specifically with di turbo's manu's can literally deny you coverage for running an oil that isn't in compliance with their spec. Research lspi, look at lspi quenchers like moly and lspi bad guys like calcium, and choose an oil that has the least chance of leaving anything in the cylinder that can pre ignite. Anyone can say anything here, and ofen do, but recomending a conventional oil to someone with a di turbo is irresponsible. Can you run it "sure", will you get away with it "probably" but there is zero people in the oil industry that would think that is a good idea, if if you get lspi and you loose that engine, it comes out of your wallet. Here's a good starting point link.
I'd use the best oil with a clean base oil and low calcium high magnesium and avoid dumping fuel in low rpm's, especially as the engine ages. sn+, high moly, there are a couple out there.
I'd use the best oil with a clean base oil and low calcium high magnesium and avoid dumping fuel in low rpm's, especially as the engine ages. sn+, high moly, there are a couple out there.
Costco sells chevron supreme and they often have $10 or $12 off case of 10.
5Wx30 is a blend according to chevron site.
10Wx30 is full dino.
I've used both for many years in 3 cars. Currently in 2 cars since I upgraded one car to synthetic now. The cars sound smooth and none of them are in the junkyard so it must be a good oil ...
5Wx30 is a blend according to chevron site.
10Wx30 is full dino.
I've used both for many years in 3 cars. Currently in 2 cars since I upgraded one car to synthetic now. The cars sound smooth and none of them are in the junkyard so it must be a good oil ...
Id use a full syn and swap every 5k miles.
Since 2016, Ford has updated that -A spec to a -B1 with an LSPI test.
Given that you have a DIT engine, it would make sense for me to get an oil with the new -B1 spec.
It is quite possible that the Ecoboosts are less susceptible to LSPI than other DIT engines (mine was actually recalled for it!!), but Ford did go to the trouble of updating their own oil spec to include an LSPI test in the -B1 version....that says a lot to me.
Given that you have a DIT engine, it would make sense for me to get an oil with the new -B1 spec.
It is quite possible that the Ecoboosts are less susceptible to LSPI than other DIT engines (mine was actually recalled for it!!), but Ford did go to the trouble of updating their own oil spec to include an LSPI test in the -B1 version....that says a lot to me.
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Originally Posted by Rolla07
Id use a full syn and swap every 5k miles.
This ^^^^^^^^^^
Buy oil that reads on the label SN Plus and Dexos / Gen
Id use a full syn and swap every 5k miles.
This ^^^^^^^^^^
Buy oil that reads on the label SN Plus and Dexos / Gen
Originally Posted by ad244
Penny smart, dollar stupid
Is that original? Thanks for the useful help. I'll end up using synthetic but just had a simple question about a highly regarded dino oil.
Penny smart, dollar stupid
Is that original? Thanks for the useful help. I'll end up using synthetic but just had a simple question about a highly regarded dino oil.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by burla
Look at Chevron Supreme and Motor Craft synthetic stat sheet, they are about as opposed of a formula you can get, with the motor craft being far superior, no it isn't a sound strategy. The old we are gonna deny your warranty used to be illegal under Magnusum, but now specifically with di turbo's manu's can literally deny you coverage for running an oil that isn't in compliance with their spec. Research lspi, look at lspi quenchers like moly and lspi bad guys like calcium, and choose an oil that has the least chance of leaving anything in the cylinder that can pre ignite. Anyone can say anything here, and ofen do, but recomending a conventional oil to someone with a di turbo is irresponsible. Can you run it "sure", will you get away with it "probably" but there is zero people in the oil industry that would think that is a good idea, if if you get lspi and you loose that engine, it comes out of your wallet. Here's a good starting point link.
I'd use the best oil with a clean base oil and low calcium high magnesium and avoid dumping fuel in low rpm's, especially as the engine ages. sn+, high moly, there are a couple out there.
That was a good read in the link you provided . Seems like if you try to keep good spark plugs and keep fuel injectors clean and combustion chamber relatively clean you eliminate alot of the precursors that allow lspi . I'm not a paid spokesman for gumout one and done but I'm going to continue to use it .
Look at Chevron Supreme and Motor Craft synthetic stat sheet, they are about as opposed of a formula you can get, with the motor craft being far superior, no it isn't a sound strategy. The old we are gonna deny your warranty used to be illegal under Magnusum, but now specifically with di turbo's manu's can literally deny you coverage for running an oil that isn't in compliance with their spec. Research lspi, look at lspi quenchers like moly and lspi bad guys like calcium, and choose an oil that has the least chance of leaving anything in the cylinder that can pre ignite. Anyone can say anything here, and ofen do, but recomending a conventional oil to someone with a di turbo is irresponsible. Can you run it "sure", will you get away with it "probably" but there is zero people in the oil industry that would think that is a good idea, if if you get lspi and you loose that engine, it comes out of your wallet. Here's a good starting point link.
I'd use the best oil with a clean base oil and low calcium high magnesium and avoid dumping fuel in low rpm's, especially as the engine ages. sn+, high moly, there are a couple out there.
That was a good read in the link you provided . Seems like if you try to keep good spark plugs and keep fuel injectors clean and combustion chamber relatively clean you eliminate alot of the precursors that allow lspi . I'm not a paid spokesman for gumout one and done but I'm going to continue to use it .
Originally Posted by Corollaman
Originally Posted by ad244
Penny smart, dollar stupid
Is that original? Thanks for the useful help. I'll end up using synthetic but just had a simple question about a highly regarded dino oil.
I think he was being serious, "lo barato sale caro".
Originally Posted by ad244
Penny smart, dollar stupid
Is that original? Thanks for the useful help. I'll end up using synthetic but just had a simple question about a highly regarded dino oil.
I think he was being serious, "lo barato sale caro".
Originally Posted by Corollaman
Originally Posted by ad244
Penny smart, dollar stupid
Is that original? Thanks for the useful help. I'll end up using synthetic but just had a simple question about a highly regarded dino oil.
He can't tell you why this is true all he can do spout off marketing.
Originally Posted by ad244
Penny smart, dollar stupid
Is that original? Thanks for the useful help. I'll end up using synthetic but just had a simple question about a highly regarded dino oil.
He can't tell you why this is true all he can do spout off marketing.
Originally Posted by burla
Originally Posted by Corollaman
Originally Posted by ad244
Penny smart, dollar stupid
Is that original? Thanks for the useful help. I'll end up using synthetic but just had a simple question about a highly regarded dino oil.
I think he was being serious, "lo barato sale caro".
And are you able to explain how this is true? Marketing baloney does not apply.
Originally Posted by Corollaman
Originally Posted by ad244
Penny smart, dollar stupid
Is that original? Thanks for the useful help. I'll end up using synthetic but just had a simple question about a highly regarded dino oil.
I think he was being serious, "lo barato sale caro".
And are you able to explain how this is true? Marketing baloney does not apply.
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by burla
Originally Posted by Corollaman
Originally Posted by ad244
Penny smart, dollar stupid
Is that original? Thanks for the useful help. I'll end up using synthetic but just had a simple question about a highly regarded dino oil.
I think he was being serious, "lo barato sale caro".
And are you able to explain how this is true? Marketing baloney does not apply.
The entire oil industry is besides itself trying to come up with the gf-6 spec, as in the goals simply cannot be met, They can't protect the timing chains and guard against lspi plus make fuel mileage goals. How many times has the deadline been pushed back, years and years. Every single Non-Marketing entity involved in this is most concerned with lspi, as in the entire market is heading in this direction, the direction of the di turbo. Every single non marleting entity such as producers of oils and additives not marketed to the mass public but only to the oil companies, all have their scientific studies on this. Case and point, infineum and Oronite, to name a couple, use your google for more. And you and your infinite wisdom in a thread where some dude wants to run some generic conventional oil in his expensive eco boost engine come up with, wait what was it, "Marketing baloney".
If someone follows your recomendations for oil they get what they get. But I for one post stuff that has nothing to do with marketing, only what the idustry says is the issue. Most guys love the eco boost, best thing since sliced bread. But you only have to be wrong once, run some stupid conventional oil and punch it in low rpm's and pray, because pray is all you have, science is against you.
Originally Posted by burla
Originally Posted by Corollaman
Originally Posted by ad244
Penny smart, dollar stupid
Is that original? Thanks for the useful help. I'll end up using synthetic but just had a simple question about a highly regarded dino oil.
I think he was being serious, "lo barato sale caro".
And are you able to explain how this is true? Marketing baloney does not apply.
The entire oil industry is besides itself trying to come up with the gf-6 spec, as in the goals simply cannot be met, They can't protect the timing chains and guard against lspi plus make fuel mileage goals. How many times has the deadline been pushed back, years and years. Every single Non-Marketing entity involved in this is most concerned with lspi, as in the entire market is heading in this direction, the direction of the di turbo. Every single non marleting entity such as producers of oils and additives not marketed to the mass public but only to the oil companies, all have their scientific studies on this. Case and point, infineum and Oronite, to name a couple, use your google for more. And you and your infinite wisdom in a thread where some dude wants to run some generic conventional oil in his expensive eco boost engine come up with, wait what was it, "Marketing baloney".
If someone follows your recomendations for oil they get what they get. But I for one post stuff that has nothing to do with marketing, only what the idustry says is the issue. Most guys love the eco boost, best thing since sliced bread. But you only have to be wrong once, run some stupid conventional oil and punch it in low rpm's and pray, because pray is all you have, science is against you.
Thank you for all the info, I've never owned a turbo before. After buying a car I've always checked the oil cap for the correct viscosity (5w30) in my case and looked for the oil spec in my owner's manual which Chevron Supreme 5w30 says it meets on their data sheet and went from there. Based upon that information there must be a lot of ford ecoboost vehicle owners running non synthetic oils. I'll most likely run a synthetic based on the info provided here, I've just gotten used to following the owner's manual.
Normally I would say go for it, but you should check for service bulletins for your eco boost to see if it has been retroactively assigned "b" spec. The PDS for chevron 5w30s both supreme and deposit shield are still"a" meaning they haven't updated to current ford approvals, however the synthetic deposit shield is Dwxos approved in 5w30 meaning it is formulated correctly for that type of motor.
I would point you at the 5w30 Havoline Pro DS.
Originally Posted by Corollaman
The owners manual spec is wss-m2c946-a 5w30, Chevron data sheet says it meets the spec. Granted this is a turbo, I do 5,000 mile oil changes. I've used Chevron Supreme in the past with good results, and in comparison to motorcraft 5w30 semi synthetic is there much of a difference? How much synthetic oil is in the semi synthetic motorcraft? I remember some posts here a long time ago talking about how Chevron oils were hydrocracked (or something like that) and they were basically semi synthetics anyways. Thanks for any info.
I would point you at the 5w30 Havoline Pro DS.
Originally Posted by Corollaman
The owners manual spec is wss-m2c946-a 5w30, Chevron data sheet says it meets the spec. Granted this is a turbo, I do 5,000 mile oil changes. I've used Chevron Supreme in the past with good results, and in comparison to motorcraft 5w30 semi synthetic is there much of a difference? How much synthetic oil is in the semi synthetic motorcraft? I remember some posts here a long time ago talking about how Chevron oils were hydrocracked (or something like that) and they were basically semi synthetics anyways. Thanks for any info.
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