2006 Ford Five Hundred under valve cover pics, 186k miles conventional oil
- Thread starter celicaxx
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The engine looks great and hopefully it will last many more years.
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Definitely more ugly, similar to what we see with a lot of traverse V6 engines with the rear bank.So I want to be honest with the condition, good and bad. The back bank while not horrible, definitely has some real varnish and not just the patina color. The back bank has an actual PCV valve, whereas the front back is just vented via a tube. I didn't change the PCV the whole time we've owned it.So it's getting changed now finally, thankfully. PCV wasn't stuck, it still moved, but still, should have been changed. I think the bigger problem, though, is being so close to the firewall, there's no airflow to that bank of cylinders compared to the front, so it gets a lot hotter. The valve cover gaskets in back were a lot more rigid and hard compared to the front.
So anyway, back bank doesn't have as good pictures, it was nearing dusk and I didn't finish tonight.
As far as why did I use "conventional" oil, it had a little leak in the valve covers and I found cheaper ST conventional made it leak less, mainly. But also, I had a Mitsubishi Galant that had a happy life on Supertech conventional with 5-7K oil changes for about 50,000 miles, and one day I put in Rotella 10w30 "synthetic blend" to try to clean things out for no real reason, and it shortly after developed a very large crank seal leak when it used maybe a quart between changes prior. (Maybe the extra detergents were the cause and not the oil itself.) Also, under the Galant's valve cover was pretty similar to these pics, some varnish, but no sludge. My Sentra was the first car I ever had with actual sludge. With the Galant, though, I was quite religious about cleaning or changing the PCV valve every year or so.
I think if I got a newer car with less miles, I would definitely use synthetic, especially because I have a Costco membership now.
Obviously conventional is in quotes, as I do realize since API SN at least conventional has been semi-synthetic. I've had trouble explaining this to stubborn Boomers at auto parts stores complaining about the lack of conventional oil as of this year. I'm usually met with hostility explaining they've been using semi-synthetic for the last decade or so, but oh well.
Anyway, wish me luck tomorrow with getting this all done.
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Man, what happened to Mobil Super? I used to use that oil all the time.
Curious if the oil consumption will go down with then new PCV valve. Couldn't tell if the rear main is still leaking or if that stopped/was fixed. Engine looks good for the mileage.
Under the valve cover - It looks great based on your photos. Based on the history you provided, in your case engine cleanliness seemed to depend on your frequent 5k oil change (not with the type of oil used).
I prefer the same with my vehicles. I do 4k/6month oil change interval with a good low priced full synthetic, so the oil is not in the engine long enough to form varnish/sludge, and stays clean throughout the oil change interval. The full synthetic oil I use is only $4 a quart with 5 quart jug (sometimes $2 a quart when I buy other brands full synthetic oil on clearance from Tractor Supply).
I just wanted a recipe for low cost simple maintenance that will allow me to never experience varnish/sludge in any of my vehicles for the rest of my life.
I prefer the same with my vehicles. I do 4k/6month oil change interval with a good low priced full synthetic, so the oil is not in the engine long enough to form varnish/sludge, and stays clean throughout the oil change interval. The full synthetic oil I use is only $4 a quart with 5 quart jug (sometimes $2 a quart when I buy other brands full synthetic oil on clearance from Tractor Supply).
I just wanted a recipe for low cost simple maintenance that will allow me to never experience varnish/sludge in any of my vehicles for the rest of my life.
Had a 5.4L 2V that I swapped out for a built version at 135K. Nothing wrong with the motor, it had that same coloration to the internal parts and had always had Mobil 1 oil since new on 5k changes.
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BiL‘s 5.3L did 400k on that oil and the cheap change filter …
Guess it was “Drive Clean” for some of that period …
I would suggest changing the air filter so often is not necessary. Some time and money could be saved.
Change the water pump at your first opportunity. You need to be proactive with this while you have the car apart. I had a '98 Taurus wagon with the same 3.0 DOHC engine and the impeller had eroded away at about 219,000 miles, causing fatal overheating because the coolant wasn't circulating.
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I have the same vehicle --- 2006 Mercury Montego (aka Ford Five Hundred).
These cars are hidden gems and can frequently be found with low miles, and for cheap. They are essentially Volvo platforms, and the suspension looks just like a Volve XC-90. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Five_Hundred
Transmission is either a CVT or a 6-speed Aisin AWF21 aka TF80, built in Japan. I have the 6-speed.
The 3.0 Duratec is very reliable, but somewhat underpowered. Works fine. Just not a fast car. I have the 6 speed transmission, and shifts fine, if not fast. Overall a great, very roomy car.
Issues with the engine to be aware of include using the correct water pump replacement (use a bolt and not a "keyed" water pump). The water pump runs off the cam shaft.
Also, the camshaft caps can come loose (has not happened to me).
Finally, the AC compressor can develop a leak, or issue with the control valve.
Otherwise, great vehicles!
Thanks for the info !
I did the AC control valve a few years ago on mine. Wasn't hard at all, thankfully.
I have the CVT, haven't touched the fluid in it in 190K miles.
I've been having a lot of issues since this post, chasing a lean code CEL, and also a few vacuum leaks which I seem to have solved, but still have a lean code CEL. The other mechanic I took it to thinks it could be an exhaust leak near the back bank o2 sensor causing it, who knows. Very frustrating, though.
For oil, I took a chance last week and switched it to the Mobil Super 10w30 I had lying around, and I do think it runs smoother with 10w30, but the rest of my supply except some topoff quarts is 5w20 and 5w30, so that'll be what it gets. I'm assuming the 10w30 should be done with its OCI by winter, too.
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I did the AC control valve a few years ago on mine. Wasn't hard at all, thankfully.
I have the CVT, haven't touched the fluid in it in 190K miles.
I've been having a lot of issues since this post, chasing a lean code CEL, and also a few vacuum leaks which I seem to have solved, but still have a lean code CEL. The other mechanic I took it to thinks it could be an exhaust leak near the back bank o2 sensor causing it, who knows. Very frustrating, though.
For oil, I took a chance last week and switched it to the Mobil Super 10w30 I had lying around, and I do think it runs smoother with 10w30, but the rest of my supply except some topoff quarts is 5w20 and 5w30, so that'll be what it gets. I'm assuming the 10w30 should be done with its OCI by winter, too.
I recently had to change the EGR on mine, as the MAP went bad and is integrated into the EGR.
This job required removing the intake manifold so that I could get the EGR off. When I did this, some of the vacuum lines were extremely brittle and cracked. I ended up having to make my own vacuum line assembly with some vacuum tubing I ordered and some splitters. I also replaced the intake manifold gaskets at the same time. There is also a gasket that holds the EGR pipe in that can get brittle. I can see how this (especially the brittle vacuum line assembly) could easily be the location of a vacuum leak.
This is the part I had to make on my own as it is unavailable from Ford.
2005-2007 FORD FIVE HUNDRED 3.0L ENGINE EMISSION VACUUM LINE HOSES OEM 206350
2005-2007 FORD FIVE HUNDRED 3.0L ENGINE EMISSION VACUUM LINE HOSES OEM 206350OEM, Buy With Confidence, 60 Days Free Return!!Donor Vehicle VIN: 1FMZK06105GA24293 Make FORD Model: FREESTYLE Year: 2005 Mileage: 190000 (0 = not available or unknown) Stock Number: AA0615 Part Grade: A Part Category...
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Good looking top end!
Say that anywhere else and you’re gonna find yourself getting slapped.
What this proves is that all the oils in the Walmart oil section are pretty darn good.
I always prefer the Aisin automatics on these units. I actually have a Montego, a Five Hundred, and a Taurus X for sale right now.
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If you're looking for a Ford car to own for a long haul that has excellent real-world safety and gets decent fuel economy numbers, the 3.0L/Aisin in these models and the Fusion with the 2.5L are bar none the best Ford ever made.
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If you're looking for a Ford car to own for a long haul that has excellent real-world safety and gets decent fuel economy numbers, the 3.0L/Aisin in these models and the Fusion with the 2.5L are bar none the best Ford ever made.