Ceramic window tint cost vs. benefit

[92saturnsl2]

I finally got a chance to call about getting the windows on my '18 Regal Tour-X tinted. A couple guys at work recommended a small (1-2 man) shop nearby that guarantees their work with a lifetime warranty. They want $285 for 20% regular tint (didn't specify whether it was cheap dyed type or something more premium) and an extra $100 for 18% ceramic tint.

The price doesn't seem out of line given the warranty and their reputation. However, the extra $100 for the ceramic-- is the juice worth the squeeze? Primarily I'm looking for 3 things in this order:

a) UV protection
b) heat rejection
c) privacy

Is the extra $100 for ceramic worth it? If the ceramic makes a huge difference, I have no problems with that. It's just that I've never used it before and I've always been happy with regular tint installed by a professional. Any thoughts on this?

Regarding VLT percentage, this vehicle has a pseudo factory tint (very light) that uses no film. All the windows (except windshield) have 70% min. noted on them next to the manufacturer/safety info. If I apply the 18% [ceramic] or 20% [regular] tint, will the tints combine to make it too dark and by how much? I'm not looking for limo tint by any means, just something reasonably dark.

I've never known anyone to get pulled over or ticketed for tint here, despite some of my friends/acquaintances having seriously dark tint applied-- one also did his windshield which he's had no trouble over. So I don't care about how dark, just don't want to be blind at night (I have good eyesight).

 

[Skippy722]

I had 20% metallized tint on my 300 and 20% ceramic on my Caliber. I feel that both did the same, never any experience with dyed tint but I’d avoid it since it seems they tend to turn purple over time. The metallized tint was a bit more reflective when looking at the outside.

The 300 had the same 70% min factory tint, and I didn’t have any problem backing into my unlit garage or anything. According to a calculator I found, 70%+18% will net you 13%. The 300 looks super dark because the interior was all black and I kept the panoramic sunshade closed all the time.

And here’s an interior shot with the shade open

 

[2010Civic]

I wouldn't go that dark. 30-35% is more my liking.

 

[Cujet]

I have the ceramic tint on my 2003 Jag X-type. The tint is from 2006. It has not discolored or lost clarity. Still looks great, unlike the lower end neutral grey (smoke) tints that turn purple after a few years in the South Florida sun.

The color is a slightly reflective silver that does not show in this picture. Really looks good. Although, as I've gotten much older, I find myself lowering the windows at night to make turns... But other than that one issue, it is glorious at night, blocking just the right amount of rearview and side mirror headlight glare from following cars. Love it.

Note: the tint's overall appearance is much like the reflection of the top of the drivers door window. Kind of silvery. Matches the car well.

 

[Leo99]

When I got my Camry tinted the cost difference was like $70 for the standard tint vs the top tint that the shop had so I went for the best they had. It looks as good today as it did in 2015.

 

[oldhp]

2022 RAM 1500 regular cab. I had the front window brows, side glass and back glass done for $240 with the best ceramic, highest UV rejection he had. I forget the percent. The side windows match the rear glass on tint percentage. I have had small skin cancers and some pre-skin cancers so I wanted the highest UV I could get. The difference in heat rejection is amazing. My left arm DOES NOT get hot any more driving west with the sun coming thru side glass. Get the best ceramic you can buy. To me, it's worth it.

 

[SaberOne]

I tinted to the piss out of mine with the similar stuff, but it’s really hard to tell whether it’s worth it. Seems to be holding up after 6-1/2 years so that’s all that matters to me.

 

[92saturnsl2]

I had 20% metallized tint on my 300 and 20% ceramic on my Caliber. I feel that both did the same, never any experience with dyed tint but I’d avoid it since it seems they tend to turn purple over time. The metallized tint was a bit more reflective when looking at the outside.

The 300 had the same 70% min factory tint, and I didn’t have any problem backing into my unlit garage or anything. According to a calculator I found, 70%+18% will net you 13%.

Thank you for those numbers, that helps tremendously.

My '96 Maxima has some pretty dark tint done in the 90's that was likely the dyed type. It's just beginning to get that purple hue after 20-something years, but it has recently begun to pick up scratches easily due to age. I'd estimate it at 10% or so (car came from Nevada where sun is brutal) and I don't have trouble seeing through it. On a rare occasion I'll have to roll the front windows down in dark/overcast daytime conditions when turning onto a major road.

If the 70% + 18% = 13% holds true, I think that's probably as dark as I'd ever go, but should be fine and would look good on this car. I'll have a chat with the guy that does the tint to see if they have ceramic in something lighter-- 25% would be nice; something that adds up to around 20% with existing window tint would be ideal.

It seems the consensus is that ceramic is worth the extra cost.

 

[ctechbob]

To be legal, Kentucky says no darker than 35% front 18% rear for a sedan. Same for SUV/Trucks except the rear can be 8%.

You'd be looking at a 40%ish to keep the fronts legal.

Tint is one of those things where it seems you either have no problems with it in the area and LE's just don't care, or you have the overbearing types where they stop everyone for it. I've been pulled over exactly twice in 30-something years of driving, no ticket either time.

Fun fact. Here in Georgia, window tint is a finger printable crime......why? No one seems to know, none of us in Law Enforcement can quite figure out how that one made the list. I'll see it occasionally come in the back door, but I don't think I've ever seen it as the sole case for the arrest, mostly, it is tacked on just because. Usually when the person has led the officers on a chase or something like that.

 

[Torrid]

The regular stuff is fine, it's not the prone to fade dyed stuff of years back, but the benefit of ceramic is how it blocks heat. The only concern really is that it could block some signals with the metal base that could have been slightly annoying in the VW and probably a huge problem in the Tesla since it operates locking and unlocking using a phone connection. I feel it's well worth the extra cost in my opinion for the heat rejection anyway. I have 20% ceramic on both. I think it was about $100 extra for ceramic.

 

[Hall]

Our son has Avery Dennison ceramic tint on his car. I have unknown brand 35% non-ceramic on my car and my wife's has 3M 20% non-ceramic. Getting in his car on a HOT, sunny day, it absolutely feels cooler compared to our cars. It is 2x the cost though.... That's the going up-charge around here too, not $100 more. In fact, it cost him almost $700 for his Accord about 2 years ago and $550 for a different car ~4 years ago.

I had the front window brows, side glass and back glass done for $240 with the best ceramic

I realize it's 2 fewer windows but that's a steal, especially for ceramic tint !

 

[TiGeo]

Yes it is. I have tint on all of our vehicles and the ones with the ceramic do stay cooler than the ones with the cheaper normal tint.

 

[Finklejag]

You can go lighter with a ceramic then a dyed tint, and get the same heat reduction and uv rejection. Even some 70% ceramics will outperform a 20% dyed.

 

[loneryder]

The ceramic will block more heat. I just had a car tinted this past April. The place had a display set up with the various grades of tint mounted over heat lamps. Of course the cheapest(advertised) price blocked very little heat. I didn’t get it but the ceramic blocked the most heat and was the most expensive.

 

[Deamos]

I have the ceramic tint on my 2003 Jag X-type. The tint is from 2006. It has not discolored or lost clarity. Still looks great, unlike the lower end neutral grey (smoke) tints that turn purple after a few years in the South Florida sun.

The color is a slightly reflective silver that does not show in this picture. Really looks good. Although, as I've gotten much older, I find myself lowering the windows at night to make turns... But other than that one issue, it is glorious at night, blocking just the right amount of rearview and side mirror headlight glare from following cars. Love it.

Note: the tint's overall appearance is much like the reflection of the top of the drivers door window. Kind of silvery. Matches the car well.

I know this is off-topic. I had a 2003 (Pacific?) blue with white interior X-type that I loved; it was a joy to drive, and it makes me happy to see that there are well-cared-for examples still out there.

I miss mine and wish I had been able to keep it as a pleasure car.

 

[92saturnsl2]

I've decided to go with the ceramic tint. Would be dumb not to for $100, since I intend to keep this car for many years. Any tint I've had applied by a professional has always turned out great. Keeping my fingers crossed this will be the same.

KY law allows 35% front side windows and different allowances for the back side windows/rear depending on if you have a "SUV car / van" or if you have a sedan. 8% for the former and 18% for the latter. They're not specific about wagons but I'm going to arbitrarily call mine an SUV car.

In short I'll go with the 18% ceramic on back sides/rear which will combine with the factory 70% glass to yield 12.6% VLT according to online calculators. In the front I'm going to ask him to hit somewhere between 20-35 VLT (hoping toward the lower end) when the factory tinted glass is factored in. I feel as though 12.6% would be too dark and I'd be back to rolling down my front windows in rain/overcast to turn onto busy highways.

 

[92saturnsl2]

Got the tint done, went with the 18% ceramic all around and it turned out great. I thought it would be too dark on the front windows, but it's just about right IMO. Definitely not a "pull me over please" darkness-- after seeing the couple other cars in the parking lot that had recently been done with near-limo tint and super dark tinted windshields, I feel the cops have bigger fish to fry.

I never asked what brand/quality tint they used, but when in the shop picking it up, every box of tint (in plain sight) was XPEL brand. After looking at XPEL's product offerings, I have to assume mine is the XR PLUS 20, which is their only ceramic at 18% VLT.

There are a few imperfections if you examine it super closely and small bubbles here and there which I've heard will flatten out within a week or so. I'll be keeping an eye on it. Really transformed the look of the car in a good way.

 

[Hall]

There are a few imperfections if you examine it super closely and small bubbles here and there which I've heard will flatten out within a week or so. I'll be keeping an eye on it.

I've never heard that.... It should be 100% perfect from day one. Definitely stay on top of it and don't take any claims of "that's normal" from them.

 

[loneryder]

Got the tint done, went with the 18% ceramic all around and it turned out great. I thought it would be too dark on the front windows, but it's just about right IMO. Definitely not a "pull me over please" darkness-- after seeing the couple other cars in the parking lot that had recently been done with near-limo tint and super dark tinted windshields, I feel the cops have bigger fish to fry.

I never asked what brand/quality tint they used, but when in the shop picking it up, every box of tint (in plain sight) was XPEL brand. After looking at XPEL's product offerings, I have to assume mine is the XR PLUS 20, which is their only ceramic at 18% VLT.

There are a few imperfections if you examine it super closely and small bubbles here and there which I've heard will flatten out within a week or so. I'll be keeping an eye on it. Really transformed the look of the car in a good way.

Yes most of the tiny bubbles will dry up and disappear.

 

[92saturnsl2]

Yes most of the tiny bubbles will dry up and disappear.

Most are gone within the first day. I can still spot two on the driver's front window, but I suspect they'll blend in like the others did. Has been overcast and cloudy since I had it done, I've read that heat/direct sunlight will clear them up quickly.

Really needs a good cleaning, there's residue from whatever spray they used to apply it, but I'm going to wait the 3-4 days they say to be gentle on it.