Castrol Syntec Blend- New/Old

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I got to looking at the labels on bottles of 5W-30 Syntec Blend in my shop and noted some differences.

Older Bottle ('02-'03):

Pre BP, ot marked with BP Group Symbol
API- SL/SJ/SH
API Certified
ILSAC GF-3/GF-4
ACEA- A1
Japanese Engine Wear Test

Newer Bottle ('05):

Marked with BP symbols
Marked "Increased Fuel Economy"
API- SM/SL/SJ/ SH
API Certified
ILSAC- GF-4/GF-3/GF-2
Ford WSS-M2C929-A
GM-6094M

There is no mention of ACEA specs at all on the newer bottle, though I have recently read people on the list say the American Syntec Blend is an A-5 oil. If so, the bottle is not so marked and the Castrol Data Sheet does not list it as such. Is the new stuff really A-5 rated, or not? Even the full Syntec is only an A-3. Anyone have insights on this? Finally, has anyone yet determined whether the "blend" is PAO or G-III.
 
If it's not on the bottle, I can't imagine that Castrol would spend money and time on certs and not print them on the bottle. Also, you have to watch out for the wording. Approved and recomended are not the same thing. I would be careful about accepting anything like, 'trust me, it's ok, even if it's not on the bottle', or, 'it's ok, this oil is recommended (not approved)'. If you can figure out what the oil is, find one you feel better about using. Castrol makes good stuff, but you have to wonder, sometimes, what you are really paying for, synthetic or conventional and if a blend, what percent?
 
Jim,

It's a Group III blend, BTW you can get Castrol Syn Blend for less than $1 at your local Target.....and GTX for 48 cents per Qt.

I don't know if its a mistake or just a pricing error.
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BTW you can get Castrol Syn Blend for less than $1 at your local Target.....and GTX for 48 cents per Qt.


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WHAT???? I need to check my local Target. Because if that's the case, then I'm sorry but my GC stash will have to be put on the back burner. No offence to my beloved GC, but, I doubt my P.O.S. Grand Am will last long enough to benefit from the GC...
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Jim, don't assume that a higher ACEA number means a higher grade of oil. Actually, A3/B3 is a more restrictive grade than A5/B5. Oils that meet Mercedes and VW specs are A3/B3. There is a posting with a link somewhere on this site to one that lists the actual different requirements for each of the ACEA specs.
 
I just checked the Castrol website. Only the Syntec carries the ACEA ratings. 5W-30 and 10W-30 are A1/B1 A5/B5. 0W-30(GC) and higher viscosities are A3/B3 B4. 5W-20 does not carry an ACEA rating.
 
A3 and A5 are both equally stringent extended drain specs, it's just that A5 is for low HTHS oils 3.5. That's the only difference between the two specs.

NB: As you can see the HTHS specs for A3 and A5 make them mutually exclusive. If you see an oil that is rated both A3 and A5 you know the company who made the oil is FOS and you can't trust anything on the label to be true.
 
UK 10w-40 GTX Magnatec is A3-rated. Probally the same as Start-Up, same label. Someone (G-Man
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) could peek at the PDS to take a guess. I suppose Castrol wants USA customers to pony up for Syntec if the want A3 spec. I sorta think Syntec Blend 10w-40 would make the spec, 10w-40 DuraBlend made it as well as Delo and GTX Diesel.
 
Gents, though the point in my post was merely to note the differences between the pre-BP and post-BP versions, it looks like we went beyond. The Syntec Blend formulations appear to have changed for the better (API SL to SM). The ACEA A-1 rating was dropped none is shown on the new bottle. I have one OC of post BP 5W-30 Syntec Blend to use up and then I may be switching. To what is TBD. My philosophy is to buy the "mostest for leastest" so it will have to be something commonly available on sale at reasonable prices but on whose quality one can depend. The Castrol brand certainly fits those criteria... but so do others. Been using Castrol in my cars, SUVs and gas-powered trucks since the early 1970s, mostly from force of habit and the knowledge that I can depend on the oil without having to think about it much. Even if I go back with Castrol, it's good to re-evaluate your choices... every 35 years or so! The idea mentioned of using a dino oil and adding a quart or two of the most compatable same-brand full syn is an appealing concept for a cheap SOB like me.
 
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