Cartridge vs. cannister style oil filters...pros/cons?

TiGeo

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What are the differences and what are the advantages and disadvantages of the two types?

To me cartridge is nice because the drain back valve bits are separate from the filter and its engineeeing/design/function is fixed..you just change the filter media. Some allow draining of the oil before removing it (3/4 of my VWs are this way) which is also a nice feature.

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I like the ease of inspection on the cartridge style media, and in the case of Toyota, they are cheaper on average than a can. Plus, you can inspect the whole thing, pre install. As with a can, you are kind of taking their word that it is good.

I used to cringe at the cartridge filter, but all in all, I think they are better, provided the carrier of the cartridge and the rest of the system is good..
My guess is that lube techs were screwing things up. If I were having others do my oil changes, I’d much prefer canister as there is less opportunity for the lube tech to screw up......
Quite possible and agreed. I've seen several anecdotes where the Toyota OE housing gets cracked on removal mostly from previous overtightening, at least one from a dealer OC. Members have posted here an improved (metal iirc) housing and/or removal tool. While no personal experience with it, being on engine bottom and design, not my favorite cartridge design.
 
I'm stuck on the advantage of a well engineered and consistent drain/pressure valve/system vs. relying on the filter to have this which of course will vary manufacturer to manufacturer/filter to filter as the main advantage of doing it this way.
Yes, but with a canister filter you are replacing all those parts every oil change, so long term viability isn’t an issue. It’s also cheaper at OEM to implement. It’s also easier to implement an engine oil cooler generally. As can be a scene from some examples above, the cartridge housing can cause significant issues when done poorly.

It all boils down to which set of problems you want to manage? Which is probably why some OEM do it one way and some do it the other. Ie it’s preference.

Perfect thread for BITOG. No clear solution.
 
Yes, but with a canister filter you are replacing all those parts every oil change, so long term viability isn’t an issue. It’s also cheaper at OEM to implement. It’s also easier to implement an engine oil cooler generally. As can be a scene from some examples above, the cartridge housing can cause significant issues when done poorly.

It all boils down to which set of problems you want to manage? Which is probably why some OEM do it one way and some do it the other. Ie it’s preference.

Perfect thread for BITOG. No clear solution.
So for my Passat, the oil cooler/filter housing for the cartridge is external/separate from the engine on the bottom over by the right side wheel well. On the Sportwagen, it's on top and somewhat easy to deal with if the cooler goes, but do have to do some digging/removal of the intake manifold.
 
Yes, but with a canister filter you are replacing all those parts every oil change, so long term viability isn’t an issue.
I was also going to mention this. The ADBV and bypass valve has to be built into the cartridge filter housing, and those components could have the possibility of failing over time. Might be hard to know when they do start failing.
 
And Toyotas well take a look at an older Tacoma, 4Runner or FJ with the 4.0 six. Canister filter mounted up top about the easiest to change you’ll find just like many Subarus…
 
I enjoy the best of both worlds.

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No big difference to me as far as replacement work.
One thing I'm wondering when I see some spin-on filters cut that have large chunks of carbon/gunk on bottom of can - where do those chunks go with cartridge style filter with housing on top of engine? They get trapped in spin-on as they cannot pass thru media but large enough to not get stuck in the media so they just float between can walls and media and get removed from the flow along with the filter.
 
One thing I'm wondering when I see some spin-on filters cut that have large chunks of carbon/gunk on bottom of can - where do those chunks go with cartridge style filter with housing on top of engine? They get trapped in spin-on as they cannot pass thru media but large enough to not get stuck in the media so they just float between can walls and media and get removed from the flow along with the filter.
Those type of carbon chunks could potentially lay around in the cartridge housing. If the cartridge housing is vertical on top of the engine, then debris could be laying at the bottom of the housing. If the cartridge housing is vertical on the bottom of the engine, then the debris could be laying in the housing cap. People with a cartridge filter should inspect the housing for left over debris before installing a new filter cartridge.
 
https://scottsusave.com/3-6l-pentas...Typical Cost,aluminum housing is around $800.

The Macan has a cartridge under the engine. Not easier and and just as messy as a canister change like on the rest of my vehicles. With a canister you get a new anti-drainback and bypass valve with every change...never wears out. the cartridge housings are available everywhere as they seem to need replacing every once in a while as well.

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I prefer a canister.
 
https://scottsusave.com/3-6l-pentas...Typical Cost,aluminum housing is around $800.

The Macan has a cartridge under the engine. Not easier and and just as messy as a canister change like on the rest of my vehicles. With a canister you get a new anti-drainback and bypass valve with every change...never wears out. the cartridge housings are available everywhere as they seem to need replacing every once in a while as well.

View attachment 253753

I prefer a canister.
This is what our Atlas has/same one. For bottom mounted, I like my Passat (and son's GTI) b/c it has the drain feature.
 
I like the ease of inspection on the cartridge style media, and in the case of Toyota, they are cheaper on average than a can. Plus, you can inspect the whole thing, pre install. As with a can, you are kind of taking their word that it is good.

I used to cringe at the cartridge filter, but all in all, I think they are better, provided the carrier of the cartridge and the rest of the system is good..
You have won w/3 up votes for your answer. Congrats. Now you are immortalized. I can only hope to reach this level of BITOG-ness at some point...
Screenshot 2024-12-11 165549.webp
 
You have won w/3 up votes for your answer. Congrats. Now you are immortalized. I can only hope to reach this level of BITOG-ness at some point...View attachment 253765
Very nice. Thanks I think......... I do not know how to view "notable members page"

To be honest, I could not care less about "likes". I just care about sharing my opinion with others on the site, and moreover, learning more about the topics that are discussed.

Glad you get a kick out of it, once again, I think. :)

Oh, now I see "THe Solution" thing in your post now. I have not seen that before, very informative, kind of like an Amazon review......never seen that function on here before.
 
I've had cars with both and prefer spin-ons.
In some applications I've had getting the filter housing to seal properly can be quite fiddly.
You'd be amazed at how quickly an old BMW can blow out an entire quart of M1 15W-50 just because you positioned the copper washer on the housing through bolt incorrectly.
 
Late to the party, but here it goes. I don't see much difference between the 2 systems, if the cartridge is designed properly. The cartridge takes the lead in cleanliness compared to a spin on.

I've had German vehicles with cartridge filters for more than 1 million miles and no problem with them whatsoever. 800k on a Mercedes sprinter, never had to replace any parts of the system.

Now on the POS Pentastar, while not necessarily the fault of the oil filter housing itself, it started leaking at around 250k miles. I guess it is a combination of the design, where the oil filter housing and oil cooler are combined in a single unit and connected with 5 o-rings to the block , combined with the plastic material the whole piece of junk is made out of. I replaced it with an aluminum unit and hopefully it will last longer than the original one.

I also have never seen any carbon built up anywhere in the oil filter housing, even at 800k miles. But I haven't seen pieces of carbon in any of my vehicle's spin on filters when I cut them open either. Maybe it is just a factor of how well I take care of my vehicles.
 
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