Cartridge vs. cannister style oil filters...pros/cons?

TiGeo

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What are the differences and what are the advantages and disadvantages of the two types?

To me cartridge is nice because the drain back valve bits are separate from the filter and its engineeeing/design/function is fixed..you just change the filter media. Some allow draining of the oil before removing it (3/4 of my VWs are this way) which is also a nice feature.

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I like the ease of inspection on the cartridge style media, and in the case of Toyota, they are cheaper on average than a can. Plus, you can inspect the whole thing, pre install. As with a can, you are kind of taking their word that it is good.

I used to cringe at the cartridge filter, but all in all, I think they are better, provided the carrier of the cartridge and the rest of the system is good..
I like the ease of inspection on the cartridge style media, and in the case of Toyota, they are cheaper on average than a can. Plus, you can inspect the whole thing, pre install. As with a can, you are kind of taking their word that it is good.

I used to cringe at the cartridge filter, but all in all, I think they are better, provided the carrier of the cartridge and the rest of the system is good..
 
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The cartridge filter may be more of a pain to install but there are more parts in a spin-on filter and more that can go wrong. As we see in ones that are cut open.
 
I prefer cartridge, no cutting required. I understand the grief of wrong filter, and that many have ham-fisted plastic housings, but, just because some do it wrong doesn't mean everyone will. I never had a problem with mine, not after many oil changes (20+ per vehicle).

To me, the most grief I have with cartridge is buying the special socket per housing. Not a huge deal nor cost, but a "one size fits all" pair of pliers seems to do all cannisters. Otherwise, it's about the same amount of mess and problems (assuming no one overtightened anything).
 
To me cartridge is nice because the drain back valve bits are separate from the filter and its engineeeing/design/function is fixed..you just change the filter media.
The cartridge filter bypass valve is also built-in to the filter housing or in the engine if it's not in the housing. One possible disadvantage is if it's set relatively low, and the filter cartridge element is relatively flow restrictive, the bypass valve could be opening more than it should. Designers of spin-on filters can set the internal bypass valve to whatever they want and take into consideration the filter media dP vs flow performance. This is why you can look at 10 different spin-on filter brands/models for the same engine and see a difference in their bypass valve setting.
 
A properly-engineered cartridge filter implementation is better than a traditional spin-on for reasons already listed -- easy access, fast no-crawl changes with an oil extractor, less waste in terms of the filter construction, etc. I will never miss having oil running down my arm, dribbling onto the floor, or splashing on locations where it shouldn't be, because the engine designers just slapped a bung onto the side of the block, with no regard for where it and the filter will end up when installed in the vehicle.

Proper = part of the engine design from the beginning, top side location, facing upward, not one of those afterthought designs where they just graft a housing onto the same location where a spin-in would have been before, and call it a day.

If it's hanging off the bottom of the engine, with the opening facing the ground, and a cap with a drain plug of its own, might as well have kept it simple, saved the trouble and retained the spin-on canister.

The Germans understand, and have been doing it for decades. If they've messed up, it's in adopting the plastic caps and not sticking with the full-metal canisters, including the cover.
 
I see no mess difference as well; I don't use the extra drain screw on the bottom of the Toyota housing. I just spin it off and replace the 1 oring.
I was always tempted to spin it off once, put on a new o-ring, then use red Locktite or whatever on reassembly. Then instead of needing the special tool I could just use any 3/8" drive. Had they not bothered with that drain, I have to wonder--would they have,, or could they have, just gone with that? How wonderful that would have been!

Don't know how many Jiffy Lube techs we have here, nor Toyota techs, but I have to wonder, if they bother with the drain too, or if they just drop the works and ignore the drain feature.
 
It makes no difference to me. The procedure is mostly the same using good quality tools and equipment. I use a torque wrench on both the filter (or cartridge housing) and drain plug so everything is consistent.
 
I’ll take a spin on any day. Cartridge are messy and time consuming
How? My top mount ones can't get any easier and cleaner. Bottom mount with drain is clean and easy.
Spin on is better because they're frequently mounted so pre-fill is easier, and they don't involve plastic composite housings.which fail.

Cartridge is typically more convenient.
I've never heard of the housings failing.
 
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