May sound crazy to some as the car calls for 0w20 BUT...I was given 5 cases of this stuff from a friend of mine. It's probably 6 or 7 years old. He used to own a repair shop and got on sale and just never used it. I'd hate to let it go to waste so I figured I would run it in the subaru. Is the mxt suitable for cars and what would be a reasonable oci?
Can I run Mobil 1 MXT 10w40 in my 14 outback 2.5?
- Thread starter Doublehaul
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+1 Its not the thick oil loving EJ25 were all used too. Btw the drain plug is plastic and only turns a half turn to loosen or tighten. Its truly a weird experience.
My drain plug was steel...very standard looking 18mm. I replaced it with a fumoto valve regardless. What makes you think the 40wt is too thick? Not arguing just curious.
Oil is probably outside warranty spec. Why risk it?
Because I have 5 cases...no better reason really. The fb25 calls for 5w30 outside of the us and Canada...figured 10w40 wouldn't be too much a stretch. I was more concerned about the fact that it's motorcycle/atv Wet clutch oil and it's age.
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Idk but I did the first oil change on one the other day and it was plastic and only turned a half turn. It was the same putting it back on. It was very similar to the new ford 6.7 powerstroke.
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Does yours turn more than a half turn? Just curious.
Originally Posted By: Doublehaul
May sound crazy to some as the car calls for 0w20 BUT...I was given 5 cases of this stuff from a friend of mine. It's probably 6 or 7 years old. He used to own a repair shop and got on sale and just never used it. I'd hate to let it go to waste so I figured I would run it in the subaru. Is the mxt suitable for cars and what would be a reasonable oci?
Too thick. First it will make your engine less efficient. Perhaps more important, it may not function with your variable valves (AVLS?) system. Your engine has that, right? Mine does not.
I haven't messed with an AVLS system on a Subaru, but on Toyotas and Hondas, too thick oil will frequently result in the oil light coming on. I know, this doesn't make sense. But the car companies use hydraulic oil pressure to change the valve timing. In the process, they usually mount the oil pressure sender (for the idiot light) just beyond the camshaft. The metering holes in the camshaft/AVLS system are pretty small and quite far from the oil pump. If the oil is thick, it won't go through the holes and - bingo - oil light plus CEL plus no cruise control (why?) plus your girlfriend will leave you. On Toyotas, it doesn't really affect the engine running, since the variable valve system doesn't kick in most of the time. But, you still get the oil light, plus the CEL, etc.
Use thin oil! Sell the 10w40.
May sound crazy to some as the car calls for 0w20 BUT...I was given 5 cases of this stuff from a friend of mine. It's probably 6 or 7 years old. He used to own a repair shop and got on sale and just never used it. I'd hate to let it go to waste so I figured I would run it in the subaru. Is the mxt suitable for cars and what would be a reasonable oci?
Too thick. First it will make your engine less efficient. Perhaps more important, it may not function with your variable valves (AVLS?) system. Your engine has that, right? Mine does not.
I haven't messed with an AVLS system on a Subaru, but on Toyotas and Hondas, too thick oil will frequently result in the oil light coming on. I know, this doesn't make sense. But the car companies use hydraulic oil pressure to change the valve timing. In the process, they usually mount the oil pressure sender (for the idiot light) just beyond the camshaft. The metering holes in the camshaft/AVLS system are pretty small and quite far from the oil pump. If the oil is thick, it won't go through the holes and - bingo - oil light plus CEL plus no cruise control (why?) plus your girlfriend will leave you. On Toyotas, it doesn't really affect the engine running, since the variable valve system doesn't kick in most of the time. But, you still get the oil light, plus the CEL, etc.
Use thin oil! Sell the 10w40.
Originally Posted By: dave5358
Too thick. First it will make your engine less efficient. Perhaps more important, it may not function with your variable valves (AVLS?) system. Your engine has that, right? Mine does not.
I haven't messed with an AVLS system on a Subaru, but on Toyotas and Hondas, too thick oil will frequently result in the oil light coming on. I know, this doesn't make sense. But the car companies use hydraulic oil pressure to change the valve timing. In the process, they usually mount the oil pressure sender (for the idiot light) just beyond the camshaft. The metering holes in the camshaft/AVLS system are pretty small and quite far from the oil pump. If the oil is thick, it won't go through the holes and - bingo - oil light plus CEL plus no cruise control (why?) plus your girlfriend will leave you. On Toyotas, it doesn't really affect the engine running, since the variable valve system doesn't kick in most of the time. But, you still get the oil light, plus the CEL, etc.
In reality manufacturers seem to be more concerned with too thin of an oil vs too thick when it comes to hydraulic valve actuation. From the latest SAE J300 standard:
Quote:
The minimum KV100 of the SAE 20 grade is increased from 5.6 mm2/s to 6.9 mm2/s for two reasons:
• equipment manufacturers desire to narrow this range to ensure proper operation of hydraulically-actuated engine control devices which are sensitive to kinematic viscosity
• the lower portion of the KV100 range is not being utilized and is outside of the formulating range of oils with HTHS viscosity > 2.6 mPa·s. The new minimum value of 6.9 mm2/s was selected to provide the same KV100
range as a fraction of the minimum KV100 of the SAE 20 grade {(9.3-6.9)/6.9 = 0.35} as the current SAE 30 grade {(12.5-9.3)/9.3 = 0.34}. Raising the minimum KV100 is not expected to impact commercial SAE XW-20 lubricants in the marketplace.
http://www.shark-lubricants.it/object.php/act/sho/oid/c5776c999d6838f6b951f808f1fdaa36
Too thick. First it will make your engine less efficient. Perhaps more important, it may not function with your variable valves (AVLS?) system. Your engine has that, right? Mine does not.
I haven't messed with an AVLS system on a Subaru, but on Toyotas and Hondas, too thick oil will frequently result in the oil light coming on. I know, this doesn't make sense. But the car companies use hydraulic oil pressure to change the valve timing. In the process, they usually mount the oil pressure sender (for the idiot light) just beyond the camshaft. The metering holes in the camshaft/AVLS system are pretty small and quite far from the oil pump. If the oil is thick, it won't go through the holes and - bingo - oil light plus CEL plus no cruise control (why?) plus your girlfriend will leave you. On Toyotas, it doesn't really affect the engine running, since the variable valve system doesn't kick in most of the time. But, you still get the oil light, plus the CEL, etc.
In reality manufacturers seem to be more concerned with too thin of an oil vs too thick when it comes to hydraulic valve actuation. From the latest SAE J300 standard:
Quote:
The minimum KV100 of the SAE 20 grade is increased from 5.6 mm2/s to 6.9 mm2/s for two reasons:
• equipment manufacturers desire to narrow this range to ensure proper operation of hydraulically-actuated engine control devices which are sensitive to kinematic viscosity
• the lower portion of the KV100 range is not being utilized and is outside of the formulating range of oils with HTHS viscosity > 2.6 mPa·s. The new minimum value of 6.9 mm2/s was selected to provide the same KV100
range as a fraction of the minimum KV100 of the SAE 20 grade {(9.3-6.9)/6.9 = 0.35} as the current SAE 30 grade {(12.5-9.3)/9.3 = 0.34}. Raising the minimum KV100 is not expected to impact commercial SAE XW-20 lubricants in the marketplace.
http://www.shark-lubricants.it/object.php/act/sho/oid/c5776c999d6838f6b951f808f1fdaa36
Your thoughts on the mc oil?
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Originally Posted By: Doublehaul
May sound crazy to some as the car calls for 0w20 BUT...I was given 5 cases of this stuff from a friend of mine. It's probably 6 or 7 years old. He used to own a repair shop and got on sale and just never used it. I'd hate to let it go to waste so I figured I would run it in the subaru. Is the mxt suitable for cars and what would be a reasonable oci?
Its really not too thick, all 2009 and up 2.5 sold in Germany spec 0w40 or 5w40. No xw20w or xw30w is approved by Subaru for the 2.5 engine.
Subaru and Some Nissan V6 engines historically like thicker oils and this one IMHO is no exception. .
Personally every Subaru and Nissan V6 i service or own gets Mobil 1 0w40 or Rotella T (older Subaru)
SUBARU
Modell
Legacy 2.5i Saloon (123kW)
Jahr
2009-
Anwendung Empfehlung Kapazität (l)
1. Wahl Mobil 1 New Life 0W-40 (a, b) 4.2 - 4.5
2. Wahl Mobil Super 3000 X1 5W-40
Edit: The MTX while an older synthetic oil is a great oil, it holds up well in high performance, high revving engines that generate high oil temps.
It will 100% not cause a CEL or valve train malfunction of any kind.
May sound crazy to some as the car calls for 0w20 BUT...I was given 5 cases of this stuff from a friend of mine. It's probably 6 or 7 years old. He used to own a repair shop and got on sale and just never used it. I'd hate to let it go to waste so I figured I would run it in the subaru. Is the mxt suitable for cars and what would be a reasonable oci?
Its really not too thick, all 2009 and up 2.5 sold in Germany spec 0w40 or 5w40. No xw20w or xw30w is approved by Subaru for the 2.5 engine.
Subaru and Some Nissan V6 engines historically like thicker oils and this one IMHO is no exception. .
Personally every Subaru and Nissan V6 i service or own gets Mobil 1 0w40 or Rotella T (older Subaru)
SUBARU
Modell
Legacy 2.5i Saloon (123kW)
Jahr
2009-
Anwendung Empfehlung Kapazität (l)
1. Wahl Mobil 1 New Life 0W-40 (a, b) 4.2 - 4.5
2. Wahl Mobil Super 3000 X1 5W-40
Edit: The MTX while an older synthetic oil is a great oil, it holds up well in high performance, high revving engines that generate high oil temps.
It will 100% not cause a CEL or valve train malfunction of any kind.
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What does your owner's manual say? I know they call for 0w-20, but they usually have something in the owners manual that says if 0w-20 isn't available, then some other grades can be used. What are the other grades specified in your manual? If they're all Xw-20 or Xw-30, then I wouldn't use the 10w-40 just to maintain your warranty.
Once the warranty is up, you could try using it for a couple OCIs, and do a UOA on it to see how the engine is doing with it.
Once the warranty is up, you could try using it for a couple OCIs, and do a UOA on it to see how the engine is doing with it.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Mobil Super 3000 X1 5W-40
I love Mobil's naming schemes. Here, Mobil Super 3000 is a bulk 0w-20 only available in a 205 L drum.
Mobil Super 3000 X1 5W-40
I love Mobil's naming schemes. Here, Mobil Super 3000 is a bulk 0w-20 only available in a 205 L drum.
Wow, I'd love to pay you for a case of that stuff
Originally Posted By: Doublehaul
May sound crazy to some as the car calls for 0w20 BUT...I was given 5 cases of this stuff from a friend of mine. It's probably 6 or 7 years old. He used to own a repair shop and got on sale and just never used it. I'd hate to let it go to waste so I figured I would run it in the subaru. Is the mxt suitable for cars and what would be a reasonable oci?
Originally Posted By: Doublehaul
May sound crazy to some as the car calls for 0w20 BUT...I was given 5 cases of this stuff from a friend of mine. It's probably 6 or 7 years old. He used to own a repair shop and got on sale and just never used it. I'd hate to let it go to waste so I figured I would run it in the subaru. Is the mxt suitable for cars and what would be a reasonable oci?
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Doublehaul
May sound crazy to some as the car calls for 0w20 BUT...I was given 5 cases of this stuff from a friend of mine. It's probably 6 or 7 years old. He used to own a repair shop and got on sale and just never used it. I'd hate to let it go to waste so I figured I would run it in the subaru. Is the mxt suitable for cars and what would be a reasonable oci?
Its really not too thick, all 2009 and up 2.5 sold in Germany spec 0w40 or 5w40. No xw20w or xw30w is approved by Subaru for the 2.5 engine.
Subaru and Some Nissan V6 engines historically like thicker oils and this one IMHO is no exception. .
Personally every Subaru and Nissan V6 i service or own gets Mobil 1 0w40 or Rotella T (older Subaru)
SUBARU
Modell
Legacy 2.5i Saloon (123kW)
Jahr
2009-
Anwendung Empfehlung Kapazität (l)
1. Wahl Mobil 1 New Life 0W-40 (a, b) 4.2 - 4.5
2. Wahl Mobil Super 3000 X1 5W-40
Edit: The MTX while an older synthetic oil is a great oil, it holds up well in high performance, high revving engines that generate high oil temps.
It will 100% not cause a CEL or valve train malfunction of any kind.
Which engine is this in reference to? FB25 or the old EJ25?
Originally Posted By: Doublehaul
May sound crazy to some as the car calls for 0w20 BUT...I was given 5 cases of this stuff from a friend of mine. It's probably 6 or 7 years old. He used to own a repair shop and got on sale and just never used it. I'd hate to let it go to waste so I figured I would run it in the subaru. Is the mxt suitable for cars and what would be a reasonable oci?
Its really not too thick, all 2009 and up 2.5 sold in Germany spec 0w40 or 5w40. No xw20w or xw30w is approved by Subaru for the 2.5 engine.
Subaru and Some Nissan V6 engines historically like thicker oils and this one IMHO is no exception. .
Personally every Subaru and Nissan V6 i service or own gets Mobil 1 0w40 or Rotella T (older Subaru)
SUBARU
Modell
Legacy 2.5i Saloon (123kW)
Jahr
2009-
Anwendung Empfehlung Kapazität (l)
1. Wahl Mobil 1 New Life 0W-40 (a, b) 4.2 - 4.5
2. Wahl Mobil Super 3000 X1 5W-40
Edit: The MTX while an older synthetic oil is a great oil, it holds up well in high performance, high revving engines that generate high oil temps.
It will 100% not cause a CEL or valve train malfunction of any kind.
Which engine is this in reference to? FB25 or the old EJ25?
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The FB didn't appear officially in Europe till late 2010 early 2011 but they made no distinction between the 2009 which would be an EJ and later models like they did in the US.
Other models using the 2.5 EJ could run xw30 so its possible the legacy had something other than just the old EJ under the hood.
I tried getting a concrete answer from Subaru.de but only get "thats what Subaru recommends".
The dealers have the "Subaru engines like thicker oil" answer, they use xw40 in them from what i can tell.
Other models using the 2.5 EJ could run xw30 so its possible the legacy had something other than just the old EJ under the hood.
I tried getting a concrete answer from Subaru.de but only get "thats what Subaru recommends".
The dealers have the "Subaru engines like thicker oil" answer, they use xw40 in them from what i can tell.
As far as being motorcycle specific all that means is high zddp levels and little to no friction modifiers.
I'd use it but thin it with Mobil 0w-20 in a 50/50 mix.
And I find the too thick to make the vvt work a laughable argument.
The dodge guys think it's going to affect the mds too,which I've proven works just fine on 40 grades.
I'd use it but thin it with Mobil 0w-20 in a 50/50 mix.
And I find the too thick to make the vvt work a laughable argument.
The dodge guys think it's going to affect the mds too,which I've proven works just fine on 40 grades.
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