I have had success repairing a Honda EU2000 twice, and a Yamaha EU220iS (see this forum for details), and now a friend of mine asked me for help with his string trimmer a Husqvarna 128LD. It’s worth maybe $239 new, so not a valuable machine.
Anyway the story goes that he replaced the gas tank and it never ran again. I got it from him and it sat a bit over a week. I then did the most basic diagnosis air, fuel, spark, compression, exhaust …. Basically… it primes, I feel compression, spark arrestor is clean, air filter clean… no spark!
I decided he must have punched wires or something odd. He thinks he is more mechanically inclined than he is. Anyway super tight screws holding the rope on. Others super lose, then the back I notice is cracked clean apart because he removed the cover pulling only two torx screws not the other two then forced it apart.
I remove the gas tank easily and then see carburetor gasket installed obviously wrong, and I am starting to think, this is a BAD project because it would be a 10 minute job to replace the gas tank that was leaking from the grommet. Anyway no smoking gun.
I disconnect the ignition switch and still no spark. Then I decide the flywheel, coil, and ignition stuff is on the front. No reason to take the front off to change the gas tank, but the screws oddly seem lose and I have to get in there to inspect the ignition system.
I find this
What kind of idiot routes a wire to rub on a flywheel and obvious misses the two groves and previous indentations? Clearly he ran the screw right through the ignition kill wires! That is why there is no spark!
I also don’t know if he touched that coil. It seems kind of far away from the flywheel .
At any rate, NONE of then front of the string trimmer even had to come apart to change the fuel tank. The best analogy would be a mechanic taking apart a rear differential on a car when doing an alternator job. . The fuel tank can be released simply by removing the Orange Shroud that houses the recoil assembly.
This piece is all that has to come off, and it is at the rear wirh the pull rope. Literally need ped to pull like 4 torx and the fuel tank is free floating. 5 minute job!
.This is not his. I actually had to order a replacement shroud because he had previously removed this shroud without removing the bottom Torx screws. Removed the top then yanked it until the plastic broke clean off..
It’s insane. I do not ever want to work on something this friend worked on before again. How can anybody break this thing removing it? I mean there are 4 Torx screws. Wish me luck.
The problem now is I am not sure if he messed anything else up while on there. By the time I add shipping a new kill wire harness and a used shroud (eBay $13), it is $36 wasted. If he had faked this to a shop, they would order all new parts and add at least $120 labor, which would put this repair in the $186 to $216 range, which is not economical for a machine that can be purchased sinew for $199 on sale.
I think I can save this one
Signing off from my rant tonight… JB
Anyway the story goes that he replaced the gas tank and it never ran again. I got it from him and it sat a bit over a week. I then did the most basic diagnosis air, fuel, spark, compression, exhaust …. Basically… it primes, I feel compression, spark arrestor is clean, air filter clean… no spark!
I decided he must have punched wires or something odd. He thinks he is more mechanically inclined than he is. Anyway super tight screws holding the rope on. Others super lose, then the back I notice is cracked clean apart because he removed the cover pulling only two torx screws not the other two then forced it apart.
I remove the gas tank easily and then see carburetor gasket installed obviously wrong, and I am starting to think, this is a BAD project because it would be a 10 minute job to replace the gas tank that was leaking from the grommet. Anyway no smoking gun.
I disconnect the ignition switch and still no spark. Then I decide the flywheel, coil, and ignition stuff is on the front. No reason to take the front off to change the gas tank, but the screws oddly seem lose and I have to get in there to inspect the ignition system.
I find this
What kind of idiot routes a wire to rub on a flywheel and obvious misses the two groves and previous indentations? Clearly he ran the screw right through the ignition kill wires! That is why there is no spark!
I also don’t know if he touched that coil. It seems kind of far away from the flywheel .
At any rate, NONE of then front of the string trimmer even had to come apart to change the fuel tank. The best analogy would be a mechanic taking apart a rear differential on a car when doing an alternator job. . The fuel tank can be released simply by removing the Orange Shroud that houses the recoil assembly.
This piece is all that has to come off, and it is at the rear wirh the pull rope. Literally need ped to pull like 4 torx and the fuel tank is free floating. 5 minute job!
.This is not his. I actually had to order a replacement shroud because he had previously removed this shroud without removing the bottom Torx screws. Removed the top then yanked it until the plastic broke clean off..
It’s insane. I do not ever want to work on something this friend worked on before again. How can anybody break this thing removing it? I mean there are 4 Torx screws. Wish me luck.
The problem now is I am not sure if he messed anything else up while on there. By the time I add shipping a new kill wire harness and a used shroud (eBay $13), it is $36 wasted. If he had faked this to a shop, they would order all new parts and add at least $120 labor, which would put this repair in the $186 to $216 range, which is not economical for a machine that can be purchased sinew for $199 on sale.
I think I can save this one
Signing off from my rant tonight… JB
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