Can I do this to my Camry Hybrid?

Regarding 0w16 there seem to be two camps, you should never use it or you must always use it. I’m the outlier I guess cause I say you can use it but you don’t have to use it. Other viscosities are certainly allowed however so is 0w16. If the weather isn’t extremely hot and you’re not towing or racing then 0w16 will be just fine. But so will the higher viscosities.

I’d venture to say the hybrid battery or system will be the first big ticket item to go out causing you to get rid of the car. Not the engine. And even with 0w16.

The manual says to use 0w16, and it says you can use the next highest one once. Then you must use 0w16 again the next oil change. Both of the oil change places I went to told me this as well. So maybe it's important on the hybrid. I know some toyotas started using low pressure piston rings.
 
The manual says to use 0w16, and it says you can use the next highest one once. Then you must use 0w16 again the next oil change. Both of the oil change places I went to told me this as well. So maybe it's important on the hybrid. I know some toyotas started using low pressure piston rings.
It’s doesn’t matter. It’s been discussed many times.

The same 0w16 at -5F in Minnesota during the winter and 105F in Arizona during the summer are going to be vastly different. The engine cannot be that sensitive to oil without being harmed at one end of spectrum or the other. It just cannot.
 
The manual says to use 0w16, and it says you can use the next highest one once. Then you must use 0w16 again the next oil change. Both of the oil change places I went to told me this as well. So maybe it's important on the hybrid. I know some toyotas started using low pressure piston rings.
You mean low tension rings. They've been around a LONG time in MANY engines. Trust all the people telling you this engine runs fine (and is probably protected better) with 0w-20 instead of 0w-16. My Camry 2.5 (not a hybrid) also specs 0w-16. I've been running 0w-20 in it for every change (which is about 5000 miles). It has only 76,000 miles on it now, and the oil stays clear/golden the entire time, and stays dead on the full mark, and we get upper 30's to low 40's mpg. One trip, with 3 adults going no faster than the speed limit, it got 53 mpg. On another trip of 800+ miles in one day, sometimes running 90 mph (if I recall correctly, I averaged over 70 mph, and that included two complete stand-stills on the Interstate for several minutes each time), it still got right at 40 mpg. Nothing magical about 0w-16.
 
It’s doesn’t matter. It’s been discussed many times.

The same 0w16 at -5F in Minnesota during the winter and 105F in Arizona during the summer are going to be vastly different. The engine cannot be that sensitive to oil without being harmed at one end of spectrum or the other. It just cannot.
And it is not.

But if someone is terrified of manual wording then there isn't much you can do. Unfortunately that is the intent of the language as required by the manufacturer's CAFE award letter. It's working.
 
It’s doesn’t matter. It’s been discussed many times.

The same 0w16 at -5F in Minnesota during the winter and 105F in Arizona during the summer are going to be vastly different. The engine cannot be that sensitive to oil without being harmed at one end of spectrum or the other. It just cannot.

That's meaningless if they told you not to operate the vehicle in those temperatures. Or to change things up if conditions change.

I'm just going off the video, which was the main focus of the thread so I'm not sure where that last guy is getting his assumptions.
 
UOAs really do not tell you much of anything about what's going on inside the engine.
Didn’t say it would, don’t try to change the subject. A UOA will say what condition the oil is in. If it is still good then then 10,000 mile drain interval is not decreasing engine life.
 
Remember to take into account that your engine is not running all the time. At 7500 miles the engine might run 5000 or so of that.
Take into account the engine converted gasoline into work sufficient to move the vehicle for 7500 miles.
 
If I owned a Camry Hybrid (and I wish I did at current gas prices) I'd change the oil and filter every 6 to 7.5K using
0w20 (because it's easier to find and I have some already) and a WM 10K filter. If the filter is difficult to access I'd probably use the Fram Ultra for 2 OCI's.
 
If we go by the word of the former toyota tech in the video, the 10k oci caused that doctor's car to wear the cylinders out. And the engine's life was spent at 150k miles. He said it's because gasoline gets to stay in the oil longer when you run oil for 10k miles. Breaks it down and turns it into much crappier oil.

Maybe I'm unaware of it because I'm not a veteran member like many of you guys, but I don't know of any filter which filters out the gasoline that gets mixed in with your motor oil.
Haven’t watched that video in a while but I thought he also said the Dr had dealer bulk oil services. Had he used M1 or another top tier oil would this had happened? Who knows
 
If I owned a Camry Hybrid (and I wish I did at current gas prices) I'd change the oil and filter every 6 to 7.5K using
0w20 (because it's easier to find and I have some already) and a WM 10K filter. If the filter is difficult to access I'd probably use the Fram Ultra for 2 OCI's.
Daughter in law bought a 2008 Camry hybrid with 262K miles on it. It says 0W20 on cap and in manual. I have 5w30 on hand, that’s what it has gotten the past three oil changes. Fram TG4967 changed every other oil change. I drained/refilled the radiator, did a drain/refill on the inverter, drain/refill cvt with Toyota WS. 5000ish mile oil changes. At 272K miles now and runs like a champ
 
It seems like your use of the car is pretty gentle and you drive it far enough each weekday to get everything warmed up and temperature stable.
There are those who adhere to the notion that much more frequent OCIs than what a manufacturer recommends will somehow resolve any engine ills, but there is little beyond anecdote to support this view.
I am of the view that in many and maybe most cases high oil consumption is caused more by coked up rings that by wear. If anyone experiences high consumption, Valvoline males an expensive diesel 10W-30 intended specifically to fee up stuck rings and then there's always Kreen.
I'd also doubt that Toyota would recommend a grade that would cause excessive early wear. Whether you can reach your engine life goal will depend upon a number of things, wear being but one of them.
A UOA would at least tell you whether sufficient TBN remains at whatever drain interval you choose as well as inform you to what extent fuel dilution is a problem.
The oil filter may not be as important as you might think it is, since there are plenty of very small particles in the oil that no oil filter will catch. I'd be more concerned about the ability of the filter to remain intact with no media tears over the projected OCI.
For you, it might be easier just to change the oil twice each year, once in the spring and then again in the fall, like April and October.
I don't know where you live but here I'd just as soon do this, as I do, rather than run additional miles into the dreaded winter oil change.
 
Why pay more money for a Royal Purple filter? The $3.50 SuperTech filter is good to 10,000 miles and looks to be a decent looking filter.

I do 5,000 mile OCI's. It's easier to remember and coincides with the maintenance reminder messages. 8000 is close to the old 7500 mile OCI Toyota used to do.
Would a super tech filter be good for a 2001 3.1 L motor. Or what about the Royal Purple
I was going to use an A/C but I heard they are not as good as they used to be. I have about 107,000 miles on the car, and only drive tops, 3,000/Year.
I am changing it about once a year.
What is the best filter for my motor?
Sorry to Hi-jack, I started a new thread too, can't seem to delete this.
 
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