Sound like DI to me. Does the generator tick and clack?
Can I do this to my Camry Hybrid?
- Thread starter Greyroom
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Not following this question-the engine is the item powering the ”generator” portion of the transmission.
The manual says to use 0w16, and it says you can use the next highest one once. Then you must use 0w16 again the next oil change. Both of the oil change places I went to told me this as well. So maybe it's important on the hybrid. I know some toyotas started using low pressure piston rings.
It’s doesn’t matter. It’s been discussed many times.
The same 0w16 at -5F in Minnesota during the winter and 105F in Arizona during the summer are going to be vastly different. The engine cannot be that sensitive to oil without being harmed at one end of spectrum or the other. It just cannot.
You mean low tension rings. They've been around a LONG time in MANY engines. Trust all the people telling you this engine runs fine (and is probably protected better) with 0w-20 instead of 0w-16. My Camry 2.5 (not a hybrid) also specs 0w-16. I've been running 0w-20 in it for every change (which is about 5000 miles). It has only 76,000 miles on it now, and the oil stays clear/golden the entire time, and stays dead on the full mark, and we get upper 30's to low 40's mpg. One trip, with 3 adults going no faster than the speed limit, it got 53 mpg. On another trip of 800+ miles in one day, sometimes running 90 mph (if I recall correctly, I averaged over 70 mph, and that included two complete stand-stills on the Interstate for several minutes each time), it still got right at 40 mpg. Nothing magical about 0w-16.
And it is not.
But if someone is terrified of manual wording then there isn't much you can do. Unfortunately that is the intent of the language as required by the manufacturer's CAFE award letter. It's working.
That's meaningless if they told you not to operate the vehicle in those temperatures. Or to change things up if conditions change.
I'm just going off the video, which was the main focus of the thread so I'm not sure where that last guy is getting his assumptions.
Does the manual say either?
Didn’t say it would, don’t try to change the subject. A UOA will say what condition the oil is in. If it is still good then then 10,000 mile drain interval is not decreasing engine life.
Take into account the engine converted gasoline into work sufficient to move the vehicle for 7500 miles.
If I owned a Camry Hybrid (and I wish I did at current gas prices) I'd change the oil and filter every 6 to 7.5K using
0w20 (because it's easier to find and I have some already) and a WM 10K filter. If the filter is difficult to access I'd probably use the Fram Ultra for 2 OCI's.
0w20 (because it's easier to find and I have some already) and a WM 10K filter. If the filter is difficult to access I'd probably use the Fram Ultra for 2 OCI's.
Haven’t watched that video in a while but I thought he also said the Dr had dealer bulk oil services. Had he used M1 or another top tier oil would this had happened? Who knows
Daughter in law bought a 2008 Camry hybrid with 262K miles on it. It says 0W20 on cap and in manual. I have 5w30 on hand, that’s what it has gotten the past three oil changes. Fram TG4967 changed every other oil change. I drained/refilled the radiator, did a drain/refill on the inverter, drain/refill cvt with Toyota WS. 5000ish mile oil changes. At 272K miles now and runs like a champ
It seems like your use of the car is pretty gentle and you drive it far enough each weekday to get everything warmed up and temperature stable.
There are those who adhere to the notion that much more frequent OCIs than what a manufacturer recommends will somehow resolve any engine ills, but there is little beyond anecdote to support this view.
I am of the view that in many and maybe most cases high oil consumption is caused more by coked up rings that by wear. If anyone experiences high consumption, Valvoline males an expensive diesel 10W-30 intended specifically to fee up stuck rings and then there's always Kreen.
I'd also doubt that Toyota would recommend a grade that would cause excessive early wear. Whether you can reach your engine life goal will depend upon a number of things, wear being but one of them.
A UOA would at least tell you whether sufficient TBN remains at whatever drain interval you choose as well as inform you to what extent fuel dilution is a problem.
The oil filter may not be as important as you might think it is, since there are plenty of very small particles in the oil that no oil filter will catch. I'd be more concerned about the ability of the filter to remain intact with no media tears over the projected OCI.
For you, it might be easier just to change the oil twice each year, once in the spring and then again in the fall, like April and October.
I don't know where you live but here I'd just as soon do this, as I do, rather than run additional miles into the dreaded winter oil change.
There are those who adhere to the notion that much more frequent OCIs than what a manufacturer recommends will somehow resolve any engine ills, but there is little beyond anecdote to support this view.
I am of the view that in many and maybe most cases high oil consumption is caused more by coked up rings that by wear. If anyone experiences high consumption, Valvoline males an expensive diesel 10W-30 intended specifically to fee up stuck rings and then there's always Kreen.
I'd also doubt that Toyota would recommend a grade that would cause excessive early wear. Whether you can reach your engine life goal will depend upon a number of things, wear being but one of them.
A UOA would at least tell you whether sufficient TBN remains at whatever drain interval you choose as well as inform you to what extent fuel dilution is a problem.
The oil filter may not be as important as you might think it is, since there are plenty of very small particles in the oil that no oil filter will catch. I'd be more concerned about the ability of the filter to remain intact with no media tears over the projected OCI.
For you, it might be easier just to change the oil twice each year, once in the spring and then again in the fall, like April and October.
I don't know where you live but here I'd just as soon do this, as I do, rather than run additional miles into the dreaded winter oil change.
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