Can a thicker oil ever result in increased oil consumption or damage an engine?

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Thanks Malabu, this one told me he had never even heard of 5W30 oil. Does anyone know how good of an oil this is by Toyota, or who even makes it? I like most of the things they have, so I would think it is good. If you own one, you have to think what they have is good, I think anyway.
 
Patman, I'm currently running a 1998 Z28 on M1 15w50 (second change from 10W30). Seeing heavy dragstip use and changing every 3000 miles. Plan to analyse with the 15W50 and then redline 10W40. The car only gets about 50 miles on it a week, and it will sit until the rear diff. that I destroyed last week gets replaced. So the report may not be in for a while.
Bub
 
The standard GM 10 bolt with 3.42 gears. If you really want to know how weak these things are, it broke with 245/55/16 nitto drag radials and a stock Z06 clutch. The car litterally did not even get out of the staging beams, I remember looking up and seeing both the pre-stage and the stage lights still lit.
Bub
 
quote:

Originally posted by MolaKule:
Hey, I think the Aussies are great people, but could it be that those really thick oils is more a state of mind or oil company advertising than mechanical clearances or other necessities?

I mean, these same engines are being used in both countries with little modifications between the two, while the EPA forces thinner oils on us, the Aussies get thick oils. I see two extremes here with the same engines. I guess the same thing could be said about the Europeans.


Molakule,
I was talking to my Dad recently, and he told me that when he was taught about cars by his Dad, straight weights were the only things considered. You started on 30, then as the car got older, went to 40, then later to 50.

Multigrades were the work of the devil.

Adverts up until quite recently noted the "full protection" that you get with a 20W-50.

I think that it's an attitude holdeover from tmes past, and the absence of CAFE in this country.

Talking to a Mobil tech about running 10W-30 in the 4Runner, they told me it was a bad idea, and the engine would consume a lot of oil, as the rings/guides weren't designed for this grade.

But the same car/engine uses xW-30 in the States, and seems to last 180,000 miles.
 
Bub I had a 10 bolt 'Salisbury' in my 1970 Holden Monaro 350 with 300hp 350 Chev engine. Went through 5 axles and finally a diff housing. Saginaw g'box was marginal but never broke. Engineering philosophy between Ford and GM so very different. GM make it as cheap/light and just able to do the job whereas Ford tend to over engineer things and use better quality castings (GM smallblocks often crack heads in winter here, never seen a Clevo or Windsor do that). Look at a Ford 9" diff with removable center and front pinion support or a Toploader even. Just so much stronger but heavier of course. Holden (GM) owners here usually throw the GM drivetrain away and fit Ford stuff. GM auto's are pretty good though.
 
Automotive lubricants marketing key to survival, Sell em' whatever they'll buy. Then get the scientists you own to tell "them" why "they" need it.

[ January 23, 2003, 08:00 PM: Message edited by: Terry ]
 
What about longevity? Don't cars last longer and/or are kept for longer intervals in Europe and the Australia? In N.A., the average car rusts out in about 5-7 years (it used to be worse!) and the engine is probably designed to last just as long. In Europe, it's customary to see 20 y.o. Mercedes...Here, I don't see any Audi's (for eg.) from the late 80's...where'd they all go?

I think it's 3 things...1. CAFE regs. 2. 3k intervals (vs. 10k in Europe) and 3. allow for slow self-destruction of engine coincident with rest of the car falling apart ie. lube adequacy during warranty period...beyond this, it doesn't matter as far as manuf. are concerned....you're supposed to buy a new car! And yes, the Europeans are catching on...ie. Daimler-Chrysler.

Here's to the smokin' Dodge's!
 
quote:

Originally posted by Dr. T:
What about longevity? Don't cars last longer and/or are kept for longer intervals in Europe and the Australia? In N.A., the average car rusts out in about 5-7 years

Huh? Maybe up north where the roads get tons of salt in the winter, but not in my neck of the woods. My van is 5 years old and doesn't have a spec of rust on it or under it.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
I still think 50wt oil is too thick for best engine protection, even in very hot weather. I'd like to see some of you guys who run in hot weather try out doing oil analysis with a 15w50 or 20w50, and then with a 15w40 (or 10w40/5w40) I bet with most engines out there the 50wt oil would show higher wear numbers. Most engines are not designed with this thick of an oil in mind, the clearances are simply not that loose.

Patman, I've said the following before, so apologies for being repetitive:

In Australia and Singapore, the same Honda Accords, Toyota Camry's, etc. use 50 weight. The BMW's there use 60 weight. Europe, 40 weight is commonly used for all cars.

It's got to be a conspiracy!!!!!! Big Oil is trying to get Americans to use skinny 0W-30 and 0W-20 oil and to throw it out every 3,000 miles!!!!!
 
My grandfather ran 10W weight oil, in the 40's, year around in Ohio. Don't know how often he changed it. But I remember a 1946 Chrysler he had over 117,000 miles on it and never had the head off, and it didn't use oil. Then a truck hit it and ruined it, so don't know how long it would have went for, on that thin oil. So maybe weight really don't matter much, heavy or light. Just a thought.
 
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