Break in recommendations for 5.3L GM

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Feb 20, 2022
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Greetings BITOGers,

I'm about to take delivery of a 2022 Yukon XL, and I wanted to ask your advice for break-in procedures. Starting out with what the manual says:

The vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in. But it will perform better in the long run if you follow these guidelines:
-Do not drive at any one constant speed, fast or slow, for the first 800 km (500 mi). Do not make full-throttle starts. Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle.
-Avoid making hard stops for the first 300 km (200 mi) or so. During this time the new brake linings are not yet broken in. Hard stops with new linings can mean premature wear and earlier replacement. Follow this breaking-in guideline every time you get new brake linings.
-Do not tow a trailer during break-in. See Trailer Towing 0 271 for the trailer towing capabilities of the vehicle and more information. Following break-in, engine speed and load can be gradually increased.
-Do not tow a trailer during the first 800 km (500 mi) of vehicle use to prevent damage to the engine, axle, or other parts.
. It is recommended to perform the first oil change before heavy towing.
. During the first 800 km (500 mi) of trailer towing, do not drive over 80 km/h (50 mph) and do not make starts at full throttle.


I'm planning on towing soon after picking up the vehicle ... however, 50 mph or less will be a significant challenge. We're talking a small 5x10 trailer with 4' tall sides. Recommendations on this? I'd like to tow highway speeds.

Most importantly, how soon would you recommend changing the oil? Planning on a 0w20 7.5k OCI, but should I do it sooner on the factory fill? It would seem sooner wouldn't be bad ... since they recommend a change before heavy towing.

Any other recommendations for breaking in a new V8?

Thanks!
 
Congrats on your new purchase! Just abide by the owners manual new vehicle break in procedure and drive it. You will get many different opinions on when to change the factory fill. I tend to change it a little early, usually after a 2,000-3,000 miles on a new engine.
 
Just drive it using common sense. Don't baby it and vary the rpms/load as much as possible. Don't floor it when cold or at all for first 100 miles or so. That's my thoughts on engine break-in after reading everything I could on it. Engine builders go hard early and there are reasons for that but they don't all apply here.
 
I just softly drove my 2021 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L. 5k miles in zero oil consumption so far luckily. There is no fancy engine break in procedure. Only thing I really did was disable auto start stop and just drive more softly and didn't start to accelerate beyond 2.2k rpm's until water temp fully went up. Don't be afraid to tow on the highway. The engine works off gearing more than its own speed. it will just shift a gear or two up but the engine will still be lower in rpm unless you manually shift but why would you. If you're towing more than 3k pounds use tow and haul mode.

if i was towing and putting miles on it i easily would use 10w-30. But i drive it softly and very sparingly. I've owned it since October 2020 and it only has like 5300 miles on it so far. It's more of a Sunday truck. My old Yukon denail puts the weekday hours in for it.
 
Thanks for the input. I figured it was more an engine load issue than speed, due to gearing. I figure a 10 speed trans has plenty of gear options to keep RPMs low if driven gently.
 
We had a 2021 Tahoe and now a 2022 Yukon XL. We didn't do anything special for break-in besides change the oil a little early the first time, but that's probably not necessary. I'm sticking to 5k OCIs. Ours were/are both 6.2s.
 
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I just softly drove my 2021 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L. 5k miles in zero oil consumption so far luckily. There is no fancy engine break in procedure. Only thing I really did was disable auto start stop and just drive more softly and didn't start to accelerate beyond 2.2k rpm's until water temp fully went up. Don't be afraid to tow on the highway. The engine works off gearing more than its own speed. it will just shift a gear or two up but the engine will still be lower in rpm unless you manually shift but why would you. If you're towing more than 3k pounds use tow and haul mode.

if i was towing and putting miles on it i easily would use 10w-30. But i drive it softly and very sparingly. I've owned it since October 2020 and it only has like 5300 miles on it so far. It's more of a Sunday truck. My old Yukon denail puts the weekday hours in for it.
I tow a 5,000 pound-30 foot travel trailer up 8,000 foot mountain passes. The manual calls for 0/20w and that what it gets. 45,000 miles and it hasn't blown up yet!
 
We had a 2021 Tahoe and now a 2022 Yukon XL. We didn't do anything special for break-in besides change the oil a little early the first time, but that's probably not necessary. I'm sticking to 5k OCIs. Ours were/are both 6.2s.
I'm seeing that smaller intervals are recommended with the cylinder deactivation feature. By the way, does your 22 have a four flat towing light hookup? I know it has the seven pin. Hoping it has four flat for our small trailer too.

How was your order process for the '22? You're one of the lucky ones.
 
I tow a 5,000 pound-30 foot travel trailer up 8,000 foot mountain passes. The manual calls for 0/20w and that what it gets. 45,000 miles and it hasn't blown up yet!
Only 45k miles of lower weight 5000 pound highway towing is nothing. In case you haven't noticed i take my trucks well beyond 300K miles and i expect them to be closer to new even at that mileage. I drove my old 2000 ford ranger to 462k until it just laid it out on the bed in 2017 and i still wanted it to run some more. My all original Denali with 317k so far barely burns 1 quart every 5-6k and I haven't done the pcv valve in a couple years.
 
I'm seeing that smaller intervals are recommended with the cylinder deactivation feature. By the way, does your 22 have a four flat towing light hookup? I know it has the seven pin. Hoping it has four flat for our small trailer too.

How was your order process for the '22? You're one of the lucky ones.
Not sure about the trailer plug. I'll try to remember to look tomorrow.

We got super lucky, IMO. We were going to order one, but this one was coming in and it had everything we wanted except the 2nd row captains. We bit the bullet and bought it. Really glad we did. It has max tow, RSE, air suspension. Basically everything that you can't get right now. In addition, it also doesn't have auto stop/start.

2020 Tahoe...
1645844935328.png


2022 Yukon XL
1645845008988.png


Kind of a unicorn, thanks to when it was built.
1645845159907.png
 
Not sure about the trailer plug. I'll try to remember to look tomorrow.

We got super lucky, IMO. We were going to order one, but this one was coming in and it had everything we wanted except the 2nd row captains. We bit the bullet and bought it. Really glad we did. It has max tow, RSE, air suspension. Basically everything that you can't get right now. In addition, it also doesn't have auto stop/start.

2020 Tahoe...
View attachment 90386

2022 Yukon XL
View attachment 90387

Kind of a unicorn, thanks to when it was built.
View attachment 90388
Very nice! We are in a similar situation, on an order list but ours came in as a special order that wasn't purchased ... saw it online and we were shocked that it wasn't spoken for. Got everything we wanted plus sunroof and luxury package. Enjoy your new wheels!
 
Didn’t do anything special on my wife’s 2021 Suburban. I’ve come to realize she doesn’t keep a vehicle long enough for it to matter, if it matters anyway.

It does seem to maybe be using a little coolant. At 14,000 miles it’s slightly low in the reservoir. Her 2017 6.2 would lose some some somewhere as well. I might’ve added a half gallon over 80,000 miles.
 
Greetings BITOGers,

I'm about to take delivery of a 2022 Yukon XL, and I wanted to ask your advice for break-in procedures. Starting out with what the manual says:

The vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in. But it will perform better in the long run if you follow these guidelines:
-Do not drive at any one constant speed, fast or slow, for the first 800 km (500 mi). Do not make full-throttle starts. Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle.
-Avoid making hard stops for the first 300 km (200 mi) or so. During this time the new brake linings are not yet broken in. Hard stops with new linings can mean premature wear and earlier replacement. Follow this breaking-in guideline every time you get new brake linings.
-Do not tow a trailer during break-in. See Trailer Towing 0 271 for the trailer towing capabilities of the vehicle and more information. Following break-in, engine speed and load can be gradually increased.
-Do not tow a trailer during the first 800 km (500 mi) of vehicle use to prevent damage to the engine, axle, or other parts.
. It is recommended to perform the first oil change before heavy towing.
. During the first 800 km (500 mi) of trailer towing, do not drive over 80 km/h (50 mph) and do not make starts at full throttle.


I'm planning on towing soon after picking up the vehicle ... however, 50 mph or less will be a significant challenge. We're talking a small 5x10 trailer with 4' tall sides. Recommendations on this? I'd like to tow highway speeds.

Most importantly, how soon would you recommend changing the oil? Planning on a 0w20 7.5k OCI, but should I do it sooner on the factory fill? It would seem sooner wouldn't be bad ... since they recommend a change before heavy towing.

Any other recommendations for breaking in a new V8?

Thanks!
That looks pretty similar to my z06/LS7 schedule. I would follow it.
 
Only 45k miles of lower weight 5000 pound highway towing is nothing. In case you haven't noticed i take my trucks well beyond 300K miles and i expect them to be closer to new even at that mileage. I drove my old 2000 ford ranger to 462k until it just laid it out on the bed in 2017 and i still wanted it to run some more. My all original Denali with 317k so far barely burns 1 quart every 5-6k and I haven't done the pcv valve in a couple years.
You don't understand-according to BITOG is should have blown up already.
 
Only 45k miles of lower weight 5000 pound highway towing is nothing. In case you haven't noticed i take my trucks well beyond 300K miles and i expect them to be closer to new even at that mileage. I drove my old 2000 ford ranger to 462k until it just laid it out on the bed in 2017 and i still wanted it to run some more. My all original Denali with 317k so far barely burns 1 quart every 5-6k and I haven't done the pcv valve in a couple years.
Your in Texas right? How many 8,000 foot mountain passes do you tow REGULARLY?
 
Have broke in many 5.3L’s … have two now. Have always stayed off the freeway for the first 100 miles and then once on a long stretch - just drive the speed limit with an interruption in speed now and then …
I do early 1st oil changes as a personal preference … M1 & XG10575 …
Never had one burn oil …
 
Not sure about the trailer plug. I'll try to remember to look tomorrow.

We got super lucky, IMO. We were going to order one, but this one was coming in and it had everything we wanted except the 2nd row captains. We bit the bullet and bought it. Really glad we did. It has max tow, RSE, air suspension. Basically everything that you can't get right now. In addition, it also doesn't have auto stop/start.

2020 Tahoe...
View attachment 90386

2022 Yukon XL
View attachment 90387

Kind of a unicorn, thanks to when it was built.
View attachment 90388
I’m sorry, but GM discontinued putting in steering wheel locks due to the chip shortage? What is this the 1960’s again?

For theft reasons I wouldn’t want a vehicle without a steering wheel lock.

Hopefully they at least substituted the electronic steering wheel lock for a mechanical one, but I just researched it and didn’t find anything confirming that.

GM even created an actual RPO code for vehicles without the steering wheel lock. That’s a pretty big deal. If these in fact have no steering wheel lock whatsoever, I wouldn’t be a bit surprised if insurance companies begin forcing higher rates.
C4B0C0F8-BD26-4474-BA62-C4CEDE5354A7.jpeg
 
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I’m sorry, but GM discontinued putting in steering wheel locks due to the chip shortage? What is this the 1960’s again?

For theft reasons I wouldn’t want a vehicle without a steering wheel lock.

Hopefully they at least substituted the electronic steering wheel lock for a mechanical one, but I just researched it and didn’t find anything confirming that.

GM even created an actual RPO code for vehicles without the steering wheel lock. That’s a pretty big deal. If these in fact have no steering wheel lock whatsoever, I wouldn’t be a bit surprised if insurance companies begin forcing higher rates.
View attachment 90395
Haha, reminds me of when I lived down on the border.
High-Duty-New-Steering-Wheel-Lock-OKL6002-.jpg
 
I mean, I suppose it would be ok to tow with it almost right away, but the manual does state to wait till you’ve reached 500 miles.

I probably screwed up my breakin period. I went mostly highway miles just driving home with it, took it real easy...and then I realized...I’m running at a constant speed here. Then decided to take it on a little trip up into the mountain area for a few days away. It snowed. I was in four wheel drive for half of it. The other half I was either going up big inclines or down big inclines. I took it easy, I never was actually beating on it, but it was working.

Then I dumped the initial fill at 1,000 miles. Did the second one at 4,000 miles. And then ran 5,000 mile intervals using whatever 0W20 synthetic was on sale - for me that was Shell Rotella Gas Truck, then Valvoline Modern Engine, Quaker State Ultimate Durability And Super Tech. I was using 3/4’s of a quart before 5,000 miles. Had some random misfires, some tranny shudder, a few other things. Traded it in at 52,000 miles.

I seriously wonder if my break in and early oil change did a little something negative and led to oil consumption for me? Wish I had left that factory fill in there till 5,000 miles and didn’t take that early trip. But who knows?
 
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