Break in recommendations for 5.3L GM

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

You’re right about that! I don’t think a steering wheel lock is required under federal law if the vehicle has an engine immobilizer (which your truck has). It was just an extra protection system, and just like you said if the thieves can bypass all the electronic computer systems, they can bypass the electronic steering wheel lock.

Just be happy you don’t own a 2016-2018 Silverado/Sierra. Thieves have found a way to just swap the computer under the hood and drive off.

Car thefts are up, and Dallas police released the No. 1 type of vehicle stolen this year

Dallas Police say a chip shortage is making it difficult for car makers to make new cars, and that is leading to an increase in auto thefts.

www.wfaa.com

If you can't buy 'em, steal 'em?????

 

[JavierH19]

The window sticker says that it doesn't have it.

CREDIT - NOT EQUIPPED W/ HEATED -25.00
STEERING WHEEL;
INCLUDES LATER RETROFIT
CREDIT - NOT EQUIPPED WITH -50.00
4-WAY LUMBAR; EQUIPPED WITH
2-WAY LUMBAR
CREDIT - NOT EQUIPPED WITH -50.00
STEERING COLUMN LOCK

Looks like the "later retrofit" may just apply to the heated steering wheel ... wonder if it's possible to retrofit with the steering column lock at a later time. This'll be a big discussion point in about 50 years when these vehicles cross the Barrett Jackson stage.

As someone who owns a 2021 escalade I don't expect this ultra computerized POS to run 50 years later. Hell even 25 years is a stretch. Hell I'd be amazed if it could even go into neutral since it needs power, functioning computers and control module, and a running engine to do that and I'm literally not exaggerating. The transmission won't shift until the engine fires up either. In accessory mode I tried to put it in neutral to load it on the flat bed since it broke down from a faulty fuel pump control module 2 months ago but it would digitally lock me out. Until the engine fired up for a split second it won't let you shift and when I accidentally closed the door while it was being pulled onto the flatbed it self engaged park. No mechanical linkage, all power and software controlled. I can't open the electronic doors from the outside without power either. There's a button in the fake door handle that activates an electric motor and I absolutely f****** hate it since it sometimes doesn't fully unlatch when I push the button and pull the door so I have to try again.

 

[PimTac]

Only 45k miles of lower weight 5000 pound highway towing is nothing. In case you haven't noticed i take my trucks well beyond 300K miles and i expect them to be closer to new even at that mileage. I drove my old 2000 ford ranger to 462k until it just laid it out on the bed in 2017 and i still wanted it to run some more. My all original Denali with 317k so far barely burns 1 quart every 5-6k and I haven't done the pcv valve in a couple years.

You forgot the important part of his statement. That is not nothing.

 

[JavierH19]

You forgot the important part of his statement. That is not nothing.

Racking up miles quickly with steady high oil pressure in steady rpm driving in 45k total miles is closer to nothing than something significant. Being 8000ft above sea level doesn't mean much but that may sound like something to note. Just means your engine gets less air so you should use a k&n when towing to get a bit of power back to help you out. Your oil doesn't really suffer more, it may just take a bit longer to finish the trip with less power.

No one who can rub 2 braincells say engines "blow up" in 45k miles of highway towing on the specified 0w-20 with an occasional pull up a mountain pass but then coast down the mountain with less engine load than if they were to cruise on a flat surface, they always seem to leave that out...hmmm. On top of that my cousins 2017 5.3 suburban ls down in Mexico says to use dexos approved 5w-30 on the cap rather than 0w-20 like over here and they're virtually the same engine. I believe the 2021's down there still spec 5w-30 as well.

Those that say a softly driven engine will blow are with specified 0w-20 are usually just trolling or actually stupid. If you're not towing and drive 30k miles every year more on the highway than not a non 0w-20 is going to make a decent quality engine make it to at least 250k without real issue. if you do a lot of stop and go driving in under 100k in 10 years it will still last long enough for you to get something else.

I will personally use 0w-20 in my own 6.2 simply because i don't tow with it and I've only put 5300 miles on it in the 16 months I've owned it since i still use my other trucks. But if i wanted to go 317k like my Yukon currently has and counting on the same original internals with no issue I'd at least step up a grade just to be a bit more safe since it does a lot of off highway driving.

 

[PimTac]

Racking up miles quickly with steady high oil pressure in steady rpm driving in 45k total miles is closer to nothing than something significant. Being 8000ft above sea level doesn't mean much but that may sound like something to note. Just means your engine gets less air so you should use a k&n when towing to get a bit of power back to help you out. Your oil doesn't really suffer more, it may just take a bit longer to finish the trip with less power.

No one who can rub 2 braincells say engines "blow up" in 45k miles of highway towing on the specified 0w-20 with an occasional pull up a mountain pass but then coast down the mountain with less engine load than if they were to cruise on a flat surface, they always seem to leave that out...hmmm. On top of that my cousins 2017 5.3 suburban ls down in Mexico says to use dexos approved 5w-30 on the cap rather than 0w-20 like over here and they're virtually the same engine. I believe the 2021's down there still spec 5w-30 as well.

Those that say a softly driven engine will blow are with specified 0w-20 are usually just trolling or actually stupid. If you're not towing and drive 30k miles every year more on the highway than not a non 0w-20 is going to make a decent quality engine make it to at least 250k without real issue. if you do a lot of stop and go driving in under 100k in 10 years it will still last long enough for you to get something else.

I will personally use 0w-20 in my own 6.2 simply because i don't tow with it and I've only put 5300 miles on it in the 16 months I've owned it since i still use my other trucks. But if i wanted to go 317k like my Yukon currently has and counting on the same original internals with no issue I'd at least step up a grade just to be a bit more safe since it does a lot of off highway driving.

What’s the deal with all the little personal insinuations and insults? They add nothing to your comments.


I would say that towing a trailer up a grade and especially up to 8000 feet is severe service. The evidence is there as you will usually see vehicles pulled over due to overheating or other problems.


Back to the OP’s question, I would drive your new vehicle some before towing. The engine is not the only thing breaking in. That is what I would do. Having said that, a lot of trucks get bought and immediately go to work.

 

[JavierH19]

What’s the deal with all the little personal insinuations and insults? They add nothing to your comments.


I would say that towing a trailer up a grade and especially up to 8000 feet is severe service. The evidence is there as you will usually see vehicles pulled over due to overheating or other problems.


Back to the OP’s question, I would drive your new vehicle some before towing. The engine is not the only thing breaking in. That is what I would do. Having said that, a lot of trucks get bought and immediately go to work.

Those that really think the specified 0w-20 will make a non defective engine that's still in warranty "blow up" in 45k miles towing on the highway are closer to stupid than smart. And he insinuated i believed 0w-20 would make an engine blow up with his comment on saying his hadn't blown up in 45k miles as if it's something he believed i would infer. But it wouldn't be stupid to question if it may not make it there trouble free in 300k miles instead. One is still in or freshly outside the warranty period and the other is many times past the warranty expiration.

And if a truck overheats pulling no more than what the manufacturer specified it can tow then you should've gotten the optional tow package which includes a better radiator and other improvements.

But a thicker or thinner oil wont help an insufficient cooling system or a whole drivetrain doing more work than it was designed and specified for. But manufacturers don't expect the vehicle to last 300k. They expect it to last for what they will warranty it for unless it's 300k. Force automakers to warranty their vehicles to 300k and 15 years and they'll be specifying different things or things more frequently.

 

[FZ1]

Greetings BITOGers,

I'm about to take delivery of a 2022 Yukon XL, and I wanted to ask your advice for break-in procedures. Starting out with what the manual says:

The vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in. But it will perform better in the long run if you follow these guidelines:
-Do not drive at any one constant speed, fast or slow, for the first 800 km (500 mi). Do not make full-throttle starts. Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle.
-Avoid making hard stops for the first 300 km (200 mi) or so. During this time the new brake linings are not yet broken in. Hard stops with new linings can mean premature wear and earlier replacement. Follow this breaking-in guideline every time you get new brake linings.
-Do not tow a trailer during break-in. See Trailer Towing 0 271 for the trailer towing capabilities of the vehicle and more information. Following break-in, engine speed and load can be gradually increased.
-Do not tow a trailer during the first 800 km (500 mi) of vehicle use to prevent damage to the engine, axle, or other parts.
. It is recommended to perform the first oil change before heavy towing.
. During the first 800 km (500 mi) of trailer towing, do not drive over 80 km/h (50 mph) and do not make starts at full throttle.

I'm planning on towing soon after picking up the vehicle ... however, 50 mph or less will be a significant challenge. We're talking a small 5x10 trailer with 4' tall sides. Recommendations on this? I'd like to tow highway speeds.

Most importantly, how soon would you recommend changing the oil? Planning on a 0w20 7.5k OCI, but should I do it sooner on the factory fill? It would seem sooner wouldn't be bad ... since they recommend a change before heavy towing.

Any other recommendations for breaking in a new V8?

Thanks!

I'd change the oil at 2500 then, again, at 7500. Don't use cruise control on the highway so the engine is not subjected to a sudden down shift and jump in rpms. YMMV.

 

[sHERM]

I just picked up a 2022 Silverado Trailboss with the 5.3l last week. I plan on leaving the break-in oil in for 4-5k. They put break-in oil in for a reason.

 

[Astro14]

I just picked up a 2022 Silverado Trailboss with the 5.3l last week. I plan on leaving the break-in oil in for 4-5k. They put break-in oil in for a reason.

Except that GM doesn’t use break in oil. So…

 

[4WD]

I just picked up a 2022 Silverado Trailboss with the 5.3l last week. I plan on leaving the break-in oil in for 4-5k. They put break-in oil in for a reason.

Except that GM doesn’t use break in oil. So…

sHERM: Currently breaking in our 7th 5.3L and have never seen/heard mention of break-in oil …
Where did you see that ?

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

Update, we are 12k down the road on the Yukon, affectionately nicknamed "'Burban". Flawless so far. Towing almost half the miles. What a road trip vehicle!!!

 

[SteveG4]

I've always wanted to say this, but haven't -- till now. "Drive it like you stole it!"

Enjoy the new vehicle.