Preferred Break-In Method for new vehicle

[zeroptzero]

Go Easy but Not Too Easy ?
I brought home a new car in the last 3 weeks - 2024 Subaru BRZ, it was in the dealer show room and it only had 10 kms on it - no test drives ! yay. Everything I've been seeing lately has suggested taking it easy on break-in, while I agree not to drive it like it is stolen, I don't think being too gentle is any good either. Many automotive sources say to keep rpms under 4k, and throttle under 50%. For the first couple weeks I did keep rpms under 4k, and load under 50%, but I did a lot of engine braking too. I am now increasing rpms to 5000 , and more load for short periods of time in the 3k-5k range, the engine redline is 7500 rpms. Break-in is listed as 1000 miles, that seems crazy long to me, to be keeping load and rpms low. I won't be waiting that long, I think that is too gentle of a break-in process. I want to put a bit more pressure on piston rings and piston tops, so I am adding more load from 3000-5000 rpms in higher gears for maybe 5-8 seconds at a time.

At 1500 miles I plan to dump the factory fluid and I'll be running Amsoil 5w20 SS for this year , the car will be put away for winter storage in November and I will only be driving the car on weekends in good weather.

What kind of break in process do you prefer to follow ?

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

Follow factory specs. Also look into heavier weight oil.

 

[zeroptzero]

Follow factory specs. Also look into heavier weight oil.

Subaru says 1000 miles, keep rpms low and load low, but that is a long time to me. It could take me 8 months to get through break-in period, lol, at the rate I drive the car - weekend garage queen. It would be a very long and boring driving season with rpms below 4k, lol, hence my suggested accelerated break-in process in my thread.

What viscosity oil would your suggest ?

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

5w30?
Brz 86 guys saying they have better UOA results and less oil consumption with 30 weight.

 

[zeroptzero]

5w30?
Brz 86 guys saying they have better UOA results and less oil consumption with 30 weight.

Thank you, that sounds like a good idea for the longer term , I will see if I can switch to a 30 weight , I have some 5w20 to use up first but will look at changing to a 30 weight for the future. Thanks.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

Also look into thicker trans oil. That cost ges the way the transmission shifts and feels.
It was switched to thinner stuff only for mpg.

 

[Nessism1]

Based on what you have mentioned, I think you are on the right track.

For break-in, I like to drive in an aggressive city driving cycle; accelerate briskly, but don't thrash it. Moderate throttle application and rpm. Don't baby the engine; drive it good and firm, but not abusively. And with a MT, use engine braking. What you don't want to do is drive too easy, with low load, at a constant speed.

My kid bought one of those cars and loved it. I love driving it, too, although I'm too old to get in and out of the thing. Long live the MT sports car!

 

[zeroptzero]

Also look into thicker trans oil. That cost ges the way the transmission shifts and feels.
It was switched to thinner stuff only for mpg.

I just put in Redline MT-LV , it is a thinner fluid but the shifting is amazing, really loving the change. My first choice was going to be Amsoil MTL 5w30, but I went with the Redline fluid. I wanted a dedicated MTF fluid , not just plain gear oil, and the difference feels good already. I put in Redline 75w90 gear oil in the differential as well, a bit thicker than the OEM fluid spec.

 

[zeroptzero]

Based on what you have mentioned, I think you are on the right track.

For break-in, I like to drive in an aggressive city driving cycle; accelerate briskly, but don't thrash it. Moderate throttle application and rpm. Don't baby the engine; drive it good and firm, but not abusively. And with a MT, use engine braking. What you don't want to do is drive too easy, with low load, at a constant speed.

My kid bought one of those cars and loved it. I love driving it, too, although I'm too old to get in and out of the thing. Long live the MT sports car!

Thank you, my thoughts are very similar to yours, and that is exactly how I will drive this car, I appreciate the reply on this.

These are amazing cars, I've only had it for 3 weeks but I love it. I previously had a Honda S2000 for 9 years, and this is as close as one can get to a modern S2000 in terms of drive experience. It is like an S2000 but I get better comfort, safety, technology, interior room, torque, fuel economy, and a fixed roof (I never liked the convertible and always ran my S2000 with a Mugen hardtop). It has a great manual tranny , so glad some manufacturers are still making these.

 

[Al]

I drove my last 4 cars like I stole them. I am a proponent of runnin g them hard right off the bat (easy on brakes) none use oil. My CX-30 I was a bit easier on but I still have redlined it a few times. I am at 500 miles. Breakin with the precise machinimg today is over rated.

 

[zeroptzero]

I have about 550 kms on the car now - 350 miles est. Today's drive I did some heavier throttle applications from 3000-5000 rpms in higher gears. Towards the end of today's drive I did some light load rpm sweeps up to 6000 & 6500 rpms. Max rpm on this car is 7500 rpms and I still have not taken it up that high. Up to this point in time rpms have been kept mostly at 4000 rpms, so I'm taking it up a bit higher right now. Oil temps are being kept around 95 degrees C, enough to burn off any moisture and impurities but not overly hot. Exterior ambient temps are about 5 degrees Celsius. The car feels and sounds great.

 

[TurboZedd-R]

After its up to temp I do a pull to redline and allow for vacuum when slowing down. This is normally done with less than 10 miles on the odometer, my R had it done at 6 miles. I've seen enough flawless cylinders following this method across multiple high hp cars to continue doing this. I also change break in oil at 300 miles and then 1k miles.YMMV.

 

[zeroptzero]

After its up to temp I do a pull to redline and allow for vacuum when slowing down. This is normally done with less than 10 miles on the odometer, my R had it done at 6 miles. I've seen enough flawless cylinders following this method across multiple high hp cars to continue doing this. I also change break in oil at 300 miles and then 1k miles.YMMV.

Thank you. I did a lot of vacuum engine braking on all of my drives. Wow you took it to redline really quick, nice to hear of your positive experience with that method. I may be dumping the factory oil around 1000-1500 kilometers est, not 100% sure yet.

 

[TurboZedd-R]

Thank you. I did a lot of vacuum engine braking on all of my drives. Wow you took it to redline really quick, nice to hear of your positive experience with that method. I may be dumping the factory oil around 1000-1500 kilometers est, not 100% sure yet.

I normally try to get it up to redline or close no later than 1 drive, but I have had some pretty long rides home (400 miles) where I just do a pull every half hour and vary rpm going home. Anything I've ever owned has never burned oil or given me a problem with this method. Sweet ride, the new styling on the twins are awesome.

 

[zeroptzero]

I normally try to get it up to redline or close no later than 1 drive, but I have had some pretty long rides home (400 miles) where I just do a pull every half hour and vary rpm going home. Anything I've ever owned has never burned oil or given me a problem with this method. Sweet ride, the new styling on the twins are awesome.

Thank you for the added info on this topic. I've been a Honda fan for about 30 years, having owned countless of classic Hondas from the good old days, lol. I had the new generation Honda Civic Si a few years ago which was really nice.

I would have loved a new CTR but ended up doing the Subaru BRZ. I had a Honda S2000 for about 9 years and ended up selling it a few years back. The BRZ stuck me as a modern S2000 in so many ways when I first sat in it at the dealer showroom, I just had to get one.

 

[2heeldrive]

It's not just the engine, but every component in the drivetrain (and brakes) that need to be broken in. I always do it by the book, and haven't had any issues in 30 years.

That being said, a Toyota engineer told me (many years ago) that a drunk monkey could break-in a modern engine. So, I guess it's hard to screw it up.

 

[zeroptzero]

It's not just the engine, but every component in the drivetrain (and brakes) that need to be broken in. I always do it by the book, and haven't had any issues in 30 years.

That being said, a Toyota engineer told me (many years ago) that a drunk monkey could break-in a modern engine. So, I guess it's hard to screw it up.

That is true, one my car I have the rear diff to consider and the transmission, and brakes to some degree. I agree with you, but I also think the "book" is often designed for a myriad of reasons that encompasses may possible situations when you have so many different owner types buying the same product. I don't believe driving cars too soft, but I also agree it is hard to mess things up.

I remember buying some Dodge vehicles in past years and the owner manual promoted high throttle runs in higher gears when it was safe to drive as such on open roads, to introduce pressure on the piston rings. Other manufacturers seem to promote a very soft break-in.

 

[TurboZedd-R]

Thank you for the added info on this topic. I've been a Honda fan for about 30 years, having owned countless of classic Hondas from the good old days, lol. I had the new generation Honda Civic Si a few years ago which was really nice.

I would have loved a new CTR but ended up doing the Subaru BRZ. I had a Honda S2000 for about 9 years and ended up selling it a few years back. The BRZ stuck me as a modern S2000 in so many ways when I first sat in it at the dealer showroom, I just had to get one.

I dabbled around in quite a few JDMS (370Z nismo, Sti) then fell into a German phase and climbed my way back out into a CTR. A shop I use for race setup has a CTR and a new 86 and said the 86 is like the best thing ever. Throw a tomei baffled oil pan and they are ready to rock.

 

[Marcozi]

I followed the factory's break-in process. Changed out the factory 0W20 for Ravenol VMP 5W30 and a new factory MANN filter at 1200 miles. Did the same at 4000 miles. Changed the manual transmission lube at 20k miles using the factory (ZF) fluid.

 

[zeroptzero]

I followed the factory's break-in process. Changed out the factory 0W20 for Ravenol VMP 5W30 and a new factory MANN filter at 1200 miles. Did the same at 4000 miles. Changed the manual transmission lube at 20k miles using the factory (ZF) fluid.

Thanks for the info. I'm curious to know what BMW recommends for break-in ?