Break In Oil Change - Kawi FX730 Commercial Engine
- Thread starter MattN
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MattN, for most OPE, I say that it doesn't matter what weight you use during break-in, just that you should change the oil early and often. At the 2 hour mark, then 6, then 10 or 12, then think about using the factory schedule.
Your motor has a spin-on filter? That will catch most of the break-in debris, so you don't have to drain it out so often. Maybe once at 10 hours, then assume the factory schedule.
boraticus is correct about the oil filter being able to hold a LOT of debris, so changing it often (after break in) is not necessary ... but then again, the dirtiest oil is in the filter. So, once I have secured a supply of reasonably-priced filters, I typically change the filter each time I change the oil.
I also use a bit of top oil (MMO, Lucas UCL or TCW3) in the gas every-other tankful when the engine is new to ease the breaking-in of the rings.
After break-in, I'd use 15W-40 in the warmer months (you're in Kentucky, after all) or 5W-40 year round ... both weights are HDEOs with the better add-pack.
Want 2nd (or 3rd or 4th) opinions locally? Don't talk to your dealer who is trying to sell you an overpriced OEM oil, ask independent small-engine guys. Most will tell you to use a HDEO oil. Weights will vary according to the local climate and the type of equipment in question.
Your motor has a spin-on filter? That will catch most of the break-in debris, so you don't have to drain it out so often. Maybe once at 10 hours, then assume the factory schedule.
boraticus is correct about the oil filter being able to hold a LOT of debris, so changing it often (after break in) is not necessary ... but then again, the dirtiest oil is in the filter. So, once I have secured a supply of reasonably-priced filters, I typically change the filter each time I change the oil.
I also use a bit of top oil (MMO, Lucas UCL or TCW3) in the gas every-other tankful when the engine is new to ease the breaking-in of the rings.
After break-in, I'd use 15W-40 in the warmer months (you're in Kentucky, after all) or 5W-40 year round ... both weights are HDEOs with the better add-pack.
Want 2nd (or 3rd or 4th) opinions locally? Don't talk to your dealer who is trying to sell you an overpriced OEM oil, ask independent small-engine guys. Most will tell you to use a HDEO oil. Weights will vary according to the local climate and the type of equipment in question.
These engines aren't needy or high maintainence, just follow your manual, first change at 8 hrs. then 100 hr. intervals. I have one with over 500 hrs. and it gets 10w-30 TurfGard (Deere product), I have over half a dozen air cooled engines running pumps,generators, and my mower, all get the TurfGard, no make-up oil has been needed between oil changes. For my mower I use Motorcraft 836 filter, I think they're around $3, mower is a Deere X530.
I looked at the manual of the Toro Z-Master Commercial 3000 mower and it stated the following:
Servicing the Engine Oil
Oil Type: Detergent oil (API service SG, SH, SJ, or SL)
Crankcase Capacity: with a filter change, 2.1 L (2.2 US qt);
without a filter change, 1.8 L (1.9 US qt)
Note: Use of multi-grade oils (5W-20, 10W-30, or 10W-40)
will increase oil consumption. Check the oil level more
frequently when using them.
The oil in question is simply automotive oil. I don't know WHY using a multi-viscosity oil would cause higher oil consumption as 10W-40 and SAE 40 are both 40W at operating temperature.
Does Toro use a variety of different engines on that particular mower, I don't know.
Servicing the Engine Oil
Oil Type: Detergent oil (API service SG, SH, SJ, or SL)
Crankcase Capacity: with a filter change, 2.1 L (2.2 US qt);
without a filter change, 1.8 L (1.9 US qt)
Note: Use of multi-grade oils (5W-20, 10W-30, or 10W-40)
will increase oil consumption. Check the oil level more
frequently when using them.
The oil in question is simply automotive oil. I don't know WHY using a multi-viscosity oil would cause higher oil consumption as 10W-40 and SAE 40 are both 40W at operating temperature.
Does Toro use a variety of different engines on that particular mower, I don't know.
stchman, odd that Toro doesn't specify a weight ... just that the multi-vis oils will be consumed faster.
This is true as the viscosity improvers that bridge the gap are not as stable as pure oil. They are better than they used to be, but with air-cooled engines, all bets are off.
Running the machine in extreme heat where most multi-vis oils get destroyed, thinned out and consumed? use a 15W-40 gas/diesel (HDEO) oil.
Oh, and it's odd that Toro would have their own recommendations. Usually, they tell you to refer to a separate manual for the engine.
This is true as the viscosity improvers that bridge the gap are not as stable as pure oil. They are better than they used to be, but with air-cooled engines, all bets are off.
Running the machine in extreme heat where most multi-vis oils get destroyed, thinned out and consumed? use a 15W-40 gas/diesel (HDEO) oil.
Oh, and it's odd that Toro would have their own recommendations. Usually, they tell you to refer to a separate manual for the engine.
Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
stchman, odd that Toro doesn't specify a weight ... just that the multi-vis oils will be consumed faster.
This is true as the viscosity improvers that bridge the gap are not as stable as pure oil. They are better than they used to be, but with air-cooled engines, all bets are off.
Running the machine in extreme heat where most multi-vis oils get destroyed, thinned out and consumed? use a 15W-40 gas/diesel (HDEO) oil.
Oh, and it's odd that Toro would have their own recommendations. Usually, they tell you to refer to a separate manual for the engine.
Toro offers this Kawasaki FX730 and a Kohler EFI 25 HP on the 3000 series. There is a full manual from Kawasaki that came with the mower, and it gives a chart for air temps & recommended oil types.
Kawi doesn't show 15W-40 in their chart, and that is my only concern.
stchman, odd that Toro doesn't specify a weight ... just that the multi-vis oils will be consumed faster.
This is true as the viscosity improvers that bridge the gap are not as stable as pure oil. They are better than they used to be, but with air-cooled engines, all bets are off.
Running the machine in extreme heat where most multi-vis oils get destroyed, thinned out and consumed? use a 15W-40 gas/diesel (HDEO) oil.
Oh, and it's odd that Toro would have their own recommendations. Usually, they tell you to refer to a separate manual for the engine.
Toro offers this Kawasaki FX730 and a Kohler EFI 25 HP on the 3000 series. There is a full manual from Kawasaki that came with the mower, and it gives a chart for air temps & recommended oil types.
Kawi doesn't show 15W-40 in their chart, and that is my only concern.
Originally Posted By: Bud_One
Co-worker of mine has a Husqvarna Zero turn with a Briggs twin - running Rotella T5 10W30 and has had no issues for over a year.
I run Rotella T5 in my generator, pressure washer, and lawn tractor. I prefer Delvac pr Delo, but can't find it locally in 10w30. All my equipment runs like new, and the lawn tractor has roughly 450 hours on it.
Co-worker of mine has a Husqvarna Zero turn with a Briggs twin - running Rotella T5 10W30 and has had no issues for over a year.
I run Rotella T5 in my generator, pressure washer, and lawn tractor. I prefer Delvac pr Delo, but can't find it locally in 10w30. All my equipment runs like new, and the lawn tractor has roughly 450 hours on it.
"Kawi doesn't show 15W-40 in their chart, and that is my only concern."
That is a bit odd ... but one thing about the manuals, they usually don't give you the 100% version of the answer ... but something simplified instead.
Anything 10W-40 can do, 15W-40 can do better EXCEPT flow at start up ... and I wouldn't think that would be a prime concern for someone in Kentucky. Heck, it is only a moderate concern for me in upstate NY (the warmest half of the year).
For the coldest months, you could switch to a 5W-40 synthetic as others have suggested above. I have switched many engines back and forth ... mineral in the summer, synthetic in the winter. Then again, you live in Kentucky and I might not bother.
That is a bit odd ... but one thing about the manuals, they usually don't give you the 100% version of the answer ... but something simplified instead.
Anything 10W-40 can do, 15W-40 can do better EXCEPT flow at start up ... and I wouldn't think that would be a prime concern for someone in Kentucky. Heck, it is only a moderate concern for me in upstate NY (the warmest half of the year).
For the coldest months, you could switch to a 5W-40 synthetic as others have suggested above. I have switched many engines back and forth ... mineral in the summer, synthetic in the winter. Then again, you live in Kentucky and I might not bother.
Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
"Kawi doesn't show 15W-40 in their chart, and that is my only concern."
That is a bit odd ... but one thing about the manuals, they usually don't give you the 100% version of the answer ... but something simplified instead.
Anything 10W-40 can do, 15W-40 can do better EXCEPT flow at start up ... and I wouldn't think that would be a prime concern for someone in Kentucky. Heck, it is only a moderate concern for me in upstate NY (the warmest half of the year).
For the coldest months, you could switch to a 5W-40 synthetic as others have suggested above. I have switched many engines back and forth ... mineral in the summer, synthetic in the winter. Then again, you live in Kentucky and I might not bother.
Just remember that 30 and 40 straight weight oil are one of Kawasaki recommendations. Although not when its cold. If 15w40 concerns you, then 30 and 40 wt. recommendations should be a reason to ease your concerns.
"Kawi doesn't show 15W-40 in their chart, and that is my only concern."
That is a bit odd ... but one thing about the manuals, they usually don't give you the 100% version of the answer ... but something simplified instead.
Anything 10W-40 can do, 15W-40 can do better EXCEPT flow at start up ... and I wouldn't think that would be a prime concern for someone in Kentucky. Heck, it is only a moderate concern for me in upstate NY (the warmest half of the year).
For the coldest months, you could switch to a 5W-40 synthetic as others have suggested above. I have switched many engines back and forth ... mineral in the summer, synthetic in the winter. Then again, you live in Kentucky and I might not bother.
Just remember that 30 and 40 straight weight oil are one of Kawasaki recommendations. Although not when its cold. If 15w40 concerns you, then 30 and 40 wt. recommendations should be a reason to ease your concerns.
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