Champion Generator Oil

OilUzer

Thread starter
Joined
Aug 1, 2017
Messages
3,180
I bought a Champion generator and according to the operator's manual:

"The recommended oil type for typical use is 10W-30 automotive oil."

It also has a chart of "Recommended Engine Oil Type" showing 10W-30, 5W-30, 10W-40 and 5W-30 Full Synthetic.

Also:

"Notice:
Synthetic oil may be used after the 5 hour initial break-in period. Using synthetic oil does not increase the recommended oil change interval."

Under "Add Engine Oil" section:
Damage to the generator as a result of failing to follow these instructions will void your warranty.

Out of curiosity, I called their tech support number and was told to use conventional oil for the break-in period.

I have M1 EP 10W-30, M1 Euro 0/5W-40, Castrol Edge Euro 5W-30, Kirkland 5W-30 and some unopened old SAE 30 ...

I have read after some car engine rebuilds, they use dino first ... But never paid much attention since it never applied to me.

Not a big deal to buy some dino but I am curious about the "conventional oil" recommendation!
Any ideas?
 
Seriously

It does not matter.

I would use whatever oil you have - old SAE 30 would be good -

Start it up let it idle a few minutes - put a small load on it for 10 minutes - put a half load on it for 20 minutes put a heavy load on it for 10 minutes.

Medium load another 20 then let it idle for a minute shut it off and change the oil.

If you are OCD repeat -

I would call it good but change the oil again after a few hours then you are gtg.
 
I broke in my open frame Champion 4000/3500 with 10w-30 M1 High Mileage for five hours, then ran it an additional 30 hours on that same oil for the second OCI. After that I switched to 5w-40 Rotella T6. This machine has been supplanted by a Predator 3500 inverter generator that went through the same break in procedure. Personally I believe the notion of breaking in engines on conventional oil is outdated folklore or urban legend.
 
Last edited:
I bought a Champion generator and according to the operator's manual:

"The recommended oil type for typical use is 10W-30 automotive oil."

...

I have M1 EP 10W-30, M1 Euro 0/5W-40, Castrol Edge Euro 5W-30, Kirkland 5W-30 and some unopened old SAE 30 ...
...
Any ideas?
Any of what you have there in stock is fine. Good luck with your generator. </thread>
 
Is that a portable or whole house - whole house tend to have filters
portable. it is not typical genny
Is that a portable or whole house - whole house tend to have filters
it is a hd industrial portable genny. i used to use it for core drilling in areas that did not have power within 100ft 10ga power cord.

i need to change oil and filter had no done so for 3 years😁
IMG_20250110_165436697_HDR.webp
IMG_20250110_165443322_HDR.webp
 
Thanks everyone!

Generator has no filter.
It's an Inverter 6250/5000 Watts (Starting/Running). Not that big to come with oil filter.

I will look into a magnetic dipstick. Never used one for the Honda lawnmower & pressure washer. It'll be interesting to see if it picks up anything!

I used to be a 100% dino/conventional in all my cars till 2017 ... Now that I am a 100% syn snob, it was hard to convince myself that dino will do better than some fancy syn for the the break-in period. lol you guys explained some of the historical reasons though! I am going to read some of the rebuild/conventional oil threads.

As far as straight SAE 30, a few years back I started using automotive oil in my lawnmower and pressure washer so I have some leftover SAE 30. My only concern was that it is not a recommended "Automotive" oil (see my 1st post) and I wasn't sure if it may be missing some required detergents, additives, etc. The lawnmower and pressure washer have survived decades on SAE 30 so I'm sure it will be fine. The only problem is that thanks to bitog, I've become more OCD about oil. ;)
 
Synthetic oil is fine for engine break it. Base type makes no difference for breaking an engine in.

That said, yeah total waste of money. Dump the oil early.

I used syn for my break in because that is all I had, dumped after a few hours. Now I'm a couple years on this OCI, oil is fine. I might change this coming summer. HF 9500 Predator.
What is your go to small engine oil choice?
 
If the 30 weight is non detergent oil don't use it...................

I have some SAE 30 that is specific to OPE. Using it when it is warm outside will not harm your generator.

What exactly is the SAE 30 you have?

iirc, Briggs and Stratton small (1QT ?) bottles. Have to dig them out some boxes in the garage. It was much cheaper to use the automotive oil so they've been sitting in the garage.
 
As far as straight SAE 30, a few years back I started using automotive oil in my lawnmower and pressure washer so I have some leftover SAE 30. My only concern was that it is not a recommended "Automotive" oil (see my 1st post) and I wasn't sure if it may be missing some required detergents, additives, etc. The lawnmower and pressure washer have survived decades on SAE 30 so I'm sure it will be fine. The only problem is that thanks to bitog, I've become more OCD about oil. ;)
If you stick to the API license the oil holds then that tells you whether it has what's required. This is independent of the fact that it's a monograde or a multi.
 
Back
Top