Break In Oil Change - Kawi FX730 Commercial Engine

[MattN]

Hi, first time post here! I just bought a Toro Z-Master 3000 Series commercial mower, and it has a Kawasaki FX730 V-Twin engine. The engine manual recommends changing the oil at 8 hours, however it doesn't specify a particular weight of oil or type. The manual has a diagram of SAE30, SAE40, 10W-30/10W-40, 5W-20 all being okay to use (based on outdoor temperature per the chart depicting this info).

I was thinking running 10W-40 dino oil, and was looking at oils on Kawasaki's engine website. They have their K-Tech line of oils. It mentions the following:

10W-30, 10W-40, and 20W-50 synthetic blend oils provide ultimate performance and protection in both low and high temperature applications, including cold-weather startup

Is this oil truly synthetic, or just a multi-weight oil? I was under the impression that I'd want to hold off for quite a few hours before switching to synthetic. What does everyone recommend with these air cooled engines? Thanks!

 

[CT8]

15w-40 HDEO oil. Conventional or syn.

 

[MattN]

HDEO? Sorry, noob here... lol

 

[Bud_One]

Heavy Duty Engine Oil

Rotella , Delvac , Delo... etc.

 

[MattN]

I'm not doubting your advice at all, but my Toro dealer specifically said don't use Rotella T because it foams in small engines. This is the first time I've ever heard anyone say something bad about Rotella. I trust my dealer, but I'm not so sure I like their oil rrecommendations. They carry B/S, Kohler, and Wolf Head oil. Because of this, I probably will buy oil elsewhere.

 

[Chris142]

The toro dealer is wrong.rotella is the only hdeo that's jaso rated for motorcycles. If a motorcycle trans won't foam it up a small engine sure won't.

 

[userfriendly]

I did the 1st change on mine at 2 hours, SAE 30,
and the 2nd at 8 hours 0W40 HDMO.

Thirty months later at 33 hours, 10W40 motorcycle oil.

Instead of using the tiny stock oil filter, I got
a better bigger one with a ADBV instead.

 

[Buzzsaw]

Congratulations on a nice mower. I run Rotella 15w40 in my Kawasaki engine without any problems.

 

[tony1679]

My mom also just bought a new mower with a Kawasaki (Residential, FR691V, Hustler). After polling this site, calling MULTIPLE dealers in the area, calling Hustler directly, and calling Kawasaki directly, I have learned a few things. First, nobody (except folks at this site) has the slightest clue what they are talking about when it comes to oil. The dealers all gave different stories, including "it comes with conventional 10W-30. If you switch to synthetic, the rings will harden and crack. Then you will have major issues."

Hustler surprisingly gave the best info, second to this site. Kawasaki said anything but 20W-50 would cause explosions and death, even though the factory fill is 10W-30. Idiots. I personally feel 5W-20 is too thin for an air cooled engine. I think 20W-50 is too thick. Here is my thread with more info, an interesting read:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3776789/New_Hustler_-_Owner's_Manual_C#Post3776789

Second, if your mower takes the 49065-7007 Kawi filter, I have found (according to O'Reilly) the Wix 57035 does have an anti-drainback valve (haven't found out for sure yet though). If you use a different size filter, make sure the bypass valve opens at the same pressure.

My plan is to run a full-synthetic 5W-30 (Valvoline Synpower most likely, since I already buy that for the rest of my vehicles AND my Briggs mower), maybe 10W-30 to satisfy warranty until expired. I personally think switching to synthetic at the 8hr change will be just fine. But remember, residential here. Commercial is a different animal. But any XW-30 or XW-40 changed at appropriate intervals will make the engine outlive the mower.

 

[NH73]

Originally Posted By: tony1679
:

Second, if your mower takes the 49065-7007 Kawi filter, I have found (according to O'Reilly) the Wix 57035 does have an anti-drainback valve (haven't found out for sure yet though). If you use a different size filter, make sure the bypass valve opens at the same pressure.



Never knew that, how do you find such information out? When does Kawasaki's filters bypass valve open?

 

[MattN]

On my little Kawi FR691, I used the OEM Kawi oil filter. Very interesting info guys. Keep it coming!

 

[racer12306]

I too called Kawasaki and the person claimed that their filters have a ADBV. However, he couldn't tell me the bypass setting.

Here is another thread to reference: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...s_-#Post3782298

I changed to Super Tech 30 at 5 hours, plan to do so again at 10 hrs then at 15 hours use Amsoil 4 stroke 30/10w30 at 100 hour intervals per the manual.

 

[Lawn_Care]

Fram 3614 from - anywhere - was a perfect fit for my Kawasaki FR651V engine on my Z-turn. Only a few bucks, slightly larger (more capacity). Save your money, no need for an OEM filter. Just looked it up, same filter on yours, so quite a few choices. 3614/10241/51348 (Fram/Puro/Wix), also a Napa 1056.

For oil - Rotella or Delo 15W-40 is what I run in the summer heat. Spring and fall I will run Rotella or Delo 5W-40.

And No, these oils won't foam up in small engines and are much more robust oils than anything with Kawasaki's name on it.

 

[Lawn_Care]

Originally Posted By: MattN
I'm not doubting your advice at all, but my Toro dealer specifically said don't use Rotella T because it foams in small engines.


If this is the case, then my little Honda 50cc Scooter (with 12,300 miles on it) would've died quite a long time ago. It's had a steady diet of Rotella T6 since it was new. I dumped it's factory oil at 10 miles, used a cheap 10W-40 and dumped it at 60 miles, then Rotella T6 (or occasionally DELO) 5W-40 ever since.

The dealer is just trying to get you to buy his 'dealership' oils at inflated prices - a common practice in the motorcycle world as well, unfortunately.

 

[racer12306]

i was going to buy Kawi oil filters. What's $10 every other year for a filter, no big deal. But I've had three with surface rust on them from my local dealer. One was bad enough to return, the other two i was able to scrub off and oil for protection until they got used.

I'll be putting a 3614 size on for the 100 hour intervals.

 

[bubbatime]

OP, the dealer gave you a line of bullsnit. Heavy Duty Engine Oils (Rotella, Delo) are IDEAL for outdoor power equipment due to their additive package. More than likely the dealer wants you to come to him and buy oils/filters from him, thus his recommendation to avoid HDEO.

You are smart for picking a 40 weight oil. These engines LOVE a 40 weight oil. Not that a 10W30 would be bad, but you will have less consumption on a 40 weight and have a little more margin or error on a 40 weight in case you neglect to change your oil on time.

Bypass the 10W40 and go straight to 15W40. Most 10W40 oils are not as durable and have a weaker additive package than even your cheapest SuperTech 15W40 oil.

My recommendation is to run a conventional 15W40 oil for at least the first 50 hours. If you want to run synthetic, than 5W40 Rotella, Delo, Delvac would be a top pick.

Brand of oil doesn't really matter when it comes to HDEO as even the cheapest store brands offer excellent results in new and used oil analysis.

 

[Bud_One]

Co-worker of mine has a Husqvarna Zero turn with a Briggs twin - running Rotella T5 10W30 and has had no issues for over a year.

 

[MattN]

Wouldn't a 10W-40 protect more in colder weather than 15W-40? It will be times in the dead of winter (0-20F) that I might need to start and move the mower in my uninsulated garage.

Originally Posted By: bubbatime
OP, the dealer gave you a line of bullsnit. Heavy Duty Engine Oils (Rotella, Delo) are IDEAL for outdoor power equipment due to their additive package. More than likely the dealer wants you to come to him and buy oils/filters from him, thus his recommendation to avoid HDEO.

You are smart for picking a 40 weight oil. These engines LOVE a 40 weight oil. Not that a 10W30 would be bad, but you will have less consumption on a 40 weight and have a little more margin or error on a 40 weight in case you neglect to change your oil on time.

Bypass the 10W40 and go straight to 15W40. Most 10W40 oils are not as durable and have a weaker additive package than even your cheapest SuperTech 15W40 oil.

My recommendation is to run a conventional 15W40 oil for at least the first 50 hours. If you want to run synthetic, than 5W40 Rotella, Delo, Delvac would be a top pick.

Brand of oil doesn't really matter when it comes to HDEO as even the cheapest store brands offer excellent results in new and used oil analysis.

 

[Lawn_Care]

Originally Posted By: MattN
Wouldn't a 10W-40 protect more in colder weather than 15W-40? It will be times in the dead of winter (0-20F) that I might need to start and move the mower in my uninsulated garage.


That's why I use a 15W-40 in the heat of the summer, and a 5W-40 in the fall through mid spring. The colder weather is my down-time for cleaning out the shed, working on stuff, etc. I'm in a similar situation, my shed isn't insulated either and I do have to move the mowers from time to time. I could use the 5W-40 year-around with no trouble, but i'm cheap and the regular 15W-40 is perfect for the summer months anyway.

 

[MattN]

Originally Posted By: Lawn_Care
Originally Posted By: MattN
Wouldn't a 10W-40 protect more in colder weather than 15W-40? It will be times in the dead of winter (0-20F) that I might need to start and move the mower in my uninsulated garage.


That's why I use a 15W-40 in the heat of the summer, and a 5W-40 in the fall through mid spring. The colder weather is my down-time for cleaning out the shed, working on stuff, etc. I'm in a similar situation, my shed isn't insulated either and I do have to move the mowers from time to time. I could use the 5W-40 year-around with no trouble, but i'm cheap and the regular 15W-40 is perfect for the summer months anyway.


That's why I was thinking use 10W-40 (or 5W-40??) year around?