Brake Fluid - Biggest Neglect, Biggest Benefit

Major difference in feel on all the jobs I've done. Even the wife notices each time I do. Maybe the car/model makes a difference.

Excellent tip! 500ml syringe with plastic hose makes this a 2 minute job! I do this for power steering yearly on the Dodge Van. Takes ATF+4. One quart lasts me 3 years.
Fluid is not compressible. That fluid deteriorated, but if you have dramatic change in feel, the brakes had air pocket before and it was flushed out now.
 
Drain and fill the reservoir with each oil change helps keep it fresh.
I've always wondered how much the fluid mixes? I guess with brake heat, there is a bit of convection forces but those are very small horizontal lines going to the back brakes at least. I was dumping in new fluid into the reservoir often for a rear cylinder that leaked for a week, and when I did the front brakes a while later, I'm pretty sure the front line still had some old nasty stuff in it?
 
Rolls Royce "used" to say, every 100,000 miles! Not sure what fluid spec they were using.
Mercedes now says "Every 20,000 miles" Not sure if there is a time (year) requirement.
Anyway, my 2018 MB is just turning over 20,000 mi, so I'm probably going to let the dealership do it.
I'm no longer able to get under the car for that kind of work.
 
I'm going to just say it. Most neglect their brake fluid. It took me a few decades to realize how easy and cheap it is to bleed fresh fluid into the lines yearly and the braking difference with $5 in fluid is HUGE.

Recently bought a 2014 Caddy ATS, and extracted a brown slurry from the brake lines. It's going to get two full bleeds over the next month. My wife commented "OMG, what's wrong with those brakes".... because she so used to my mint maintenance of brake systems on our cars. The brakes were fine, but the fluid was terrible.

Benefits of regular bleeding:
- much better peddle feel and response; can make the difference between hitting the moose, or not.
- Keeps contaminates out of your brake lines which are no doubt rotting things from the inside.
- Calipers will last longer
- Pads/Rotors will wear better
- Less brake fade under heavy/continuous braking; Having a cabin in Cape Breton highlands exposed old fluid quick driving those roads.
- Less likely to be stranded due to a seized caliper that rotted from the inside (happened twice to me before I learned).

I don't care the brand. I used ST DOT3 for the van, along with a full four corner brake tear down, lube, rebuild with new rotors, pads and final bleed. Brakes are so good it's silly. The job cost me $300, including shop supplies. Now it gets $5 of fluid a season and brakes get an annual cleaning for the next 50k.

This is a repeat for the old timers, but could be good info for new BITOG'ers.
The big thing with newer vehicles is that clean brake fluid is parametric for the abs and traction control to operate correctly.
 
I use a vacuum bleeder. Often, even with 25+ inches of vacuum, it doesn't pull anything. I give the pedal a quick stab to break something loose and then it flows and flows.

Whatever that "something" is that I broke loose, it proves that brake fluid isn't always fluid.
 
Rolls Royce "used" to say, every 100,000 miles! Not sure what fluid spec they were using.
Mercedes now says "Every 20,000 miles" Not sure if there is a time (year) requirement.
Anyway, my 2018 MB is just turning over 20,000 mi, so I'm probably going to let the dealership do it.
I'm no longer able to get under the car for that kind of work.
With sophisticated ABS and traction control systems in modern cars, the need for cleanliness and dry fluid is probably a lot higher. Plus, DOT 4 fluid has less water holding capacity before phase separation occurs.
 
Rolls Royce "used" to say, every 100,000 miles! Not sure what fluid spec they were using.
Mercedes now says "Every 20,000 miles" Not sure if there is a time (year) requirement.
Anyway, my 2018 MB is just turning over 20,000 mi, so I'm probably going to let the dealership do it.
I'm no longer able to get under the car for that kind of work.
MB has to have year interval. In Europe it is strictly based on year interval and it is always every two years.
It is tested during technical inspection before car registration.
 
I remember being in Firestone many years ago and they recommended a brake fluid flush to a woman. She became upset so I felt I had to interject and tell her it should be replaced every 2 years as the fluid is hygroscopic. She proceeded to slap me in the face saying not to use suggestive words like that
 
How does clarity represent fluid condition? Moisture is not the only driver of deterioration. The fluid's additive package could be depleted, resulting in corrosion to components.
I use Phoenix brake fluid test strips for copper content. Time to change when test strip turns from clear to pink color. Only turned colors once when I was living in hot and humid TX. And water content using meter was above 2% as well.

Still need to flush my GX460. Test are good but it’s still on OEM/factory fill on a 2019. Have a cap and non motiv brand pressure bleeder for lexus/toyota Just need to get it done. Maybe next week…

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Rolls Royce "used" to say, every 100,000 miles! Not sure what fluid spec they were using.
Mercedes now says "Every 20,000 miles" Not sure if there is a time (year) requirement.
Anyway, my 2018 MB is just turning over 20,000 mi, so I'm probably going to let the dealership do it.
I'm no longer able to get under the car for that kind of work.
Some RR cars used a system designed by Citroen and used LHM hydraulic fluid. This stuff is not the same or compatible with common DOT 3, 4, 5.1 brake fluids. Other models used RR363 fluid and later models used DOT 4. The 363 and LHM fluid systems could hold up to 10 ltr of fluid as the system used it to power the suspension and PS also.

https://www.flyingspares.com/news/p...ic-system-mineral-brake-fluid-ut13741pap.html
 
I have seen calipers rust from the inside out. My ford focus did that before I learned how to work on my own car. Never changed the brake fluid in that one. My ford flex? Same age and I changed the fluid and the inside of the caliper was in a better condition.
I think I did ruin the calipers when I was retracting the rear calipers by turning them and twisted the rubber dust boot.
 
Just did a full flush on a BMW 3 series, along with replacing the pads. Be aware that for some vehicles, as with mine, it's not just DOT 4, but DOT 4 low viscosity brake fluid that should be used. The majority of readily available brake fluids at your local auto parts chain are NOT low viscosity. After some research I was able to identify Motul DOT 4 LV (Class 6), Pentosin DOT 4LV and ATE SL6 DOT 4 LV that meet the low viscosity criteria and are carried or can be easily ordered by my local auto parts retailers.
 
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