Or just straight up galvanic corrosion between steel bleeder and aluminum caliper body. My cars get dunked in salt water often, this is an issue for me with brakes.Right...... Brakes are nothing to take even the slightest chances with.
Agree with you. No one should be putting just anything (lube or sealant) on those threads. Not on the "valve" threads as they are not what seals, they seal on the conical mating surface. It is certainly not recommended to put anything at all on the bleeder valves. The stuff we used on the valve body threads was at first a copper/graphite based anti seize and then went to a 100% synthetic/ceramic anti seize product. Just put a tiny amount on the threads before inserting into the calipers. Never had any issues. No one should plan to or have to keep removing the complete valve assembly out of the calipers. I have heard guys who live in the northern/winter time "salt belt" removing to clean or even replacing the valve assemblies when doing brake jobs to prevent seized parts. Glad I never experienced that type problems.
That one is strange looking to me the way the galling took place in the center. Not cross threaded or it would look different. My guess is some type of metal shavings or trash got in there as that valve assembly was installed whenever?
For that reason, I apply a tiny bit of antiseize to the threads of a bleeder, then wipe the bleeder screw off, ensuring that there is NO antiseize on the base/unthreaded part of the bleed screw. No contamination, but a fighting chance that they won’t get stuck and strip out like this.
Had the left front outboard bleeder strip out on the V70R when I first got the car (four piston Brembo calipers, two bleed screws each). For professional curiosity, I attempted a TimeSert thread repair. It didn’t work. Couldn’t get a good seal, so I got a new caliper, which hurt.
Then, I found a set of four used R calipers on eBay from Erie Vovo - and I bought all 4.
Just in case this happens again.