BMW E90 Thrust Arm Bushings

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Oct 6, 2020
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I'm looking at replacing these on my car, as the wheel moves a little bit when I brake. I don't think it's the rotors, although they are quite rusty and worn.

In order to replace the bushing, I would have to press out the bushing and press a new one in. Going this route would defintley be cheaper, not considering the tools needed to press the bushing in. Any cheap way to remove and press the new bushings in?

Also: Lemforder or Meyle HD?

The other option would be to replace the whole arm itself.

I haven't been able to thouroughly inspect the old bushing, as I need to remove the bottom splash tray.

@edyvw

I attached some images below:


MEY-3146100000HD.JPG
LEM-3034601.jpg
MEY-3160350005HD.jpg
 
I investigated the same on my E60 M5. I ended up ordering URO control arms becuase they are cost effective.

The guide for installing monoball joints explains pressing in and out with a jack screw and cups.


Replacing the arm also gets you a new ball joint.

I found the RA catalog had alot more brand options if I searched by partnumber rather than year,make,model on the BMW.
 
Thrust arm is done! At that mileage, there is nothing to think about. If wheel moves, it is thrust arm 1000%.
I would also change ball joint, upper control arm and tie rod end.
You are not tracking car, go Lamfoerder. Mayle HD is good bcs. it is full rubber and has bigger insert. But, it won’t last as long as Lemforder and it won’t be as precise on imperfections on the road.
 
Ball joint is on the control arm. If steering wheel moves right, is it the passenger thrust arm? Obviously I’m going to replace both

I’ll try to inspect this weekend
 
I've used both Lemforder and Meyle HD. For high wear/stress front suspension areas I go with Meyle HD when they are available for that fitment. On my E39, OE front control arm bushing was gone by 75K miles (Lemforder?) Meyle HD was going strong for the next 130k miles.
 
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I've done this on 3 E9x cars. I replace the entire arm each time. Much less hassle, and the ball joints are usually on their way out. I went with Lemforder.
Yes same for my old E34, it wasn't that much more expensive and prevented having to to the job twice (which wasn't all that easy to do).

Same with me and Lemforder. The Meyle ones I tried first wore out in about 20,000 miles, but perhaps things have changed since then. Just don't use Karlyn.
 
Ball joint is on the control arm. If steering wheel moves right, is it the passenger thrust arm? Obviously I’m going to replace both

I’ll try to inspect this weekend
Oh yeah, I forgot yours is RWD. Not sure about moving right or left. But wheel moving under braking? Thrust arm bushing! Ten million % :)
 
Yes same for my old E34, it wasn't that much more expensive and prevented having to to the job twice (which wasn't all that easy to do).

Same with me and Lemforder. The Meyle ones I tried first wore out in about 20,000 miles, but perhaps things have changed since then. Just don't use Karlyn.
Meyle HD is not hydro bushing. So, it is bit stiffer and provides good feedback. But does not last long. I have them strictly for track purposes. But I don’t expect 10-15k out of them.
They are good compromise between hydro bushing and polyurethane.
 
Meyle HD is not hydro bushing. So, it is bit stiffer and provides good feedback. But does not last long. I have them strictly for track purposes. But I don’t expect 10-15k out of them.
They are good compromise between hydro bushing and polyurethane.
Back in the day with my E34 530i the popular "fix" among the cool kids was to use the thrust arm bushings from the 540i.
 
Also - how do i know if motor mounts are shot?
Other than a visual inspection you'll notice a fairly obvious vibration which goes away when the car is put in gear. You can also look at the amount of engine movement. It should be fairly stable at idle and if you notice a lot of movement going on/off throttle it could be worn.

Visually depending on the type used the upper portion of the mount will have collapsed allowing the engine to rest on the metal frame of the mount itself or the mount will have three tiers of rubber and the upper tier will collapse/tear.
 
Other than a visual inspection you'll notice a fairly obvious vibration which goes away when the car is put in gear. You can also look at the amount of engine movement. It should be fairly stable at idle and if you notice a lot of movement going on/off throttle it could be worn.

Visually depending on the type used the upper portion of the mount will have collapsed allowing the engine to rest on the metal frame of the mount itself or the mount will have three tiers of rubber and the upper tier will collapse/tear.
Plus if the mounts are liquid filled like many thrust arm bushings you will see a leak of sticky fluid both on the mount and under the car (see below). With my E34 when this motor mount broke you could actually lose the engine to coolant loss, once the engine torqued over the radiator fan would disintegrate and often puncture the radiator. Fortunately that did not happen on mine although the fan lost several blades and the shroud was toast.

mount.jpg
 
Sorry, I forgot to reply. Crazy busy


I have some audible clunk when stopping. I’m guessing it’s the weight shifting? Thrust arm bushing is bottomming out?

If I go Lemforder thrust arms, is alignment needed?
If alignment is needed, I might as well replace tie rods, too.

I guess we are saying Meyle hd is no good?
 
TRW M3 front control arm kit is on sale right now for $306. Pretty tempting haha

FCP euro has a sale going on now, so will probably order some parts
 
TRW M3 front control arm kit is on sale right now for $306. Pretty tempting haha

FCP euro has a sale going on now, so will probably order some parts
TRW parts aren't up to the task. There was a discussion on 2Addicts about TRW parts. Conclusion is that they are junque.
 
are you talking about how now they are made in Melaysia?

TRW is most likely oem.

And I will most likely not buy them now, and just change the bushing until more suspension work is needed
 
Sorry, I forgot to reply. Crazy busy


I have some audible clunk when stopping. I’m guessing it’s the weight shifting? Thrust arm bushing is bottomming out?

If I go Lemforder thrust arms, is alignment needed?
If alignment is needed, I might as well replace tie rods, too.

I guess we are saying Meyle hd is no good?
Alignment is always required when suspension components (except sway bars) are replaced.

Maybe you should inspect your vehicle before firing the parts cannon.
 
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