Depending on where you live these can be a royal PITA. I hate them. LOL
Do control arms need to be replaced in pairs? Subaru problem with the right side
- Thread starter slacktide_bitog
- Start date
What did you wind up going with as regards brand and replacement method? @slacktide_bitog
I’m researching control arms and bushings now.
I’m researching control arms and bushings now.
What did you wind up going with as regards brand and replacement method? @slacktide_bitog
I’m researching control arms and bushings now.
I bought the Suspensia control arms, and they are fine so far. I had a shop do the install.
Delphi *does* make control arms for the SJ now.
Thanks. It looks like Delphi makes replacements for my Honda Fit. Are there different tiers of quality made by Delphi or is everything that they make generally of good quality for aftermarket?
Delphi seems to only have one aftermarket tier. The parts seem to be of good quality for aftermarket. They are probably made by Disa in Turkey. Disa is a major OE supplier.
Got it. It’s pretty much down to Delphi or Mevotech’s Supreme line for this car; which have grease fittings for the ball joints.
Got it. It’s pretty much down to Delphi or Mevotech’s Supreme line for this car; which have grease fittings for the ball joints.
Delphi is better than Mevotech. Also, the grease fittings are stupid and outdated/obsolete. The sealed ball joints are better.
I thought that might be the case. Thanks for the advice.
Glad to hear the Suspensia is doing well for you so far.
Going through this on the Mad Max SJ Forester now. She brought it over tonight and I was shocked at the amount of play in the front lower bushing on the RH side.
I ordered new OEM bushings as 20204AG011 and 20204AG030 -- I hope that's correct!!
I really enjoy press work (it's maybe just a machinist thing?) so looking forward to it.
Her gf wanted me to order Mevotech but I'd rather press in new OEM bushings.
For ball joint release, do you guys reco releasing the pinch bolt at the knuckle, or the taper stud from the LCA?
I ordered new OEM bushings as 20204AG011 and 20204AG030 -- I hope that's correct!!
I really enjoy press work (it's maybe just a machinist thing?) so looking forward to it.
Her gf wanted me to order Mevotech but I'd rather press in new OEM bushings.
For ball joint release, do you guys reco releasing the pinch bolt at the knuckle, or the taper stud from the LCA?
I've got that and the CTA which seems superior.
I'll have to review this procedure because I don't see why I can't remove the castleated nut and press the taper out. I'm not going to actually replace the BJ -- I just need the LCA off the vehicle and in the press.
I completed the job tonight of replacing SJ Forester front LCA bushings. I will say it's mostly a PITA. The TL;DR is that if you don't have a ball joint press, hydraulic press, O/A torch and a lathe, I'd skip this job.
You don't have large lands on either the control arm itself or the bushing shell, so your press cups need to be very close to size.
I wound up making a receiver cup for the front bushing and a press cup for the rear bushing.
Pressing out the first front bushing I 100% fubared my BJP1. The threads are completely locked up. I hope SnapOn handles this. Seems the 2967 is a bit much for it.
Fortunately I was able to switch to my Icon BJP1 clone and on the next front bushing I preloaded it and then heated with the blue wrench, which made all the difference in the world.
A couple of the new bushings:
Once the bushings were out I generously cleaned the ID of the arms, going so far as to run around lightly with my M12 belt file. Then thorough scrubbing with sandpaper then lots of grease for reassembly.
They go back in relatively easily in a 3T arbor press
For the rear bushing I had to turn 2-3/8" pipe down to about 2.345" This will catch the thin shell of the bushing to press it out without getting wedged in the bore itself
The rear bushings definitely have a specific indexing. TBH the fronts might as well as they have a split in their design, but they're really just round and if the split was meant to go a certain way, I failed to note this.
You don't have large lands on either the control arm itself or the bushing shell, so your press cups need to be very close to size.
I wound up making a receiver cup for the front bushing and a press cup for the rear bushing.
Pressing out the first front bushing I 100% fubared my BJP1. The threads are completely locked up. I hope SnapOn handles this. Seems the 2967 is a bit much for it.
Fortunately I was able to switch to my Icon BJP1 clone and on the next front bushing I preloaded it and then heated with the blue wrench, which made all the difference in the world.
A couple of the new bushings:
Once the bushings were out I generously cleaned the ID of the arms, going so far as to run around lightly with my M12 belt file. Then thorough scrubbing with sandpaper then lots of grease for reassembly.
For the rear bushing I had to turn 2-3/8" pipe down to about 2.345" This will catch the thin shell of the bushing to press it out without getting wedged in the bore itself
The rear bushings definitely have a specific indexing. TBH the fronts might as well as they have a split in their design, but they're really just round and if the split was meant to go a certain way, I failed to note this.
I used a 1/2” dr, 1” SAE impact socket to press in the front bushing. Agree on needing to use adapters and cups that are exact size.
Subaru doesn’t provide specific guidance but I think bushing replacement should only be performed once. The rear bushing on mine pressed in way too loosely for my taste. If it was replaced again, I would be concerned about the bushing moving out of the arm during driving.
Interesting. All the bushings took a good bit of muscle with my arbor press to get them back in.
However I agree the rear bushing is weird. Specifically the shell is so thin it doesn't really hold shape and the interrupted rubber seems to shove it around. I measured the rear bushing from 1.330 to 1.378", so it's effectively an oval until you shove it into the round bore of the CA
I didn't have any problem getting the rear bushing to start. Fortunately the heavy chamfer provides good lead-in.
Also, is the front bushing supposed to be indexed a certain way?
Just called SnapOn about my roasted BJP1. They didn't even ask about proof of purchase and are just sending me a new frame and forcing screw. I bought it off my local driver for cash and I don't believe I ever got a receipt, not that it matters fortunately.
Again, I seized it on the front bushing with a 2967. So, if the bushing doesn't move, preload and heat the arm with the blue wrench. This is what I did on the second arm after learning my lesson.
Once again amazed at Snappy customer service. And good on them because Icon is nipping at their heels so the higher price tag should (and does) come with excellent support.
Again, I seized it on the front bushing with a 2967. So, if the bushing doesn't move, preload and heat the arm with the blue wrench. This is what I did on the second arm after learning my lesson.
Once again amazed at Snappy customer service. And good on them because Icon is nipping at their heels so the higher price tag should (and does) come with excellent support.
the bushing is supposed to be with the one pointed up part upwards (towards the sky)
and the bushing "gaps"are supposed to line up with the other corner bolt hole or bushing...
I saw it somewhere when I was considering doing this job for the 2013 outback.
maybe MR subaru?
edit: its in the video that @slacktide_bitog posted in earlier in this thread.
and the bushing "gaps"are supposed to line up with the other corner bolt hole or bushing...
I saw it somewhere when I was considering doing this job for the 2013 outback.
maybe MR subaru?
edit: its in the video that @slacktide_bitog posted in earlier in this thread.
That's the rear. Yeah, I just traced it on the arm w a silver Sharpie. And there's two "dots" that go down.
But the front bushing is just round, more like a leaf spring eye bushing. It has two internal splits that are probably supposed to be vertical based upon looking at the rear of a '15 CRV on my lift. But obviously a CRV is very different from a Forester.
