2001 Lincoln Continental - $5000 repair estimate in front suspension & steering - reasonable?

[Tachyon]

First and foremost, I understand your concerns and predicament. Owning a car is as much about the emotional connection as it is about its utilitarian value. Given the wealth of information you’ve provided, let's break this down logically and decisively.

1. Current Car’s Situation:
From the numbers provided, the maintenance costs of your 2001 Lincoln are approaching or exceeding its current market value. While it's been a cost-effective ride until now, pouring $6,300 or potentially $9,000+ into a vehicle of that age may not give you the long-term peace of mind you're seeking. Remember, even with those repairs, other unforeseen issues might arise due to its age.

2. Alternatives in the Market:
It's evident that the used car market isn't what it used to be. But this is where we need to think in terms of investment rather than cost. If you're aiming for a hassle-free car for the next 5-10 years, investing in a newer vehicle might be the smarter choice. Plus, newer models are generally more fuel-efficient and have updated safety features, which can be a significant advantage as we age.

3. Emotional Factor:
I get it; there’s an attachment to those V8 sedans. The roar, the feel, the drive – it's unmatched. However, comfort and peace of mind are also crucial. The RAV4, CR-V, and Mazda CX3 might not have the V8 growl, but they're renowned for their reliability, and their ride quality is commendable. A newer vehicle in this category might just be the hassle-free experience you're looking for.

4. Financial Consideration:
Being a cash buyer puts you in a strong position. While you could direct those funds into repairing your current car, it might be more beneficial in the long run to use them as a down payment on a newer, reliable vehicle.

5. Trust Factor with Repair Shops:
It’s concerning that your long-time mechanic didn't get back to you. Trust is paramount. Even if you proceed with the repairs, who's to say another issue won’t pop up, and then there’s the question of trust in the repair work. With a newer car, you’d have warranty coverage and likely fewer worries about maintenance for a while.

6. Legacy from Previous Damage:
Accidents, even if they appear minor, can have long-lasting impacts on a vehicle's structural and mechanical integrity. There's a potential that the accident with the previous owners has contributed to the current issues.

In Conclusion:
Given your age and the desire for a hassle-free experience, my strong recommendation is to invest in a newer vehicle. While the heart yearns for the Panther, perhaps it's time for a fresh start. The initial cost might be higher, but the peace of mind, safety, and potentially fewer maintenance issues in the coming years would be well worth it. Sometimes, moving forward means letting go of the past, even if it's a beloved V8 sedan. Best of luck in whatever you decide!

 

[69GTX]

First and foremost, I understand your concerns and predicament. Owning a car is as much about the emotional connection as it is about its utilitarian value. Given the wealth of information you’ve provided, let's break this down logically and decisively.

1. Current Car’s Situation:
From the numbers provided, the maintenance costs of your 2001 Lincoln are approaching or exceeding its current market value. While it's been a cost-effective ride until now, pouring $6,300 or potentially $9,000+ into a vehicle of that age may not give you the long-term peace of mind you're seeking. Remember, even with those repairs, other unforeseen issues might arise due to its age.

2. Alternatives in the Market:
It's evident that the used car market isn't what it used to be. But this is where we need to think in terms of investment rather than cost. If you're aiming for a hassle-free car for the next 5-10 years, investing in a newer vehicle might be the smarter choice. Plus, newer models are generally more fuel-efficient and have updated safety features, which can be a significant advantage as we age.

3. Emotional Factor:
I get it; there’s an attachment to those V8 sedans. The roar, the feel, the drive – it's unmatched. However, comfort and peace of mind are also crucial. The RAV4, CR-V, and Mazda CX3 might not have the V8 growl, but they're renowned for their reliability, and their ride quality is commendable. A newer vehicle in this category might just be the hassle-free experience you're looking for.

4. Financial Consideration:
Being a cash buyer puts you in a strong position. While you could direct those funds into repairing your current car, it might be more beneficial in the long run to use them as a down payment on a newer, reliable vehicle.

5. Trust Factor with Repair Shops:
It’s concerning that your long-time mechanic didn't get back to you. Trust is paramount. Even if you proceed with the repairs, who's to say another issue won’t pop up, and then there’s the question of trust in the repair work. With a newer car, you’d have warranty coverage and likely fewer worries about maintenance for a while.

6. Legacy from Previous Damage:
Accidents, even if they appear minor, can have long-lasting impacts on a vehicle's structural and mechanical integrity. There's a potential that the accident with the previous owners has contributed to the current issues.

In Conclusion:
Given your age and the desire for a hassle-free experience, my strong recommendation is to invest in a newer vehicle. While the heart yearns for the Panther, perhaps it's time for a fresh start. The initial cost might be higher, but the peace of mind, safety, and potentially fewer maintenance issues in the coming years would be well worth it. Sometimes, moving forward means letting go of the past, even if it's a beloved V8 sedan. Best of luck in whatever you decide!

I pretty much agree with all these points. Very well stated. A new car dissolves a lot of the worries. Trust in those getting repairs done certainly has eroded the past 3-5 yrs whether it's finding skilled mechanics or shops just finding the time to fit people in. It's not working well today in any case.

I don't have an emotional attachment to the LIncolns, it's more a "I know what I have and how to deal with it" mentality built up over 20 yrs. More a trust factor. The new cars are a blind spot to me being a Low Tech guy.......overly sophisticated electronics, automatic transmissions with "too many gears," instrument panel "do-dads" that I will NEVER use and are prone to failing. I consider the Nav Guidance systems to be more a nuisance where you can be tracked by big brother.....and have your car turned off on command. Would not want a CVT, Turbo, EV, and probably not even a hybrid. On a lot of these cars you can't even change the transmission fluid w/o going through hoops. My insurance premiums would probably about triple from the the current $1150/yr to $3000/yr. With a brand new car I would probably spend the first couple of years obsessing over every new mark in the paint that occurs.......as well as the much higher potential for theft, scavenging parts and break ins. There is lots of peace of mind with a relatively inexpensive 2001-2011 Vehicle as no one will bother touching it. It's not worth their time and effort. The thieves want new cats and new parts.

In reading a number of consumer reports on RAV4, CR-V's and other recommended models, not everyone agrees they are good riding cars, comfortable, enjoyable, etc. I was sort of surprised at how many negative reports are filed on the most popular and reliable Toyota's, Honda's, and Subaru's. Didn't check Mazda's though. It's a big leap of faith for me. For starters I'm going to need to visit a number of dealers and take some test runs....get used to them.

 

[The Critic]

The Meinke Mgr was emphatic that he only used the best parts "like Moog"....which FoMoCo considers to be equivalent factory parts.

Might want to google the part #'s on that estimate. Looks like they use Advanced Auto Parts/Carquest - they're sourcing Carquest brakes, Dorman suspension parts and CarQuest axles. With the exception of the brakes, these are parts that a used car dealer would install onto a car being prepped for sale.

 

[Soft Cars]

69GTX

Which part of Connecticut you reside?

 

[69GTX]

Might want to google the part #'s on that estimate. Looks like they use Advanced Auto Parts/Carquest - they're sourcing Carquest brakes, Dorman suspension parts and CarQuest axles. With the exception of the brakes, these are parts that a used car dealer would install onto a car being prepped for sale.

I looked most of them up but could only find about half the part numbers correlated. And a single Moog part (sway bar link kit). But what you said is true. And Michaelluscher also posted accurate and lower pricing for these suspension and ride parts.

​

 

[69GTX]

69GTX

Which part of Connecticut you reside?

South East CT.....shoreline..... I-95 near Connecticut River Bridge. I'm pretty close to All Pro Automotive in Old Lyme. I've never done work with them before other than emissions testing. Their prices seemed "high" in the past. But they have a well set up shop, very clean, and well attended....on par with the major dealerships around this area. Maybe I should give them a holler....nothing to lose. One of my neighbors is a senior mechanic there.

 

[CharBaby]

That is a beautiful Lincoln indeed!
When I like a vehicle regardless of its age, sometimes putting money into the vehicle, even if it cost more than the vehicle is worth can be very satisfying. I did try to do most of the work myself but if I did have to have a shop do some work, I would get the lowest price. It's still cheaper than buying another vehicle. Especially knowing that you get to keep your ride in as good of shape physically as it is cosmetically and drive it for a loooooong time.

 

[Soft Cars]

South East CT.....shoreline..... I-95 near Connecticut River Bridge. I'm pretty close to All Pro Automotive in Old Lyme. I've never done work with them before other than emissions testing. Their prices seemed "high" in the past. But they have a well set up shop, very clean, and well attended....on par with the major dealerships around this area. Maybe I should give them a holler....nothing to lose. One of my neighbors is a senior mechanic there.

There's a place called Roggi's Auto Service that looks interesting. Non-corporate, family business.

Roggi’s Auto Service
278 Hudson Street
Hartford, CT 06106
Phone: 860-431-3366
Alt. Phone: 860-200-3480

 

[97prizm]

About 6 weeks ago I took my 2001 Lincoln to Meineke to have Rear Brakes rotor and pads done for the first time (69K miles). A couple weeks later the rear brake was generating a ton of black "dust" on the alloy wheel. I take it back in and they told me the E-brake was dragging on the rotor....and they adjusted back to normal at no cost. Another couple of weeks go by and I notice the same dust returning and that "hot" smell of burning metal. They check it out and this time blame it on a stuck right rear caliper. They can't get the pins unfrozen. I would note that on the original brake work they told me that pins of both sides were stuck or sticking.....but they were able to free them up at that time.

As long as the car was up in the air I had them check the front suspension as I've been hearing some knocking over rough roads. Well, they came up with a litany of issues....basically requiring replacing everything up front as doing it all "just once" would be cheaper than going back in multiple times. I did see the bad items which included a long crack up the right "plastic" A arm, a torn boot on the right wheel bearing/trans-axle, wobbly right wheel bearing, worn out ball joints, twisted sway bar links and beat up bushings. About the only thing not recommended were the front struts. Front brake rotors and pads were done about 3 yrs earlier (20K miles) and they said those were bad as well. Car is probably only worth $6K if everything mechanical was in good shape. I've been looking for a replacement car with much lower miles and then getting rid of this one. But, that's not working out so well.

Ride control is $3400
Front wheel bearings and seals $866
CV axles - $746
Front brakes - $515

The stuck right rear caliper will run another $820. If I eventually need other calipers this could run up to +$3300 total........or about $9000 if 4 calipers are eventually needed. And that's not even considering any future problems with heating and cooling, exhaust, emissions, electronics, windows and seats, AC, PS, etc. Fortunately, all those systems have been good.

Does $6300 seem "reasonable" for just the things called out right now? The shop stated that they only use "FoMoCo" approved parts such as Moog. They won't put "lesser" quality parts on the car. As I ponder all this, the new front rear brakes are getting eaten up....potentially another $500. New tires are due within the year ($600). Fortunately engine and trans on this have been excellent so far. I do all the fluid changes.

Got the car 5 years ago for $4000 with 39,000 miles from the original owners - elderly couple. So it's been pretty cost-effective....until now. Been closely watching the Northeast for used Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Panther platforms with low miles. So far nothing close to me. I don't want to jump on another one of these at 65K miles and find out it too needs a bunch of money into ride/suspension/brakes. So I'm more focused on cars under 40K miles. Have also been looking at new or nearly new RAV4's, CR-V's in the $25K to $35K range.
.
Never been a new car guy. Would still rather be into a real nice used Panther platform at $8K-$12K. But, this isn't the same used or new car market of 5 yrs ago. It's all changed. Since I know my car fairly well after owning 3 of these FWD 4.6L the past 20 yrs....maybe the simplest thing is fixing it and starting fresh again? At least I'll know where I stand. Yet, can I trust a shop to do good work where I won't be back in a couple years due to poor installation or parts? I also ran this invoice by my long time mechanic who I haven't needed to see since the Pandemic. He wouldn't even get back to me on it. His front desk says he is scheduled out 3-6 months or something. Yes, the market is not 2018 anymore. Good used cars are hard to find. And you have to figure most people have scrimped on the maintenance as well. New cars are expensive and still have issues. I'd be a cash buyer of whatever I do get.

I'm 70 yo next year and can't crawl around these cars like I used to. A problem-free car for the next 5-10 yrs (I do 6K-8K mpy) would be a plus. I do love the ride on these big V8 sedans. Everything still works on this car which is surprising. Other than brakes, filters, and fluids most everything is still factory original. A little rust popped up in the lower rockers and front rear wheel lips last year. I was sort of devasted with that - a $2K estimate to replace rockers and repaint at a body shop. I did my own home repairs for now to at least remove the bad rust, anti-rust treated the other metal, applied a 2 part epoxy sealer with f/g tape, then touch up painted. Keeps the mice out. The car was in a light accident with the orig owners where one side got damage on driver's door, rocker, upper pillar....even mis-aligned the hood height by 1 mm or so. So it's no cream-puff. The paint from that repair is still doing ok. Have to wonder if that accident could have affected the longevity of those front suspension parts? Car tracks straight - always has. Was a great car UNTIL this year. Was planning on a 16 qt trans fluid flush on my own this summer....now might not do it. Been 20K miles since the last one.

Fix it? Sell it and get another Panther? Get a 2020-2023 RAV4, CR-V, Mazda CX3, or similar?

View attachment 176611

Run very far Away! I wouldn't trust Meineke on anything. I had the exact same thing happen to my neon recently. The first place wanted $1068 for rear drum replacement. I shopped around. My e brake cable stretched causing my shoes to drag . I'd be looking for a small indy repair or ford specialist.

 

[69GTX]

After spending 6 weeks staring at the very high prices of good used cars and new cars (RAV4, CR-V, Forrestors, etc) I decided to go with repairing the car after I got an estimate of "under $2000" from a reputable repair shop only 1/2 mile from me....they also do state emissions testing. So the total came to $2343. In my mind I wanted to stay under $2500-$2800.....half of what Meineke was "selling." Pretty worn down by the whole ordeal.....wanted it to end.....satisfactorily. In looking at nearly every used Lincoln in my area the past 2 months that was similar to mine in mileage and condition....everyone was at $6K to $10K. Not saying they will get that. And who knows what ride and suspension those cars would need. So mine is now done and I've probably taken the car's value from $2000 to $5000....or something like that. Now looking to get another 3-4 yrs out of the car (20K-25K miles) to spread these costs out. And I'll continue to keep my eyes open for another very low mileage Lincoln or Grand Marquis should one show up at the right price.

The actual suspension parts and labor repairs were $1709. ($1085 in parts). The rear caliper and hose added another $326 (included full brake inspection with measurements, brake flush and new fluid). 2 wheel alignment added another $120.

These parts that Meineke declared "bad" were checked off as good at this shop: front brakes and rotors (30K miles on them), all control arms, all ball joints, left CV axle, and right wheel bearing. So that was a good savings there.

We ended up doing both front strut assemblies, upper and lower tie rod ends, right CV axle (torn boot), sway bar links (one was vertically cracked), rear caliper and hose. Fortunately, that rubbing caliper didn't kill that brand new rotor. The car's brake fluid was at least 6 yrs old, if not the factory fluid....so I didn't have a problem with that getting done. 2 wheel alignment was a bit expensive but it's there and was needed. It takes a week to just get an appointment these days. And then another several days to order the parts and do the work. I have no more worries about the front end handing or ride....a load off my mind. When the shop mechanic first went over things with me they said they were expecting a massive mess based on my "Meineke" description. They actually felt the car was pretty clean and safe, far better than most of the 20 yr old cars that come in. The struts might have been good for years longer....and probably so. But, we decided while taking things fully apart, maybe just best to do them too. I was following one used Lincoln dealer who often had struts and other suspension parts replaced on those 1998-2011 Lincolns within the first 55K-85K miles....so maybe not a bad idea. Shop gave a 2 year warranty on all the "Premium" parts.

So how does it drive? Frankly, the only positive difference I can feel is the road grip and tracking. It tracks and grips the road somewhat like my '99 Camaro SS. It takes effort to turn the steering wheel now. But, it also seems to ride more like a sporty car now as I feel almost every little bump in the road.....where I didn't before. Maybe that's due to the suspension being so tight and unforgiving when brand new? My old suspension had a lot more slop and give in it. I can still hear some clunks and rattles when driving slowly over a bumpy road. And even on smooth roads the car seems to not fully absorb the slight disturbances in the road. I discussed it all with the shop manager. He didn't think I should be hearing any clunks or rattles now. We'll see how it feels (and sounds) after a month of driving. Maybe it breaks in a bit and takes that edge off? First drives are always the worst. In a few weeks I might not even notice the stiffer ride? Though every time I get in the Camaro....I'm reminded of what a stiff supension / sporty ride feels like.

 

[ford46guy]

After spending 6 weeks staring at the very high prices of good used cars and new cars (RAV4, CR-V, Forrestors, etc) I decided to go with repairing the car after I got an estimate of "under $2000" from a reputable repair shop only 1/2 mile from me....they also do state emissions testing. So the total came to $2343. In my mind I wanted to stay under $2500-$2800.....half of what Meineke was "selling." Pretty worn down by the whole ordeal.....wanted it to end.....satisfactorily. In looking at nearly every used Lincoln in my area the past 2 months that was similar to mine in mileage and condition....everyone was at $6K to $10K. Not saying they will get that. And who knows what ride and suspension those cars would need. So mine is now done and I've probably taken the car's value from $2000 to $5000....or something like that. Now looking to get another 3-4 yrs out of the car (20K-25K miles) to spread these costs out. And I'll continue to keep my eyes open for another very low mileage Lincoln or Grand Marquis should one show up at the right price.

The actual suspension parts and labor repairs were $1709. ($1085 in parts). The rear caliper and hose added another $326 (included full brake inspection with measurements, brake flush and new fluid). 2 wheel alignment added another $120.

These parts that Meineke declared "bad" were checked off as good at this shop: front brakes and rotors (30K miles on them), all control arms, all ball joints, left CV axle, and right wheel bearing. So that was a good savings there.

We ended up doing both front strut assemblies, upper and lower tie rod ends, right CV axle (torn boot), sway bar links (one was vertically cracked), rear caliper and hose. Fortunately, that rubbing caliper didn't kill that brand new rotor. The car's brake fluid was at least 6 yrs old, if not the factory fluid....so I didn't have a problem with that getting done. 2 wheel alignment was a bit expensive but it's there and was needed. It takes a week to just get an appointment these days. And then another several days to order the parts and do the work. I have no more worries about the front end handing or ride....a load off my mind. When the shop mechanic first went over things with me they said they were expecting a massive mess based on my "Meineke" description. They actually felt the car was pretty clean and safe, far better than most of the 20 yr old cars that come in. The struts might have been good for years longer....and probably so. But, we decided while taking things fully apart, maybe just best to do them too. I was following one used Lincoln dealer who often had struts and other suspension parts replaced on those 1998-2011 Lincolns within the first 55K-85K miles....so maybe not a bad idea. Shop gave a 2 year warranty on all the "Premium" parts.

So how does it drive? Frankly, the only positive difference I can feel is the road grip and tracking. It tracks and grips the road somewhat like my '99 Camaro SS. It takes effort to turn the steering wheel now. But, it also seems to ride more like a sporty car now as I feel almost every little bump in the road.....where I didn't before. Maybe that's due to the suspension being so tight and unforgiving when brand new? My old suspension had a lot more slop and give in it. I can still hear some clunks and rattles when driving slowly over a bumpy road. And even on smooth roads the car seems to not fully absorb the slight disturbances in the road. I discussed it all with the shop manager. He didn't think I should be hearing any clunks or rattles now. We'll see how it feels (and sounds) after a month of driving. Maybe it breaks in a bit and takes that edge off? First drives are always the worst. In a few weeks I might not even notice the stiffer ride? Though every time I get in the Camaro....I'm reminded of what a stiff supension / sporty ride feels like.

Struts on that car can be a nightmare. The strut sits in an Aluminum cradle, and the bolts are impossible to remove. They earned their money. The 95-96 had front air shocks. That sounds like a very fair price

 

[The Critic]

So how does it drive? Frankly, the only positive difference I can feel is the road grip and tracking. It tracks and grips the road somewhat like my '99 Camaro SS. It takes effort to turn the steering wheel now. But, it also seems to ride more like a sporty car now as I feel almost every little bump in the road.....where I didn't before. Maybe that's due to the suspension being so tight and unforgiving when brand new? My old suspension had a lot more slop and give in it. I can still hear some clunks and rattles when driving slowly over a bumpy road. And even on smooth roads the car seems to not fully absorb the slight disturbances in the road. I discussed it all with the shop manager. He didn't think I should be hearing any clunks or rattles now. We'll see how it feels (and sounds) after a month of driving. Maybe it breaks in a bit and takes that edge off? First drives are always the worst. In a few weeks I might not even notice the stiffer ride? Though every time I get in the Camaro....I'm reminded of what a stiff supension / sporty ride feels like.

Aftermarket front-end parts - they never ride identical to original. Usually stiffer.

 

[macarose]

Glad to hear you didn't fall into the debt trap. Keep the car until EVs become cheap.

That's going to take a while.

 

[69GTX]

Aftermarket front-end parts - they never ride identical to original. Usually stiffer.

Well, after another month of driving the car it is quite obvious to both me and my wife that the suspension is quite different than it used to be. Even the slightest gradation change in a nicely paved 45 mph secondary road is transmitted up into the front seat. For the most part I feel pretty much constant jolting up and down and side to side. Sort of like being in a carnival ride. A slight nuisance....sometimes annoying. It's not going to "break in" over time. Suppose, I'll eventually get used to it. I think the car also lost a little bit of control in tight, curving highway on or off ramps. I used to be hang in strong at 50-55 mph in those curves w/o wandering at all.......that control doesn't feel nearly as strong now. Maybe only handling 45-50 mph. Before I never felt any looseness in the car taking such a fast turn. Now it feels like the car might slip out from under me at higher speeds.

But, I will still take it back to the repair shop for a look over and ask some questions. I'm perfectly attuned to the ride of these cars as they're all I've driven for the past 22 yrs and 380,000 miles.

 

[dishdude]

Well, after another month of driving the car it is quite obvious to both me and my wife that the suspension is quite different than it used to be. Even the slightest gradation change in a nicely paved 45 mph secondary road is transmitted up into the front seat. For the most part I feel pretty much constant jolting up and down and side to side. Sort of like being in a carnival ride. A slight nuisance....sometimes annoying. It's not going to "break in" over time. Suppose, I'll eventually get used to it. I think the car also lost a little bit of control in tight, curving highway on or off ramps. I used to be hang in strong at 50-55 mph in those curves w/o wandering at all.......that control doesn't feel nearly as strong now. Maybe only handling 45-50 mph. Before I never felt any looseness in the car taking such a fast turn. Now it feels like the car might slip out from under me at higher speeds.

But, I will still take it back to the repair shop for a look over and ask some questions. I'm perfectly attuned to the ride of these cars as they're all I've driven for the past 22 yrs and 380,000 miles.

@The Critic is spot on in post #72 about aftermarket struts. Unfortunately there isn't anything the shop will be able to do except replace with OE.

 

[69GTX]

@The Critic is spot on in post #72 about aftermarket struts. Unfortunately there isn't anything the shop will be able to do except replace with OE.

I agree.....can't do anything about it. Though I wish I had the discussion with them that Aftermarket struts could give a far worse ride than the OEM's. It wasn't ever discussed. Nor did I imagine it could be that much different.

 

[JHZR2]

$820 for one rear calliper, can someone price a genuine rear calliper? I bet it’s max half of this and labour shouldn’t be more than like $100

Agree. That caught my eye more than most other stuff. Suspension work can be expensive, especially if a lot of rubber parts and non-available stuff has to be used.

Still high. I thought those minekee type places were pretty low labor rates… though I’m sure they charge OE dealer prices for low end junk parts.