Best oil to free collapsed/sticky lifter?

[Pontual]

But most of the times, best way doesn't work.

 

[SnowDrifter]

Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
This is where I stopped reading.

Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Maybe a PAO oil that will allow for a little bit of seal shrinkage to get it moving again?


Originally Posted By: Phishin
I'd just use some HDEO along with 1 to 1.5 quarts of Marvel's Mystery Oil (MMO) added to the crankcase. I've had good experiences with this.



Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
This is where I stopped reading.

Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Maybe a PAO oil that will allow for a little bit of seal shrinkage to get it moving again?

Yeah that one is off the scale for ridiculous, there are no seals in a lifter, all steel and/or iron...

And this one is just as bad, valves aren't going to burn because they're maybe moving .100" less than normal... AND if it were burned, no miracle in a can will fix it...

Originally Posted By: anndel
Maybe a burned valve due to the low oil. Try Lucas oil additive or maybe a Seafoam treatment.


This is what happens when I try to do something WAY past when I normally go to bed. For some reason I had valve stem seals in my mind's eye when I typed this LOL

Anyways... Did an oil change with some Rotella T6 and MMO, let it warm up, held the engine between 3500 and 4000 RPM and it worked itself back out. Engine purrs like a kitten again

Not going to bother checking oil pressure until I get a 30 grade oil back in there

Thanks all!

 

[Merkava_4]

Try a different viscosity.

- If you're ticking with thin oil, try a thick oil.
- If you're ticking with thick oil, try a thin oil.

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Try a different viscosity.

- If you're ticking with thin oil, try a thick oil.
- If you're ticking with thick oil, try a thin oil.


Wake up, he dun fixed it...

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
This is where I stopped reading.

Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Maybe a PAO oil that will allow for a little bit of seal shrinkage to get it moving again?


Originally Posted By: Phishin
I'd just use some HDEO along with 1 to 1.5 quarts of Marvel's Mystery Oil (MMO) added to the crankcase. I've had good experiences with this.



Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
This is where I stopped reading.

Originally Posted By: SnowDrifter
Maybe a PAO oil that will allow for a little bit of seal shrinkage to get it moving again?

Yeah that one is off the scale for ridiculous, there are no seals in a lifter, all steel and/or iron...

And this one is just as bad, valves aren't going to burn because they're maybe moving .100" less than normal... AND if it were burned, no miracle in a can will fix it...

Originally Posted By: anndel
Maybe a burned valve due to the low oil. Try Lucas oil additive or maybe a Seafoam treatment.


This is what happens when I try to do something WAY past when I normally go to bed. For some reason I had valve stem seals in my mind's eye when I typed this LOL

Anyways... Did an oil change with some Rotella T6 and MMO, let it warm up, held the engine between 3500 and 4000 RPM and it worked itself back out. Engine purrs like a kitten again

Not going to bother checking oil pressure until I get a 30 grade oil back in there

Thanks all!


It might have stopped ticking because the engine was to temperature?

 

[KCJeep]

Originally Posted By: Phishin
I'd just use some HDEO along with 1 to 1.5 quarts of Marvel's Mystery Oil (MMO) added to the crankcase. I've had good experiences with this.



This would be my suggestion and I would add 1) time and 2) some Italian tune ups sustained 3500 rpm plus for short bursts when fully warmed up.

I have used B12 in mine no complaints it clearly did some cleaning also a great suggestion.