Am looking and thinking of buying a 96 shortblock 4.0 thats in Good shape, putting that along with Custom 92 7120 head bolted to it into my 2000 Desert Sand Cherokee, and running that while I Build its own 2000 engine over a year or so.
BEST oil for 1994 Jeep XJ Cherokee
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Originally Posted By: TXCarGeek
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Originally Posted By: TXCarGeek
Why not PU 5W-30?
The HTHS viscosity is closer to what I prefer for the 4.0 at 3.3. The 5w30 is lower as it should be.
I'm going to pick your brain a little: why 3.3?
And has GC been shown to shear any in the 4.0?
I actually shoot for 3.4 to 3.5 for my 4.0, which is the top end of 30 grade. That's why I'd pick the Ultra 10w30 because it is pretty close at 3.3, and being such a shear resistant full syn it would probably be thicker than a dino that started at 3.5 by the end of the OCI anyway.
German Castrol is 3.5 and very, very shear resistant one of the benefits of a true full synthetic. I've never seen a GC UOA where it was out of grade or even close to it at even 10k unless it had been subjected to severe fuel or coolant contamination. Nothing will stand up to that kind of abuse.
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Originally Posted By: TXCarGeek
Why not PU 5W-30?
The HTHS viscosity is closer to what I prefer for the 4.0 at 3.3. The 5w30 is lower as it should be.
I'm going to pick your brain a little: why 3.3?
And has GC been shown to shear any in the 4.0?
I actually shoot for 3.4 to 3.5 for my 4.0, which is the top end of 30 grade. That's why I'd pick the Ultra 10w30 because it is pretty close at 3.3, and being such a shear resistant full syn it would probably be thicker than a dino that started at 3.5 by the end of the OCI anyway.
German Castrol is 3.5 and very, very shear resistant one of the benefits of a true full synthetic. I've never seen a GC UOA where it was out of grade or even close to it at even 10k unless it had been subjected to severe fuel or coolant contamination. Nothing will stand up to that kind of abuse.
KC, If I had that 04 4.0, I would have Her filled with GC. Too Good a motor for Scientific research. Unless others use the research for their 4.0s. Should be a Law, only GC or better, no Revs above 4200, and at least 30min run time each time run for ALL 4.0s
Originally Posted By: 84zmyfavorite
KC, If I had that 04 4.0, I would have Her filled with GC. Too Good a motor for Scientific research. Unless others use the research for their 4.0s. Should be a Law, only GC or better, no Revs above 4200, and at least 30min run time each time run for ALL 4.0s
We think alike, my next fill actually will be GC due to AAP's fairly recent BOGO sale. I rarely get to 3k either, maybe once a week on a highway on ramp. Take a 4.0 past 3k IMO you're not gaining anything you're just flogging it for no reason.
I am curious to see if the GC makes any dent on the sludge and coking other oils have barely touched in 30k.
KC, If I had that 04 4.0, I would have Her filled with GC. Too Good a motor for Scientific research. Unless others use the research for their 4.0s. Should be a Law, only GC or better, no Revs above 4200, and at least 30min run time each time run for ALL 4.0s
We think alike, my next fill actually will be GC due to AAP's fairly recent BOGO sale. I rarely get to 3k either, maybe once a week on a highway on ramp. Take a 4.0 past 3k IMO you're not gaining anything you're just flogging it for no reason.
I am curious to see if the GC makes any dent on the sludge and coking other oils have barely touched in 30k.
Originally Posted By: 94JeepCherokee
At any rate, I'm fairly sure I'm going to have high iron content in my engine with any oil in a UOA. There has been metal particles attached to the end of my dipstick for as long as I can remember. That is why I've been wanting to rebuild it for so long.
Although that doesn't sound good, it could be normal. Try one of the suggested non-M1 oils for 5000 miles with a good filter and see what the UOA tells you.
At any rate, I'm fairly sure I'm going to have high iron content in my engine with any oil in a UOA. There has been metal particles attached to the end of my dipstick for as long as I can remember. That is why I've been wanting to rebuild it for so long.
Although that doesn't sound good, it could be normal. Try one of the suggested non-M1 oils for 5000 miles with a good filter and see what the UOA tells you.
I Feel power being made in all my 4.0s up until around 4200RPM, though I dont keep them there for more than 2 or 3 seconds. My 2001 SilverStone Metallic Cherokees 65,??? mile 4.0 has the Most power, and I feel it until right befor 5000RPM, but I just ont like doing that. My 99s Built(Heavily ported 0630 head,.020milled) 4.0 with 141,568miles Loves to go to 4200RPM, Freely or Easily I would say, but power drops after that.
Ha ha I can't even really imagine those kind of rpm's with my 4.0 and I'm not gonna find out either!
If you dump the clutch going from 2nd(at Roughly 4200RPM, what I believe to be end of her powerband)to 3rd(right at 64-65MPH with her 3.07s and 31"BFGs) my White 96 Cherokees 250,518 mile 4.0 is then put into the mid-beginning or early stage of her powerband(3000RPM), which is a powerful time in a 4.0, right when peak torque, the Highest amount(200-230ftLbs) is peaking and "maintaining" until around 4200RPM, I believe. Yes, torque is really good from 1800RPM and up, personally I think its great from 500RPM and up, and if you want good Fuel economy, 3000RPM and lower is advisable, but I havent seen much harm from a occasional jaunt to 420, i mean 4200RPM. I say much above that isnt good, or productive really.
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Catching up as I've been off the grid for a bit with a new job.
While I know the 10W30/40 advice is sound, I don't think 5W30 should be discounted in this engine design. I've had good luck running 5W30 grpIII SOPUS syns in my Jeep engines, specifically the 2.5L in my trail Jeep. It serves as trail rig and tractor at home and adds new meaning to "severe service". The UOA's have been nearly equal to the single digit wear numbers of 10W40 and Delo SAE30.
I'm currently just about ready to change the oil (after it's two year interval) and will install 5W30 once again. I may try Nextgen Maxlife 5W30 (a syn blend) this time around.
My current buggy project will probably have a 2.5L as well and with the planned build, I may run a 0W20 for optimum power.
While I know the 10W30/40 advice is sound, I don't think 5W30 should be discounted in this engine design. I've had good luck running 5W30 grpIII SOPUS syns in my Jeep engines, specifically the 2.5L in my trail Jeep. It serves as trail rig and tractor at home and adds new meaning to "severe service". The UOA's have been nearly equal to the single digit wear numbers of 10W40 and Delo SAE30.
I'm currently just about ready to change the oil (after it's two year interval) and will install 5W30 once again. I may try Nextgen Maxlife 5W30 (a syn blend) this time around.
My current buggy project will probably have a 2.5L as well and with the planned build, I may run a 0W20 for optimum power.
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Catching up as I've been off the grid for a bit with a new job.
While I know the 10W30/40 advice is sound, I don't think 5W30 should be discounted in this engine design. I've had good luck running 5W30 grpIII SOPUS syns in my Jeep engines, specifically the 2.5L in my trail Jeep. It serves as trail rig and tractor at home and adds new meaning to "severe service". The UOA's have been nearly equal to the single digit wear numbers of 10W40 and Delo SAE30.
I'm currently just about ready to change the oil (after it's two year interval) and will install 5W30 once again. I may try Nextgen Maxlife 5W30 (a syn blend) this time around.
My current buggy project will probably have a 2.5L as well and with the planned build, I may run a 0W20 for optimum power.
2.5's bulletproof...
Catching up as I've been off the grid for a bit with a new job.
While I know the 10W30/40 advice is sound, I don't think 5W30 should be discounted in this engine design. I've had good luck running 5W30 grpIII SOPUS syns in my Jeep engines, specifically the 2.5L in my trail Jeep. It serves as trail rig and tractor at home and adds new meaning to "severe service". The UOA's have been nearly equal to the single digit wear numbers of 10W40 and Delo SAE30.
I'm currently just about ready to change the oil (after it's two year interval) and will install 5W30 once again. I may try Nextgen Maxlife 5W30 (a syn blend) this time around.
My current buggy project will probably have a 2.5L as well and with the planned build, I may run a 0W20 for optimum power.
2.5's bulletproof...
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My 96 4.0s dipstick had copper colered metal particles on when I bough Her in summer 2007 with ariound 243,??? miles. Since driven Her Hard, though only at 250,688 niles, but no more copper with QuakerState HD30 or Rotella T1 HD 30. My 99s ReBuilt 4.0 had Iron looking Metal particles in oil on Dipstick, but She was being Broken In. Now with around 1700miles Shes definately WornIn, and I dont see those metal particles anymore,.well hopefully. Should and have been meaning to do a UOA, on her current close to 600 mile fill of SuperTech 10w-40.
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Catching up as I've been off the grid for a bit with a new job.
While I know the 10W30/40 advice is sound, I don't think 5W30 should be discounted in this engine design. I've had good luck running 5W30 grpIII SOPUS syns in my Jeep engines, specifically the 2.5L in my trail Jeep. It serves as trail rig and tractor at home and adds new meaning to "severe service". The UOA's have been nearly equal to the single digit wear numbers of 10W40 and Delo SAE30.
I'm currently just about ready to change the oil (after it's two year interval) and will install 5W30 once again. I may try Nextgen Maxlife 5W30 (a syn blend) this time around.
My current buggy project will probably have a 2.5L as well and with the planned build, I may run a 0W20 for optimum power.
Catching up as I've been off the grid for a bit with a new job.
While I know the 10W30/40 advice is sound, I don't think 5W30 should be discounted in this engine design. I've had good luck running 5W30 grpIII SOPUS syns in my Jeep engines, specifically the 2.5L in my trail Jeep. It serves as trail rig and tractor at home and adds new meaning to "severe service". The UOA's have been nearly equal to the single digit wear numbers of 10W40 and Delo SAE30.
I'm currently just about ready to change the oil (after it's two year interval) and will install 5W30 once again. I may try Nextgen Maxlife 5W30 (a syn blend) this time around.
My current buggy project will probably have a 2.5L as well and with the planned build, I may run a 0W20 for optimum power.
Nice. Should make some optimum Power,.for little while! Aw, I know those 2.5 are maby even tougher than the 4.0, even first(1987)nad 2nd(1988) Year 4.0s! My Red/Black 1984 Cherokee Chiefs 2.5 is one of the toughest engines Ive Flogged, right along with my other 1984 Brown Cherokee Pioneers GM2.8V6. Yep thats Right, the GM2.8V6!
I Did Blow a 1985 Cherokees 2.5 back in early 2002 though, which I just remembered, that had 5w-30, proabably more like Sheared 5w-25 or less). Since then Ive always been a fan and had Good Luck with a bit Thicker Motor oils for these engines, I guess mostly if Driven Hard. But htey are such OlSchool design, that the thicker Oils just seem Right,.ya Know?
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Fix the leaking "oil filter adaptor" (?) and forgo the stop-leak.
Use any of the oil/filter combos and OCI's you have used successfully in the past. The concept that a different brand or weight is going to provide some MEASUREABLE effect on a '95 4.0 with 217K is somewhat unlikely: your gas mileage is really very good. The color of the oil is irrelevant, IMHO.
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Cheers!
Use any of the oil/filter combos and OCI's you have used successfully in the past. The concept that a different brand or weight is going to provide some MEASUREABLE effect on a '95 4.0 with 217K is somewhat unlikely: your gas mileage is really very good. The color of the oil is irrelevant, IMHO.
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Cheers!
TORX60, or T60 is what you will need to get that oil filter adaptor off, FELPRO O rings are less that $2. The Jeep 4.0, regardless from 1st year 1987 to last year 2006, does respond differently to different motor oils put in their crankcase. From factory to maby 100,000 miles, Yes a 5w-30 Might be Alright, depending on climate, but I bet that 4.0 run with 5w-30 will have more wear than one run with 10w-30. If only I could go back in time, Win the Lotto, and buy around 10 Last Year 2001 Jeep Cherokees, some Auto, some NV3550 5 speed manual, and fill them all with different Motor oils, trannsmission oil, gear oil, etc and research the performance and wear differances. 13 Cherokees,.. have to Stash 3 away. Crazy Wet Dreams again...
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It's a lot to think about. I think I might run the Pennz for the next OCI, and I haven't found T6 in a 5W-30 or 10W-30 yet.
If you have Walmart they stock T5 in 10w30 but they don't make T6 in anything other than 5w40 that I know of. But it works well being a "thinnish" 40 grade.
I'd also like to stick with a 5W-30, because it's going to be friggin' cold loooooong before my next OCI, which will probably be in March lol. I might go Pennz Ultra, then. I'll take the M1 hi-mile back to Wal-Mart and pick up some PU.
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