Best engines

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In terms of UOA even over long OCIs, I'd say our Toyota and Saab (ecotec) are about equal.

In terms of true longevity, nothing can beat the MB OM 616/617 family of engines.
 
I agree a poor (and/or expensive/hard to replace chain) is no better or even worse than a good belt. I'm talking about a good chain design that last about the life of the engine, which several do, is more reliability and a more reliable engine IMO. There are some timing belt application that don't last long, expensive and difficult to replace as well.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Both systems have their pros and cons. Chain drives are only superior if they never need service. Nearly all timing belts are less expensive and easier to replace than a timing chain. On a number of Nissan engines, timing chain issues are not uncommon and I would much rather replace a timing belt than a timing chain on a Nissan V6.


No, this isn't supposed to be chain snappers vs. timing belts. Nobody is suggesting that the chain snapping engines are reliable. The reliable ones will last the life of the engine.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
In terms of true longevity, nothing can beat the MB OM 616/617 family of engines.


True enough. But there is no reason why any reasonably-maintained VW 1.9-liter TDI engine cannot go 750k miles or more. It seems hydrolocking is the only thing that will kill them, and then replacing the bent rods should still be easier than swapping in a used engine.
 
Originally Posted By: Powerglide
A Datsun/Nissan L Series six is considered "broken in" at around 150,000 miles. Very often these motors will run 250,000+ miles and can be LIGHTLY honed, re-ringed and run another 250,000 miles without an overbore. The blocks are HARD. The straight six has virtually no side load wear issues. The RINGS wear. The blocks do not. Can't comment from a used oil analysis prespective though. I never bothered to do it.

On my 76 280Z...the head came off at 150K for a freshening. The cross hatch pattern in the bores was clearly visible---having been done at the factory in 1975. FWIW.



Same experience here with the 510 and its little 1600 four. Virtually the same engine as the 240Z, with pistons, rods, timing chain/gears, oil pump, etc. being identical to the 2400cc six banger.

Had one 510 wagon overheat so bad we had to stall it to shut it down (woman driver). Pulled the head off, over 180,000 miles and virtually no ridge in the cylinders, original crosshatch still visible, etc. Did a valve job on it and put it right back together. This in a car with a 4.56 gear and no overdrive. ALWAYS wound out tight!
 
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Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Originally Posted By: calvin1
I'll get flamed for this for sure but here goes ... any engine that has a belt as one of it's critical components gets a "yer doin' it wrong" from me. If an engine is durable only if I disassemble half the engine bay every 80-100k then I don't see the point. That's a pretty big exception when other engines last just as long minus this "feature". Oh yeah, and driving the water pump off that same belt? Whaaaat?


Yeah I never could understand how Japanese engines requiring a timing belt (or engine destruction will follow) and probably a water pump, tensioner, and balancer shaft belt replacement and valve adjustments got such a pass and were considered most reliable.

Toyota's 4AFE-7AFE engines stay intact even if/when the timing belt evaporates.No damage to the engine.Please do not distribute this false 'information'.
 
What matters if the engine is a freewheeling design? When the belt breaks it still won't run and needs the cam drive replaced. False information
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? I never said that engine wasn't a freewheeling engine. I was talking about the many others that are not that get a free pass.
 
Originally Posted By: Geo_Prizm
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Toyota's 4AFE-7AFE engines stay intact even if/when the timing belt evaporates.No damage to the engine.Please do not distribute this false 'information'.


This comes down to the simple interference vs non-interference design question. If it's a non-interference design, the timing belt can break without much in the way of consequences, except for inconvenience for the driver. If it's an interference design, wherein the valves and pistons attempt to occupy the same space at the same time, after the breakage of a timing belt, well, that's whole different story (as in colossal engine self-destruction).

It all depends upon which type of engine you're talking about.
 
My personal favorites were:

Toyota 4.7l V8
Nissan 3.0 VQ30 series

I liked both of these due not only to their longevity and low maintenance, but they were both smooth, strong and quiet.

As for the timing belt issue, I prefer a chain but replacing a timing belt is not that hard or expensive if the engine and chassis are designed well. The only timing belts I would not do myself are in FWD minivans (sienna) and the Audi A4 that required major disassembly.
 
Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Originally Posted By: Geo_Prizm
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Toyota's 4AFE-7AFE engines stay intact even if/when the timing belt evaporates.No damage to the engine.Please do not distribute this false 'information'.


This comes down to the simple interference vs non-interference design question. If it's a non-interference design, the timing belt can break without much in the way of consequences, except for inconvenience for the driver. If it's an interference design, wherein the valves and pistons attempt to occupy the same space at the same time, after the breakage of a timing belt, well, that's whole different story (as in colossal engine self-destruction).

It all depends upon which type of engine you're talking about.


This is why I have an ej22 in my '86 Subaru. Yes it's a timing belt motor, but it is the last year for a non-interference motor. So it will last forever and if a belt breaks it will be a minor inconvenience instead of catastrophic failure.
 
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