Best dino oil for 10K OCI on hard-driving Miata?

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Hi, are there any dino oils that can handle a 10K OCI in a Miata that doesn't have short trips but get revved pretty hard on a regular basis. I'm talking 7K RPMs. Also, I live in central Texas where it gets very hot.

Or should I play it safe and use something like Mobil 1's 15K extended yada oil?

FWIW, this is a 2001 model with only 30K on the clock.

Thanks!!
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You might want to go 5k get a uoa and then determine what interval to use. Check the uoa section and read a few, pick an oil and have at it. Even if you know very little about oil you can do as good a job that way as someone bumping your thread.
 
Well, Dino oil would be pretty amazing to go 10k with hard driving. I agree with the others that synthetic would be your best bet for that kind of usage. If you insist on a dino oil for a long OCI then probably go with Castrol GTX. Best of luck.
 
I guess I'll go with a syn. oil then. With the debates about some dino being better than some synth, I thought the dinos have gotten really good, but seems not.
 
Synthetic Amsoil, Royal Purple, Schaeffer or Redline is the way to go. If you still insist on using a dino, at least you should add a maintenance dose of www.auto-rx.com or Lube Control( www.lubecontrol.com ). By the way, these two additives will make any oil perform better.
 
How about Schaeffer's? It's a blend, but it's extremely cost-effective and has proven the ability to go that far in some applications (with oil analysis), even w/o LubeControl.

Alternatively, some dinos with LC have shown to go that far, IIRC.
 
I personally prefer Syn lubes and use Redline and Mobil 1 products. I would not recommend a conventional oil for the type of use you are going to see - not that regular oils cannot handle it, I just doubt they can handle a 10k oil change interval. Since your topic mentioned reg. oil, maybe you can compromise and use a semi-synthetic like Motorcraft, Trop Artic or Mobil Clean 7500 and instead of going 10k go between 6-8k on the oil. Or you could go Redline Grp 5 synthetic and go 15k - just some ideas to ponder....
 
I have no brand affiliations here, just to disclaim. I would suggest probably MaxLife if you want to push a dino oil , but I wouldnt recomend it for 10K 7-8K possibly. If you want the 10K, try GC, Amsoil or one of Schaeffers fine oils! For your engine and driving style, I wouldnt push the regular dinos "havoline, MC, etc" further than 5k maximum. It's a risky tango with oxidation and varnish buildup around the rings.
 
An example is Mobil Clean 7500, a Blend that claims 7500 miles of performance. Asking 10k from a dino is borderline Trolling.
 
To answer you basic question I would not push any group I or II oil for 10K. Especially since you are revving the motor to 7k rpm... that constitutes severe service in my book.

You should use a high quality Group IV synthetic for that kind of a run. An Amsoil or Redline are your best choices. Over the counter German Castrol 0w-30 maybe an option too. It is high on the viscosity scale for a 30 weight which is good for the heat of Texas.

Maybe someone else can recommend a specific grade for the Amsoil or Redline.
 
You might try one of the more respected dinos here, combined with Lube Control, but do a UOA at 5k.

I'd do that no matter what if pushing to 10k, but I'd put it off to 7500 with a synthetic.
 
Actually, I have no special love for dino oil, or a desperate need to save money. The main goal is to have a long OCI since my filter is a b**** to get to and remove. About every time I'm due for an oil change, I come back to this forum to see what's the latest and greatest, and it seems every time I checked, the dino oils get better and better reviews. So I thought maybe I should see if some dino oil has gotten good enough for my desired OCI. Perhaps in another year or two.
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Just tossing out an idea: what if I leave my pain-in-the-____ filter for the full 10K miles and change the oil with a 5K OCI. That OCI would be overkill for a synthetic, probably, but would 2 changes of a good dino at 5K be better than a single change of synth. at 10K?

The costs would be the same, perhaps, but I would think 2 dino changes would be better for the engine vs. one long change with synth. Agree?
 
Here's some data to digest -

I read where one fleet mgr whose fleet ran almost strictly HW ran dino to 30k no problems (I don't remember anything about him having bypass filters, but can't remember for sure).

During the '90s I worked at a place about 45 miles from Little Rock (FDA research facility called NCTR - National Ctr for Toxicological Research) - bunch of scientist types. Everyone's puttin tons of miles on their cars (albeit mostly HW) - one day at lunch we talk car oil - I'm using Amsoil w/ 1 yr OCI (right at about 25k). The others are dino - one guy chgs his oil twice a year. One chges his "every November", and one guy chges when he thinks about it, and he's says he doesn't think about it much. All of them have Japanese cars - I believe one was approaching 200k and the other two were past 200k - No oil problems! No smoke! The guys said their cars were running like tops. And that was with (circa) 1995 Dino.
 
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