Air cooled engine oil? Synthetic vs dino?

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Originally Posted by Kawiguy454
In that heat and Air Cooled ...M1 15-50 and its load of anti wear additives wont hurt either. Been using that in ALL my stuff since forever. Never lost an engine.

Have you ever taken a reading with a infra red on the oil filter to see what the operating temp is? I'm real curious. Thanks for the input
 
Originally Posted by Jmoney7269
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by Jmoney7269
This is why you run a 0w-30 over a 10w-30.....
All oils are too thick at ambient temp to protect well, but the thinner it is at startup, the better to prevent engine wear associated with startup...

Sure, here in Wisconsin in the winter. But the difference beteeen those two in Texas isn't going to be significant.

The chart you posted - where did you get that data?

From this website, BITOG



Well that chart is not worth a hill of beans.
 
Originally Posted by Jmoney7269
Originally Posted by kschachn
The chart you posted - where did you get that data?

From this website, BITOG

Can you link to where you saw it?
 
Originally Posted by Jmoney7269
ANYONE READ THIS ARTICLE?
This is one of the best if not the best oil viscosity/vs engine needs of oil I have ever read...... it hasn't steered me wrong yet.
I believe bitog has a similar article, but this one is a goodin......
https://www.minimania.com/Motor_Oils_-_It_Is_So_Very_Misunderstood


That's the A.E. Haas articles posted here: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ .... There's also some updated (2016) chapters floating around and numerous threads discussing it's merits.
 
Originally Posted by doitmyself
That's the A.E. Haas articles posted here: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ .... There's also some updated (2016) chapters floating around and numerous threads discussing it's merits.

Ahha, I see. Well I have no idea where those numbers came from for that chart. The graph I posted shows that there isn't hardly any difference at all until it gets quite cold. Even then, down to 0F it isn't anywhere near 60%.
 
Great graphic kschachn.

Hope you have a good Thanksgiving tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
I have used M1 10-30 in my OPE (generator, riding mower, and power washer) for at least 25 years. I have never had an engine with any sort of oil related problem.
 
Originally Posted by tig1
I have used M1 10-30 in my OPE (generator, riding mower, and power washer) for at least 25 years. I have never had an engine with any sort of oil related problem.

So wouldnt a 0w-30 be moe betta?
As far as cold start is concerned since they are the same thickness when hot?
 
You would benefit your knowledge best by forgetting everything you read in the linked articles, and starting over from good sources. Hopefully it hasn't been in your head for a long time because that will make it harder to forget/reject.

What are the oil requirements for both engines?
 
Originally Posted by Jmoney7269
Well I beg to differ........ a 0w-30 oil is 60% thinner at ambient than a 10w-30. If a majority of the engine wear happens at startup, then one would want the oil that has the best pump ability until it gets to operating temperature.
Plus my generator fires up and runs 3600 rpm straight from cold and is hit with a load 20 seconds later...... I see nothing but benefits running a 0w-30 over a 10w-30 if its 60% thinner at startup therefore nullifying how a 10w-anything is better in Texas

And even if it is thinner at startup, it will flow just as quickly still
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted by Jmoney7269
So wouldnt a 0w-30 be moe betta?
As far as cold start is concerned since they are the same thickness when hot?

Did you look at the graph I posted? It depends on temperature, not until you are below 0F.

There are other considerations as well, not just the W rating. In addition not all 0W oils are the same in terms of properties.
 
Originally Posted by Jmoney7269
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by Jmoney7269
This is why you run a 0w-30 over a 10w-30.....
All oils are too thick at ambient temp to protect well, but the thinner it is at startup, the better to prevent engine wear associated with startup...

Sure, here in Wisconsin in the winter. But the difference beteeen those two in Texas isn't going to be significant.

The chart you posted - where did you get that data?

From this website, BITOG

Because you read something on BiTOG it doesn't mean it is fact.
 
syn vs Conventional oil. If convention oils made engines last longer wouldn't it make sense that all the over the road semi trucks with their $50,000.00 engines would all run syn oils? I run 5w-40 in my tractor because of the winter cold and I don't plug the tractor I use it to push the snow off the road. Otherwise I would use a 15w-40.
 
Makes alot of sense honestley.... a buddy of mine has a Ford f150 v-6 and has over 400k miles on it.....
He has never ran anything but shell rotella t, now t4
 
I always advise using syn in an air cooled engine simply because they run about 20 to 30 degrees hotter than a liquid cooled machine. My Honda 400EX ATV is a air cooled blast furnace, I can't believe they recommend 10W-30 mineral oil in that thing, I run 10W-40 Mobil 1 Racing 4t motorcycle oil in it. It runs anywhere from 220 degrees on a "cool" day to 240 degrees on a hot day at the dunes according to a thermal heat gun a friend has.
 
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