2001 Accord v6 w/ 183k. Oil rec/wreck

DxC

Messages
2
Location
San Diego, CA
Hey all! Been lurking around here for a few days. Awesome, knowledgeable community. Kudos for the great discussions! As a mid 20's dude who entered the workforce a little over a year ago, I try to make the most of my things. And I'm paranoid about my car's engine: - Car's a 2001 Honda Accord EX v6. - Owner's manual says the car takes API certified oil. Prefers 5w20, but that 5w30 will do in a pinch:
Quote:
If 5W-20 oil is not available, a 5W-30 oil may be used. However, it should be replaced with 5W-20 at the next oil change.
- OCI for "normal conditions" is listed @ 7500 miles, "severe conditions" @ 3750 - I live in San Diego. Weather's pretty consistently between 60 and 80 degrees. Recently moved to more hilly area, but it's not too bad. - I tend to drive pretty slow and easy in the past year and a half or so. Used to drive a good amount faster, but never all that hard. - I don't drive every day, and the trips I take are often pretty short with the exception of a ~bimonthly trip to LA, which is about 300 miles. Average mileage/year historically works out to 12,760 miles. - I prefer longer OCI, and have gone primarily synthetic since I've owned the car. - Last time I got an oil change, I was told there were some oil leaks from the pistons(need to confirm location). Other known issues are described below. I got the car back in 2014 @ 131k miles. Records show that it was taking 5w30 for most of its life (with 5w20 near the beginning, when the previous owner changed at the dealer). I bought it in LA and put in Penzoil dino 5w30 before I drove it down to SD. Took it to a Pepboys, as my car experience was limited to shadowing my uncle at his home garage. At ~135 (still 2014), I took it to a local shop to get checked out for a weird brake noise. Turns out it was just oxidized rotors. I got along well with the guy, though, and decided to have my oil changed. Dude was a fast talker, and was well known by local Uber/Lyft drivers and had good online ratings. He convinced me that 20w50 Royal Purple Synthetic was best for my older, worn engine. Said something along the lines of "The stuff your manual says is basically water, I've seen oil under a microscope". My quick google search for "thick oil old car" turned up enough results that I made the snap decision to trust him. This continued for about 3 years/44,000 miles. I'd buy the 20w50 Royal Purple online, take it in, and he'd swap it out, charging for the filter and labor. In total, changes were coming out to $60+ a change (oil + labor) with 7,500 - 8,00 OCI. I was moving every school year at this point, and never brought down my tools or questioned the dude sick. I moved again after I graduated, further south this time. Jan 2018, I took it to a different local shop, where I left the mechanic open-mouthed when I told him the viscosity. He consulted a senior dude, who told him to put in something similarly thick since something thinner might leak (citing evidence of a leak on the motor, as described in the list above). Ended up putting in Dino of same or slightly lower viscosity (I can get details later), which I took because I was in a rush to swap the oil for a longish drive (~400 miles). Fast forward to last weekend @ 183,100 (~4,400 OCI on the dino mentioned above). After freaking myself out and reading some other sites online, I put in Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage 10w30 synthetic with a Bosch filter I'd bought when I first got the car. Reading up here, I'm starting to think it might not have been the best/cheapest choice. I've haven't even put 60 miles on it since the change (so this could all be in my head), but the car seems to warm up faster, stay at a lower temp, accelerate quicker, and maintain a lower RPM at any speed. I haven't been able to find evidence of a leak on the floor under the spots I park. I'm kicking myself for not reading up on things sooner, and taking the guy at face value frown . After the change yesterday, I'm pretty confident I can handle changes myself down the line (I've actually got some tools now). Does my car need saving? If so can/should I save it? What would you guys recommend? Thanks for reading! And help! David
 
Messages
8,029
Location
North Carolina
Best+cheapest choice would be a good synthetic 5W or 10W-30 changed at 7.5k miles, with a Fram Ultra every other oil change. I was in San Diego last week, nice town.
 
Messages
8,384
Location
Champlain/Hudson Valley
The one thing which provides "the sigh of relief" throughout this saga is your warm climate. Never was it cold enough for the slightly thicker 20W- to impede start up flow. You're good, as roofless said. I also agree with greg regarding the specced oil. TANGENTIALLY RELATED ANECDOTE: I had a 1976 Chevrolet Nova with the 250cid straight 6. It likely called for 10W-30. I don't know if 5W-30 was around in '76. I used 20W-50 just to see what would happen. A friend's 1985 Subaru GL (1700cc.) used the 20W-50. My Chevy clacked and ticked upon start up. I gave it 45 seconds; the noise never changed so I removed it. There was no apparent damage. None of that happened with your car so I bet you're machine is OK. ps I sold a friend's '99 "your car" with 125K in 2006. Experiences with it and the OTHER 2 HONDAS WITH EQUALLY BAD TRANSMISSIONS (total of 3 baddies) lead me to respectfully suggest you perform at least a transmission sump drain & fill using Honda's DW-1 fluid.
 
Messages
12,207
Location
OH
What you have in there now is good oil and I would stay with that for a good 7500 miles/1 year. I can't imagine 20w50 in that engine. No wonder you notice better acceleration with the current brew. Last winter I remember pouring in some Valvoline SynPower 20w50 at 10 degrees and couldn't believe how SLOW it was coming out. This was a beater car at a charity car lot that showed no oil on the dipstick. A half qt of that followed by a half qt of MMO(mostly to use it up). Then two qts of Napa 5w30 conventional. The 5w30 poured like water compared to molasses 20w50.
 
Messages
9,073
Location
Marshfield , MA
SS, The OP lives in Sandy Eggo. With a high mile car, 20w50 is OK. 5wXX would be more OK. OP, I applaud your resolve to change your car's oil.
 
Messages
3,647
Location
Worst Case, Ontario
OP's first mechanic is a BITOGer or should join immediately, he would fit in well here. You have just illustrated you can run pretty much anything in that car, you needn't worry. Best first post I have ever seen. welcome welcome welcome
 
Messages
6,237
Location
Kalifornia Kollective
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Best+cheapest choice would be a good synthetic 5W or 10W-30 changed at 7.5k miles, with a Fram Ultra every other oil change. I was in San Diego last week, nice town.
+1 smile You have enough miles (normal wear) that almost any reasonable viscosity will work fine. But your choice is OK. A bit on the $$ side, but it's your choice. Cheaper solution would be Wal-Mart's own house brand - SuperTech 10W-30 and a decent filter every other time. Any API rated oil will be fine. Look for leaks at the valve covers and around any shaft ends. If minor, just carry on. Change in a new factory PCV valve as yours is getting a bit old by now.
 
Messages
30
Location
Indianapolis
Transmission... Drain and fill... Do it now, do it often. Timing belt... Find out when it was last replaced... (Replace if necessary) Oil... That engine will be happy with just about anything.
 
Messages
3,275
Location
On another site
San Diego? 10w30 for sure...no difference at those temps in 5w vs 10w performance - the only place you'd see any difference is at low temps which you're not going to reach. OP, You like longer drains so pick the right oil...the M1 EP 10w30 IMO is a very good choice.
 
Messages
1,182
Location
Berks County/Pa.
Great advice so far, if you plan on keeping the car long term -- like others have mentioned. Drain and refill that Tranny acouple times with appropriate fluid. I personally would go with a cheaper high mileage synthetic like Super Tech HM 5W30 paired with the Fram Ultra changing the filter every other 7500 mile interval also like others have mentioned. Somebody also mentioned the timing belt/water pump and PCV -- ASAP if not taken care of already. In my Acura in signature I have only used Honda Transmission fluid but many many others on this site have had good luck with Valvoline Maxlife Transmission fluid also. Good luck and have a good holiday weekend. Also, would not hurt to throw a bottle of Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner or another similar cleaner with the PEA to clean the fuel system. Just do what the directions say on the bottle and you will be good to go. Dale
 
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DxC

Thread starter
Messages
2
Location
San Diego, CA
Thanks for the tips and relief, everyone! I feel way better. San Diego's come through once again cheers Oil sounds good for now, then! I'll look into other synthetics, though it sounds like "higher mileage" stuff (of which there seem to be cheaper options) would probably be best? I'm getting the feeling I should lean towards the cheapest API certified 5/10w-30 synthetic I can find smile. Bosch Filter sounds to be alright, but sounds like it should be swapped with a Fram Ultra at my next change. Extended drain interval filters sound nice. Timing belt was last changed @ 101k, so it sounds like that needs to be changed in about 15k? PCV will be getting looked at over the weekend! Going to flip through records to see if I find anything, too. Water Pump sounds like it needs an inspection too. Have had one of these die on me in another car, not fun. Transmission sounds like it has some bad genes. @Kira, Wikipedia substantiates your anecdotes - apparently this model was plagued with transmission issues laugh. Will most likely go with Honda fluid and change it next week. Fuel System Cleaner w/ PEA (Chevron Techron) sounds like it could only help. Will pick some up next time I check out the oil sales, thanks @Baja Will wipe off any grime around valve covers + shaft ends and check again in a week or so, thanks @BrocLuno Thanks again for the support and help, all! David
 
Messages
588
Location
Connecticut
Great first posts! I had the same car, same engine, and mine started to leak too. I had been using Mobil Super, so I switched to Super High Mileage and it did slow the consumption but not completely. So for the next OCI I switched to Valvoline Max Life (red bottle, syn blend) and it was much better at slowing/stopping the leaks. So for your next change I would seriously consider a high mileage oil, to swell up the aging rubber gaskets and slow the leaks.
 
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