Axle splines stuck in the knuckle
- Thread starter parshisa
- Start date
What castle nut. Please be clear so we can help you.
Vice grips. Pipe wrench?
6 point box wrench, pipe wrench. Good luck it its stripped may need a nut splitter. Pipe wrench may do it
sawzall new nut
Air hammer, chisel bit.
I dunno if the extractors go that big, and it may be difficult to drive one on there. It's not always necessary to pound them on first, but it helps them with initial bite.
One option
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-torque-tools-bolt-extractor-set/ptt1/ptt0021
Another
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-torque-tools-bolt-extractor-set/ptt1/ptt0020
Here again, I'd probably try to drive the flange around with a chisel bit in an air hammer. Fortunately you probably only need a solid 1/4 turn before it's loose enough for pliers or fingers.
I think this whole project is telling you to buy a little compressor and decent air hammer. If they still offer it the Chief was a tool truck brand with a different name at HF, but I don't know if it's more of a CFM hog. With a small compressor most air hammers may only be good for a few seconds, but just let it recover and repeat.
If you're doing it right three seconds is all you usually need
Don't do that please because, more often than not the torque from the axle nut is to hold the wheel bearing/hub assembly together with the proper preload.
Most if not all service manuals will say not even to put the weight of the vehicle on the hub much less roll it or it will compromise the wheel bearing/hub assembly
Also, how so? Did you only have a deep in 1/2" dr? Looks like plenty of room for a shallow.
Get some flex head XL ratcheting wrenches.
Basically, get some tools so this doesn't happen again. I'm not sure how you boogered this so completely.
And now that I see the spec of 19mm, extractors absolutely go that big as I've done 3/4" lugnuts. But you may fight Z-space, esp without a ratcheting wrench -- you'd need an extractor with a hex bottom to slip a box over it, vs a sq dr anvil into it.
One thing it’s telling me for sure is that my “mechanics” skills are garbage. Probably should stick with the oil changesI dunno if the extractors go that big, and it may be difficult to drive one on there. It's not always necessary to pound them on first, but it helps them with initial bite.
One option
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-torque-tools-bolt-extractor-set/ptt1/ptt0021
Another
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-torque-tools-bolt-extractor-set/ptt1/ptt0020
Here again, I'd probably try to drive the flange around with a chisel bit in an air hammer. Fortunately you probably only need a solid 1/4 turn before it's loose enough for pliers or fingers.
I think this whole project is telling you to buy a little compressor and decent air hammer. If they still offer it the Chief was a tool truck brand with a different name at HF, but I don't know if it's more of a CFM hog. With a small compressor most air hammers may only be good for a few seconds, but just let it recover and repeat.
If you're doing it right three seconds is all you usually need
That also ruins the wheel bearing, the cv axle nut also keeps the bearing races in place.
That looks to have a cotter pin that needs to be removed first?
Picture above just a random one, I wasn’t home at that time. Pin was removed. Would something like this is an option?
Possibly. They work best if you can pound them on and odds of success drop with off-axis force from a lever (vs a concentric spinning force like an impact).
If you can get a pry bar just so to force it down while rotating with a ratchet (edit: wrench or ratcheting wrench), that's your best shot but it may be quite the dance ....
If it bites well it'll dig to China. See:
Post in thread 'What are you working on today?' https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/what-are-you-working-on-today.331303/post-6400095
But the sizing has to be just right to get it to grab, which is why I own at least three different sets.
Don't get down on your mekanik skills, you're doing WAY more than the average human (and honestly way more than most people on this forum who talk a big game but are really keyboard warriors fronting). You're just having some growing pains but learning lessons you won't soon forget.
Thank you for the feedback and kind words. I’ve definitely made some mistakes due to impatience and lack of the right tools.
I suppose ultimately if I can’t get it off, I’ll have to cut ball joint pin (below the arm itself), and replace the whole control arm. Not sure if anyone has done it that way?
Can you get in there with a fine Dremel tool to weaken the nut?
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