I appreciate your advise. However, it appears that despite liberal penetrating oil application, virtually none has gotten on the spline surfaces, just pure virgin rust. Perhaps longer wait time would do the trick
Axle splines stuck in the knuckle
- Thread starter parshisa
- Start date
We've had great debates but even the manufacturers say don't use excessive anti-seize on the splines as it can actually hydraulic and prevent it from fully seating. I imagine grease would be the same. However a thin coat is ok.
I know you already put it back together, but for next time....
I know you already put it back together, but for next time....
I strongly prefer Molykote M77 for splines than any anti-seize product. It is much more effective and wash-out resistant.
Lucky you -- Honda sells the BJ boots by themselves. Part #51225-TZ5-A01
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts...dr_ex_l_2wd-ka_6at/chassis/front_knuckle.html
I didnot read all the posts but my 2 cents... Take a piece of cardboard and punch out the center large enough to Put it over the hub center. using a hammer tap the cardboard so an imprint is made in the card board from all the location of the studs. See where I am going with this find a tool that is correct. Take it to Advance auto parts and get a loaner too that will match the hub. If you have been wailing on this CV axle and its in fact stuck in the hub assembly, Beleve you me, you have started damaging the hub bearings, and if it wasent noisy before, it will be now. They are delicate percision assemblys. I was hit on the aluminum rim in an acident Ruined the rim and the bearing was growling after.
Stop hammering, Tapping is fine. Are you sure the cv axle is not bottoming out and you are hammering on the transmission? Did you get one side out already? This looks awful clean to be stuck this bad. The splines will not be cross threaded.
You seem to know what you are talking about so please forgive me for pointing out what may be obvious. If it was me... I would take out the entire assembly knucke hub strut and axle. then try to get it apart. I am in agreement with the others. I have never done struts on a pilot so forgive me if im wrong but normally its as simple as inbolting the lower part of the strut. Yours may be pressed in I guess. Be prepared to replace this hub assemblt as well. Depending on the milage, I may just opt to replace it while its apart. Check it once apart and see if its loose now or appears noisy Dont get any a cheap bearing OEM, NTN FAG KOYO. Unless you want to do it again in 20000 miles. Ask me how I know... Aftermarket bearings from the locals are crap. Never use a air hammer on the rotor or hub unless ypu are replacing it. Use the push bolt threads on the rotor to get the rotor off if stuck to the hub. Never use a impact wrench to tighten the axle nut. Hand tools only. Torque wrench to the proper torque only. Use a pry bar or a piece of 1/2" pipe to hold the hub with 2 lug nuts turned on 2 of the studs.
Harbor Feirght probably has the tool as well for short money. Autozone also has loaners.
Stop hammering, Tapping is fine. Are you sure the cv axle is not bottoming out and you are hammering on the transmission? Did you get one side out already? This looks awful clean to be stuck this bad. The splines will not be cross threaded.
You seem to know what you are talking about so please forgive me for pointing out what may be obvious. If it was me... I would take out the entire assembly knucke hub strut and axle. then try to get it apart. I am in agreement with the others. I have never done struts on a pilot so forgive me if im wrong but normally its as simple as inbolting the lower part of the strut. Yours may be pressed in I guess. Be prepared to replace this hub assemblt as well. Depending on the milage, I may just opt to replace it while its apart. Check it once apart and see if its loose now or appears noisy Dont get any a cheap bearing OEM, NTN FAG KOYO. Unless you want to do it again in 20000 miles. Ask me how I know... Aftermarket bearings from the locals are crap. Never use a air hammer on the rotor or hub unless ypu are replacing it. Use the push bolt threads on the rotor to get the rotor off if stuck to the hub. Never use a impact wrench to tighten the axle nut. Hand tools only. Torque wrench to the proper torque only. Use a pry bar or a piece of 1/2" pipe to hold the hub with 2 lug nuts turned on 2 of the studs.
Harbor Feirght probably has the tool as well for short money. Autozone also has loaners.
Are you talking strut mount?
On Hondas I have no idea. The strut mount orientation is a big deal on some like KL Cherokees because the strut tower is canted and the strut mount follows that. Doing it incorrectly is like jamming two wedges/inclined planes together at non-mating angles
I don't think the manufacturers of these parts and spark plugs even think about the rust belt when they publish this crap.
Every single time someone ask about anti seize on spark plugs it is inevitable some yoyo is quick to post "NGK does not recommend it",
My answer to that is let the touchhole from NGK who wrote that crap come and get these out. Like the ones with the NGK coating had them break off in the head the guy posted about a couple of months ago.
Ditto CV axle in hub splines, I have used a thin coat of never seize or water proof grease (usually Mobil 1 red) on every single one and never seize on every plug for over 50 years and never had a problem.
Sure I agree. A thin coat no problem. But grab handfuls like a food fight and I could see problems ‐‐ similar concept to displacing a pilot bearing with grease and a dowel
I have an oldschool 3 legged hub puller that has a wrench fitting you hammer on.
Ive taken out actually rusty subaru and bmw cv axles out with it, and those cars have interference fit splines too.
And yes, dont forget to use moly antisieze with a toothbrush on the splines, whoever tells you to not is not paying attention. Make sure to not use any of it on the threads and when tightening the cv nut, the joint and nut threads should be clean and dry and only a small drop of EP gear oil coated on the flange of the nut should be applied to torque it smoothly.
Ive taken out actually rusty subaru and bmw cv axles out with it, and those cars have interference fit splines too.
And yes, dont forget to use moly antisieze with a toothbrush on the splines, whoever tells you to not is not paying attention. Make sure to not use any of it on the threads and when tightening the cv nut, the joint and nut threads should be clean and dry and only a small drop of EP gear oil coated on the flange of the nut should be applied to torque it smoothly.
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This might sound crazy but as a last ditch effort and given that you don't have access to a pneumatic air hammer or air compressor, I might be inclined to threading the axle nut back onto the cv axle while leaving it loose and drive around your neighborhood at a low speed. Maybe the loading and unloading of the torque that's applied to the splines could be enough to get them to break free.
It's just an idea for a desperate moment.
It's just an idea for a desperate moment.
Backing plate rubbing?
How heavy is your hammer? You probably need something that’s 5lbs or bigger.
I applied a generous coat of moly-lithium EP grease to the splines of my axle on the wheel side. I installed a white box Chinesium bearing.
Since I had no anti-seize on hand, I also applied a coating of Super Lube to the knuckle-hub bore. Again, in case I want this hub to come out easy.
Not a moment to be proud of. But yes, it was the plate
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