Axle splines stuck in the knuckle

Took the axle nut off on the left side to compare how far the splines are inside the knuckle, and it looks like my day long efforts on the right side haven’t moved it 1mm
 
Took the axle nut off on the left side to compare how far the splines are inside the knuckle, and it looks like my day long efforts on the right side haven’t moved it 1mm
As shown in my linked thread in Post #26, consider trying the trick with the plastic jar filled with penetrating oil up against the hub. I don't know to what extent it contributed, but think it did.

As well, and also mentioned in that thread, I think it helped to tighten the nut with the impact gun, go back to the puller, and so on, back and forth.

This combination worked for me.

Best of luck to you - persistence is your friend.

P. S. What make and model, and what year is your vehicle?

Edit: The trick with the penetrating oil in the jar was off a Subaru forum. Not my idea.
 
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As shown in my linked thread in Post #26, consider trying the trick with the plastic jar filled with penetrating oil up against the hub. I don't know to what extent it contributed, but think it did.

As well, and also mentioned in that thread, I think it helped to tighten the nut with the impact gun, go back to the puller, and so on, back and forth.

This combination worked for me.

Best of luck to you - persistence is your friend.

P. S. What make and model, and what year is your vehicle?
Thank you for sharing this! I’ve tried a few times with the axle nut on and off to no avail. Waiting for my buddy with a bigger hammer (he’s also 50 lbs or than I am lol). Mine is 2016 Honda Pilot with ~91k
 
Can you share an example of the hammer that I could get that would work with relatively small compressor? I think my buddy has a compressor
For small home compressor I’d take a look at the Ingersoll Rand 114GQC model. Not too expensive but should be powerful enough to get it unstuck. But depends on the size of the compressor will have a lot to do with it.
 
Assuming a hub puller with the correct adapter isn't available a 2 jaw puller is a more universal option which may yield results.
Yep, a drum/rotor puller would likely get ya there.
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With any puller the key is preload, BFH for vibration, repeat
 
Can you put the knuckle back onto the lower ball joint? Some of your efforts may be being lessened by the whole assembly being free like that. Once you get the splines free and moving then you can remove the knuckle from the lower ball joint again.
 
Can you put the knuckle back onto the lower ball joint? Some of your efforts may be being lessened by the whole assembly being free like that. Once you get the splines free and moving then you can remove the knuckle from the lower ball joint again.
I was thinking exactly this. If you're using a BFH manually (as opposed to an air hammer) you're losing most of your force as the knuckle flops around
 
Update: got the file and opened up the ear on the hub removal tool. It did work, took a lot of impacting with the impact, but axle came out. All rusted out. It is amazing that no grease have been applied to splines. Rebuilt the strut with new parts and put it back in. Ran out of gas, tomorrow is another day. I appreciate everyone making suggestion and providing valuable feedback. I’ll keep everyone posted on the progress. Sad part, managed to put a 1/8” long tear on the rubber boot of the LCA ball joint…

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For any future jobs requiring the use of penetrating oil (such as axle shaft splines), I highly recommend Kroil. PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench is ok but Junior Varsity compared to this stuff. I’d often grab the Kroil before the smoke wrench back in my wrenchin’ days.
Just some friendly advice for next time.

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I had this happen over the weekend. Ended up using an air hammer with a flat hammer anvil, with the axle nut installed level to protect the CV joint threads. I would have had a bad day if I needed to buy a Chinesium axle(better than Cardon’t but meh). Kroil helped slightly.

Oh, and it was my first time using a scuba tank to drive pneumatic tools. Rigged up an old, no longer supported Scubapro first stage regulator with a 200psi relief valve in case the HP seat failed, and a scuba 3/8” UNF to automotive 1/4” NPT adapter. There was 142psi at 100+ CFM being thrown at my neighbor’s poor air hammer. I need to add a 1/4” ARO-style regulator to this.
 
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