I've done that a few times over the years with my air hammer and this: Rotor/hub remover Mine is made by Mayhew, it gets the job done with my Thor Air Hammer and a little penetrating oil.
2016 Dodge Grand Caravan - front brake rotor rusted on
- Thread starter Number_35
- Start date
@Number_35 Is there a set screw?
No, unfortunately.
Astro sells a puller. Load it up then hit it with an air hammer. I prefer to vibrate at the WMS. Perhaps not good for the wb but you're vibrating right AT the rust bond.
Be sure to loosely install a lugnut or two!
Or as mentioned, O/A heat at the WMS then air hammer at the WMS, then BFH from behind to drive it off. Rinse and repeat.
Again, be sure to loosely install a lugnut or two
Be sure to loosely install a lugnut or two!
Or as mentioned, O/A heat at the WMS then air hammer at the WMS, then BFH from behind to drive it off. Rinse and repeat.
Again, be sure to loosely install a lugnut or two
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Blasting an air hammer on the face of the hat, between and around the lug studs will do it if you have a powerful enough air hammer/chisel. Short of that, the rotor will cut like butter with a quality sawzall blade or you can use a grinder wheel to cut a slot to open things up.
If the fronts are that stuck, which is common on Grand Caravans of this vintage, the rears are going to be bad as well. The front bearing hubs and CV shaft splines are probably very stuck in place as well.
If the fronts are that stuck, which is common on Grand Caravans of this vintage, the rears are going to be bad as well. The front bearing hubs and CV shaft splines are probably very stuck in place as well.
I'll try to remember. Not much to see yet, just a very rusty hub and rotor.
It has to pass a safety inspection to be sold for other than scrap value.
It would not pass with brakes and rotors as-is.
I tried the trick with bolts through the caliper-bracket holes on the knuckle.
I had only carriage bolts on hand, so could not tighten them with an impact wrench. Had to use a 9/16" wrench on the square flanges under the dome-shaped head.
Nothing yet, but I hope leaving it under tension for a day or so will help.
I might borrow the OTC tool from PartSource.
I had only carriage bolts on hand, so could not tighten them with an impact wrench. Had to use a 9/16" wrench on the square flanges under the dome-shaped head.
Nothing yet, but I hope leaving it under tension for a day or so will help.
I might borrow the OTC tool from PartSource.
I wish I was closer, I'd be there helping you right now @Number_35 .
Thanks so much! We'll get it, one way or another. (And there will be the other three ...)
If you have steel toe shoes, kick it 
Spray all around the hub and studs with this stuff. Let it sit a few hours. Autozone has it.
Joking or not, this works.
That is rusty and even the rear tail gate edge is corroded. I read atf + acetone is another penetrating oil alternative.
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The van has done mostly highway miles, so it's very possible the brakes are original and even more likely the rotors have never been off.
The problem is getting the penetrating oil in to where it needs to be to work. With the one stud out, we have tried to spray a lot into that area.
On Japanese rotors there are two threaded holes on the rotor hat that accept threaded bolts that allow penetrating oil and exert force on the hub face.
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