2016 Fusion rear brake job

Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
3,001
Location
NYC
On the driveway was placed a good friends 2016 Fusion 2.0 EB Titanium AWD, call it 60k on the clock

Guard green over grey leather, 🪒 💯👍 looking car

Got A/C seats, and a sunroof, it's a quick and comfortable cruiser

However, it needed rear brakes, badly, was down to the backing plate

My friend tried, but couldn't get the rotor off the hub, so he deferred to me, I've never done one of these but it didn't seem too difficult

My first time dealing with EPB, and it was a non issue, I much prefer it to brittle rusty and crusty parking brake cables or shoe in hat design

Oh, have the 19.5mm socket, because Ford still can't make a lug nut to save their lives

Lifting this car is tricky, I think I need to order a pinch weld adapter for the jack, because there's really no good place to lift

You'll need a 7mm Allen, a 15mm for the caliper bracket, an M10x1.5 bolt as a forcing screw if rotors are equipped

The lube was silicone paste on the pins, and Silaramic on everything else, because that's all Advance had on a Saturday AM, I don't think it'll be too bad

For reference, this car is a '16 with 60k, and these aren't even the factory rotors and pads, they've been changed at least once before

I guess the AWD and Torque vectoring/Advancetrac really leans on rear brakes to keep this show on the road?
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The rotors are the Motorcraft service line coated, the pads are Motorcraft

He didn't like the feel or longevity of the previous aftermarket job, so he spent the money here

It would've been nice to do some bleeding, maybe get the dial gauge out to match mount and check runout, but the time wasn't there, and he's most satisfied with how it all came out

I went heavy with the anti seize on the hub because for some reason, these new rotors didn't have provisions for the forcing screw, hopefully it'll pay off down the road

Now when you do the onboard song and dance to put the EPB into maintenance mode, it works beautifully

Unlike older Ford's, you don't need to turn the piston in, you just compress with the Lisle tool as illustrated

And it's true, they slide right in no problem

Until you go to put it together, and it won't clear the new thicker rotors and pads

Apparently when you let it get this bad, you've gotta wind them back maybe a half turn to gain the clearance you'll need, luckily I've got the tool set for Project Milan's rear brakes, made quick work of it

So yeah, you may still need to wind back the piston just a touch to fit the caliper over

Exercised the EPB a few times, it self adjusts beautifully, picking up the slack

Pedal feel is good, got the ABS kicking in once or twice, checked the fluid level, torqued the lugs, sent it on its way

Arrival to departure was 3 hours, the more attentive and less rusty will probably do better

10/10 would do again
 
Joined
Mar 12, 2015
Messages
18,362
Location
In the shop
On the driveway was placed a good friends 2016 Fusion 2.0 EB Titanium AWD, call it 60k on the clock

Guard green over grey leather, 🪒 💯👍 looking car

Got A/C seats, and a sunroof, it's a quick and comfortable cruiser

However, it needed rear brakes, badly, was down to the backing plate

My friend tried, but couldn't get the rotor off the hub, so he deferred to me, I've never done one of these but it didn't seem too difficult

My first time dealing with EPB, and it was a non issue, I much prefer it to brittle rusty and crusty parking brake cables or shoe in hat design

Oh, have the 19.5mm socket, because Ford still can't make a lug nut to save their lives

Lifting this car is tricky, I think I need to order a pinch weld adapter for the jack, because there's really no good place to lift

You'll need a 7mm Allen, a 15mm for the caliper bracket, an M10x1.5 bolt as a forcing screw if rotors are equipped

The lube was silicone paste on the pins, and Silaramic on everything else, because that's all Advance had on a Saturday AM, I don't think it'll be too bad

For reference, this car is a '16 with 60k, and these aren't even the factory rotors and pads, they've been changed at least once before

I guess the AWD and Torque vectoring/Advancetrac really leans on rear brakes to keep this show on the road?
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The rotors are the Motorcraft service line coated, the pads are Motorcraft

He didn't like the feel or longevity of the previous aftermarket job, so he spent the money here

It would've been nice to do some bleeding, maybe get the dial gauge out to match mount and check runout, but the time wasn't there, and he's most satisfied with how it all came out

I went heavy with the anti seize on the hub because for some reason, these new rotors didn't have provisions for the forcing screw, hopefully it'll pay off down the road

Now when you do the onboard song and dance to put the EPB into maintenance mode, it works beautifully

Unlike older Ford's, you don't need to turn the piston in, you just compress with the Lisle tool as illustrated

And it's true, they slide right in no problem

Until you go to put it together, and it won't clear the new thicker rotors and pads

Apparently when you let it get this bad, you've gotta wind them back maybe a half turn to gain the clearance you'll need, luckily I've got the tool set for Project Milan's rear brakes, made quick work of it

So yeah, you may still need to wind back the piston just a touch to fit the caliper over

Exercised the EPB a few times, it self adjusts beautifully, picking up the slack

Pedal feel is good, got the ABS kicking in once or twice, checked the fluid level, torqued the lugs, sent it on its way

Arrival to departure was 3 hours, the more attentive and less rusty will probably do better

10/10 would do again
Nice write up and photos and info. IMO, I’m not a fan of electric parking brakes; had troubles at work with them especially when vehicle battery was to die. That’s just me. I have some short and long jumper leads for making the e brake piston push back in.

Thank You sir 🥃🇺🇸
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
573
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
Nice work! Pretty amazing that someone could bang through a set of pads on the Fusion so quickly. I had a 2014, used it as a rep car in Houston Texas so tons and tons of heavy traffic driving. Changed the pads at 95,000 and they were half worn, rotors were true and had plenty of life left in them. Still have that dang lisle tool, 3 years after selling that car.
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
16,312
Location
Santa Barbara, CA
I had to do the rear pads and rotors on my mom's 2014 Fusion Titanium 2.0EB Titanium last year. It was really easy. The longest part of the job was me finding a caliper piston tool since I am used to needing the turn in style or 4 pot caliper style.

One nice thing on these is the PTU has a drain plug so servicing them is really easy.
 
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Joined
Mar 21, 2004
Messages
26,545
Location
Upstate NY
I think too much lube on the SS clips. The grease can attract dirt and cause problems. I just put just a little on the pad ears

I have been using spray Muscle Grease on the hubs. I like it better than anti-seize.
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2002
Messages
8,321
Location
MI
I think too much lube on the SS clips. The grease can attract dirt and cause problems. I just put just a little on the pad ears

I have been using spray Muscle Grease on the hubs. I like it better than anti-seize.
Agreed on too much grease. I use a paper thin layer of paste lube to keep rust off rotor hats, hubs, and caliper parts.
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Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
25,161
Location
CA
That is way too much grease. The pads will likely wear at a taper once dirt builds up. I see this a lot on rear pads when people decide to use an excessive amount of grease on the clips.
 

michaelluscher

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Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
3,001
Location
NYC
The old pads (what was left of them) were bound up by rust, not grease or dirt

And there's no hardware, it's pad to bracket, only lube in between

The one time use bolts are a surprise to me, leave it to Ford :confused:

Excessive lube is duly noted, I'll cut back on it next time around, however I'm not calling it back for a do over

The rotors will be rusted out again before anything else comes of the grease

This is the first car I've seen that's on its second set of pads/rotors in 6y/60k

My experience with brakes and things sticking/binding has always been lack of lubricant, because NYC cars splash through a lot of salty water half the year

I'll cut back on the next one
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2004
Messages
26,545
Location
Upstate NY
The old pads (what was left of them) were bound up by rust, not grease or dirt

And there's no hardware, it's pad to bracket, only lube in between

The one time use bolts are a surprise to me, leave it to Ford :confused:

Excessive lube is duly noted, I'll cut back on it next time around, however I'm not calling it back for a do over

The rotors will be rusted out again before anything else comes of the grease

This is the first car I've seen that's on its second set of pads/rotors in 6y/60k

My experience with brakes and things sticking/binding has always been lack of lubricant, because NYC cars splash through a lot of salty water half the year

I'll cut back on the next one
Did old pads have SS clips in the caliper bracket? The pads should be powder coated meta backing plate if high quality. Maybe some filed the old pad ears for fit?
 

michaelluscher

Thread starter
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
3,001
Location
NYC
Did old pads have SS clips in the caliper bracket? The pads should be powder coated meta backing plate if high quality. Maybe some filed the old pad ears for fit?
There is no hardware in this application

The pads were Motorcraft OEM, they had what looked like a good powder coat or very tough paint job on the entire backing plate

Interestingly, it also had peel and stick pads on the back as a shim

Why would they want the pad sticking to the piston and caliper?
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2004
Messages
26,545
Location
Upstate NY
There is no hardware in this application

The pads were Motorcraft OEM, they had what looked like a good powder coat or very tough paint job on the entire backing plate

Interestingly, it also had peel and stick pads on the back as a shim

Why would they want the pad sticking to the piston and caliper?
No SS clips? I though any modern car would have had SS clips. If you had time I would have painted the area on caliper bracket where the pad ears slide on.
 
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Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
25,161
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No SS clips? I though any modern car would have had SS clips. If you had time I would have painted the area on caliper bracket where the pad ears slide on.
A lot of euro design calipers do not have them.

Painting the caliper brackets adds thickness. Pads may not slide properly.
 
Joined
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Messages
7,993
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Roanoke Virginia
Nice job. Yes I will agree with others too much grease. However not too much on the hub even here in the south we see stuck rotors and it sucks.

I’m getting ready to replace the original brakes on my moms car 2017 Camry with 27,000 on it. They have 3mm left and 2/32 is the limit in my state for inspection so they have to be replaced and I’m going to do it before they tear up the rotor. Hopefully I won’t have any issues doing that. She does all stop and go to work so that’s probably why they wore out like that because my dad was surprised they didn’t make it to at least 30,000.
 
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