On the driveway was placed a good friends 2016 Fusion 2.0 EB Titanium AWD, call it 60k on the clock
Guard green over grey leather,
looking car
Got A/C seats, and a sunroof, it's a quick and comfortable cruiser
However, it needed rear brakes, badly, was down to the backing plate
My friend tried, but couldn't get the rotor off the hub, so he deferred to me, I've never done one of these but it didn't seem too difficult
My first time dealing with EPB, and it was a non issue, I much prefer it to brittle rusty and crusty parking brake cables or shoe in hat design
Oh, have the 19.5mm socket, because Ford still can't make a lug nut to save their lives
Lifting this car is tricky, I think I need to order a pinch weld adapter for the jack, because there's really no good place to lift
You'll need a 7mm Allen, a 15mm for the caliper bracket, an M10x1.5 bolt as a forcing screw if rotors are equipped
The lube was silicone paste on the pins, and Silaramic on everything else, because that's all Advance had on a Saturday AM, I don't think it'll be too bad
For reference, this car is a '16 with 60k, and these aren't even the factory rotors and pads, they've been changed at least once before
I guess the AWD and Torque vectoring/Advancetrac really leans on rear brakes to keep this show on the road?
The rotors are the Motorcraft service line coated, the pads are Motorcraft
He didn't like the feel or longevity of the previous aftermarket job, so he spent the money here
It would've been nice to do some bleeding, maybe get the dial gauge out to match mount and check runout, but the time wasn't there, and he's most satisfied with how it all came out
I went heavy with the anti seize on the hub because for some reason, these new rotors didn't have provisions for the forcing screw, hopefully it'll pay off down the road
Now when you do the onboard song and dance to put the EPB into maintenance mode, it works beautifully
Unlike older Ford's, you don't need to turn the piston in, you just compress with the Lisle tool as illustrated
And it's true, they slide right in no problem
Until you go to put it together, and it won't clear the new thicker rotors and pads
Apparently when you let it get this bad, you've gotta wind them back maybe a half turn to gain the clearance you'll need, luckily I've got the tool set for Project Milan's rear brakes, made quick work of it
So yeah, you may still need to wind back the piston just a touch to fit the caliper over
Exercised the EPB a few times, it self adjusts beautifully, picking up the slack
Pedal feel is good, got the ABS kicking in once or twice, checked the fluid level, torqued the lugs, sent it on its way
Arrival to departure was 3 hours, the more attentive and less rusty will probably do better
10/10 would do again
Guard green over grey leather,
looking car Got A/C seats, and a sunroof, it's a quick and comfortable cruiser
However, it needed rear brakes, badly, was down to the backing plate
My friend tried, but couldn't get the rotor off the hub, so he deferred to me, I've never done one of these but it didn't seem too difficult
My first time dealing with EPB, and it was a non issue, I much prefer it to brittle rusty and crusty parking brake cables or shoe in hat design
Oh, have the 19.5mm socket, because Ford still can't make a lug nut to save their lives
Lifting this car is tricky, I think I need to order a pinch weld adapter for the jack, because there's really no good place to lift
You'll need a 7mm Allen, a 15mm for the caliper bracket, an M10x1.5 bolt as a forcing screw if rotors are equipped
The lube was silicone paste on the pins, and Silaramic on everything else, because that's all Advance had on a Saturday AM, I don't think it'll be too bad
For reference, this car is a '16 with 60k, and these aren't even the factory rotors and pads, they've been changed at least once before
I guess the AWD and Torque vectoring/Advancetrac really leans on rear brakes to keep this show on the road?
The rotors are the Motorcraft service line coated, the pads are Motorcraft
He didn't like the feel or longevity of the previous aftermarket job, so he spent the money here
It would've been nice to do some bleeding, maybe get the dial gauge out to match mount and check runout, but the time wasn't there, and he's most satisfied with how it all came out
I went heavy with the anti seize on the hub because for some reason, these new rotors didn't have provisions for the forcing screw, hopefully it'll pay off down the road
Now when you do the onboard song and dance to put the EPB into maintenance mode, it works beautifully
Unlike older Ford's, you don't need to turn the piston in, you just compress with the Lisle tool as illustrated
And it's true, they slide right in no problem
Until you go to put it together, and it won't clear the new thicker rotors and pads
Apparently when you let it get this bad, you've gotta wind them back maybe a half turn to gain the clearance you'll need, luckily I've got the tool set for Project Milan's rear brakes, made quick work of it
So yeah, you may still need to wind back the piston just a touch to fit the caliper over
Exercised the EPB a few times, it self adjusts beautifully, picking up the slack
Pedal feel is good, got the ABS kicking in once or twice, checked the fluid level, torqued the lugs, sent it on its way
Arrival to departure was 3 hours, the more attentive and less rusty will probably do better
10/10 would do again
