Don't the chain guides usually wear out and even disintegrate way before the chain comes even close to nearing end of life?
I would do this.Personally I would run Mobil 1 ESP 5w30, Mobil 1 or Castrol 0w40 and keep it 5K or less. JM2C
No.Don't the chain guides usually wear out and even disintegrate way before the chain comes even close to nearing end of life?
Platinum is 8.3 vis. You could increase vis, slightly, to 8.8 with 0w-20 PU or AFE. Same oci. If it ain't broke, don't "fix" it.I have a 2011 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2.0T that is known for timing stretch in as little as 100,000 kms. I've been running a quality synthetic (5W30 Pennzoil Platinum) for most of it's life at 8000km oil change intervals and the oil analysis comes back perfect, even suggesting I could go longer. There is an improved timing chain design available for this engine but in a sense I'm trying to avoid having to eventually do the work.
So now I'm wondering, if the oil analysis is perfect even at 8K, is there any reason to believe that shortening the OCI's even further would have any meaningful effect on timing chain wear? In the future I'm even considering switching from PP to SuperTech or Kirkland synthetic as they still meet spec so there's no reason to believe they would perform any worse than PP.
Thoughts?
100k mile "lifetime" parts?
I believe in this application, the problem isn't the guides, but rather the chain itself stretching. The engine wasn't designed with a tensioner between the two camshafts. So it doesn't take much stretch to affect how those operate.Don't the chain guides usually wear out and even disintegrate way before the chain comes even close to nearing end of life?
Wow, no tensioner. A stretched chain should beat up on the guides at least during startup. Death rattle.I believe in this application, the problem isn't the guides, but rather the chain itself stretching. The engine wasn't designed with a tensioner between the two camshafts. So it doesn't take much stretch to affect how those operate.
Looks like the main cam-chain does have a tensioner. Typically, there is not an active chain tensioner between the two cam-shafts unless there is a huge distance between them - like on a Ford Coyote V8, then there might also be a tensioner. Most 4-cylinders just have a cam-chain guide between the two cam-shafts too keep the chain tightger between the sprockets. Look like yours doesn't have any guide between the cam sprockets, but it may not really be needed since the distance between the camshaft sprockets isn't huge, and the type of chain used may also have a bearing.I believe in this application, the problem isn't the guides, but rather the chain itself stretching. The engine wasn't designed with a tensioner between the two camshafts. So it doesn't take much stretch to affect how those operate.
Thanks for the thoughts. I know there's still a main tensioner, but thought it was weird there wasn't one between the two camshaft. But I'm limited in experience with 4 cylinder engines. The last Toyota V6 I worked on had a tensioner between the two camshaft so I thought this was weird.Looks like the main cam-chain does have a tensioner. Typically, there is not an active chain tensioner between the two cam-shafts unless there is a huge distance between them - like on a Ford Coyote V8, then there might also be a tensioner. Most 4-cylinders just have a cam-chain guide between the two cam-shafts too keep the chain tightger between the sprockets. Look like yours doesn't have any guide between the cam sprockets, but it may not really be needed since the distance between the camshaft sprockets isn't huge, and the type of chain used may also have a bearing.
Like a few others have said, the original chain was most likely junk, not so much the oil's fault. Upgrading to a better chain is the best fix..I believe it could be the chain design that plays a factor in this. The fix for this is to use the newer timing chain from the newer generation (BK2) engine which has a sturdier design, but still fits the first gen 2.0T (BK1) engine.
*On the thin side for a 30. I like at least a 10.5 , 11.0 or the higher end 30 close to 12 (Valvoline Advanced 5W30 , Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W30 , M1 5W30)PP 5w30 has a 100c viscosity of 9.8.
Most daily drivers (i.e. mixed suburban driving) would do well with a GF-6 5W30 synthetic oil with a 5K ~ 6K mile / 6 month OCI (whichever comes first) . If a GDI turbo engine - then cut back to 4K ~ 5K mile max / 6 months max.ILSAC GF-6 is suppose to help reduce cam-chain wear more than GF-5 per the performance spider chart. Not sure exactly why the wear improvement, but must be a change in the additive package because it would apply regardless of viscosity.
Agree with others that higher viscosity (higher HTHS) will help along with a shorter OCI (5,000-7,000 miles) with synthetic oil. Also, IMO a high efficiency oil filter can't hurt because cleaner oil causes less wear than dirtier oil.
Exactly. OP was asking about a better oil than PP... I think just about any oil would be based on HTHS.*On the thin side for a 30. I like at least a 10.5 , 11.0 or the higher end 30 close to 12 (Valvoline Advanced 5W30 , Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W30 , M1 5W30)
Your timing chain will live longest with clean oil of sufficient viscosity.