Are lower OCI's better for timing chain wear even if analysis is good?

Don't the chain guides usually wear out and even disintegrate way before the chain comes even close to nearing end of life?
 
I'm curious. If you have good analysis (low fuel dilution, low silicon, low fuel soot, low insolubles) in a normal length oci what would the mechanism be that extends timing chain life with shorter intervals?
 
I have a 2011 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2.0T that is known for timing stretch in as little as 100,000 kms. I've been running a quality synthetic (5W30 Pennzoil Platinum) for most of it's life at 8000km oil change intervals and the oil analysis comes back perfect, even suggesting I could go longer. There is an improved timing chain design available for this engine but in a sense I'm trying to avoid having to eventually do the work.

So now I'm wondering, if the oil analysis is perfect even at 8K, is there any reason to believe that shortening the OCI's even further would have any meaningful effect on timing chain wear? In the future I'm even considering switching from PP to SuperTech or Kirkland synthetic as they still meet spec so there's no reason to believe they would perform any worse than PP.

Thoughts?
Platinum is 8.3 vis. You could increase vis, slightly, to 8.8 with 0w-20 PU or AFE. Same oci. If it ain't broke, don't "fix" it.
 
Don't the chain guides usually wear out and even disintegrate way before the chain comes even close to nearing end of life?
I believe in this application, the problem isn't the guides, but rather the chain itself stretching. The engine wasn't designed with a tensioner between the two camshafts. So it doesn't take much stretch to affect how those operate.
 
I believe in this application, the problem isn't the guides, but rather the chain itself stretching. The engine wasn't designed with a tensioner between the two camshafts. So it doesn't take much stretch to affect how those operate.
Wow, no tensioner. A stretched chain should beat up on the guides at least during startup. Death rattle.
 
As always, UOA results DO NOT indicate rates of wear. A good UOA result, coupled with no engine problems, might indicate you have a healthy engine, with no catastrophically failing components. As UOA trends move towards bad they may indicate a failure of some sort, whether it is major or minor is another question entirely. VW/Audi high pres fuel pumps fail and can cause high iron.

Note, that's wear on one small and simple component. Not the entire engine.

Wear rates and UOA results should never be associated.

Your timing chain will live longest with clean oil of sufficient viscosity.
 
I think reduced intervals will positively impact chain life. Getting the soot out sooner than later has merit. Having said that, a design flaw is a design flaw. Oil may help push it a long a bit longer, but ultimately....
 
I believe in this application, the problem isn't the guides, but rather the chain itself stretching. The engine wasn't designed with a tensioner between the two camshafts. So it doesn't take much stretch to affect how those operate.
Looks like the main cam-chain does have a tensioner. Typically, there is not an active chain tensioner between the two cam-shafts unless there is a huge distance between them - like on a Ford Coyote V8, then there might also be a tensioner. Most 4-cylinders just have a cam-chain guide between the two cam-shafts too keep the chain tightger between the sprockets. Look like yours doesn't have any guide between the cam sprockets, but it may not really be needed since the distance between the camshaft sprockets isn't huge, and the type of chain used may also have a bearing.


 
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Looks like the main cam-chain does have a tensioner. Typically, there is not an active chain tensioner between the two cam-shafts unless there is a huge distance between them - like on a Ford Coyote V8, then there might also be a tensioner. Most 4-cylinders just have a cam-chain guide between the two cam-shafts too keep the chain tightger between the sprockets. Look like yours doesn't have any guide between the cam sprockets, but it may not really be needed since the distance between the camshaft sprockets isn't huge, and the type of chain used may also have a bearing.
Thanks for the thoughts. I know there's still a main tensioner, but thought it was weird there wasn't one between the two camshaft. But I'm limited in experience with 4 cylinder engines. The last Toyota V6 I worked on had a tensioner between the two camshaft so I thought this was weird.

I believe it could be the chain design that plays a factor in this. The fix for this is to use the newer timing chain from the newer generation (BK2) engine which has a sturdier design, but still fits the first gen 2.0T (BK1) engine.
 
.I believe it could be the chain design that plays a factor in this. The fix for this is to use the newer timing chain from the newer generation (BK2) engine which has a sturdier design, but still fits the first gen 2.0T (BK1) engine.
Like a few others have said, the original chain was most likely junk, not so much the oil's fault. Upgrading to a better chain is the best fix.
 
You can’t make up for inadequate metallurgy and design with lubricant. Oil analysis can have indicators for abnormal conditions but the primary purpose is to determine if the lubricant is suitable for continued use And eliminate the cost and outage time required to perform changes. For automotive use it is practically a lavish expression of first world worries.
 
ILSAC GF-6 is suppose to help reduce cam-chain wear more than GF-5 per the performance spider chart. Not sure exactly why the wear improvement, but must be a change in the additive package because it would apply regardless of viscosity.

Agree with others that higher viscosity (higher HTHS) will help along with a shorter OCI (5,000-7,000 miles) with synthetic oil. Also, IMO a high efficiency oil filter can't hurt because cleaner oil causes less wear than dirtier oil.
Most daily drivers (i.e. mixed suburban driving) would do well with a GF-6 5W30 synthetic oil with a 5K ~ 6K mile / 6 month OCI (whichever comes first) . If a GDI turbo engine - then cut back to 4K ~ 5K mile max / 6 months max.
 
*On the thin side for a 30. I like at least a 10.5 , 11.0 or the higher end 30 close to 12 (Valvoline Advanced 5W30 , Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W30 , M1 5W30)
Exactly. OP was asking about a better oil than PP... I think just about any oil would be based on HTHS.
 
Your timing chain will live longest with clean oil of sufficient viscosity.

Exactly what constitutes that is a whole different question. A 3,000 mi oci with 2% Fuel Soot or 20% fuel dilution (leaking HPFP) is very different than a 10,000 mi oci with 0.5% fuel dilution and 0.1% fuel soot. This is the problem guys have when they try to equate OCI with chain life on the 3.5EB the individual engines can behave drastically different. 10,000 mi is perfectly safe for 400,000 mi on one and on another they eat the chain in 80,000 mi with 3,000 mi oci. While this is sometimes a parts issue the individual engines can simply vary a lot in how much abuse the oil suffers.
 
girlfriends 18 kia optima has the BLACKEST oil i ever seen, 2.4L DI only 5 thou or 6 months with 10-30 QS fake synthetic in PA
 
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