API SG? HUH???
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The Cninese made engine is only a clone because it "looks" like the Japansese engine. It could use the best performing oil to make up for the inferior machining and metallurgy.
Do consider running the Mobil 1 Motorcycle oil I mentioned. It has an SG rating!
Remember, you may need to run the generator continuously at some point and the synthetic I mentioned will hold up indefinately in extreme conditions (high heat.)
One final comment.
Take a Chinese made clone engine and the Japanese counterpart. Put the same oil in them. Start them and put them under maximum current draw on the generator to bog down the motor. Keep them under full load/pull indefinately. Keep adding fuel to the tanks while they're running. I've got $1000 that says the Chinese engine dies first.
My point is you need a good oil to help your engine live and one with high ZDDP could only be good in such an engine with a basic oiling system and questionable metallurgy.
Try the Mobil 1 MX4T or Racing 4T. Its the exact same oil, Mobil just mixed up the name for some unknown marketing reason. Its at any Wal Mart and it has the SG rating your manual calls for. Also its a highly durable synthetic. Its a $10 insurance policy for your machine
Do consider running the Mobil 1 Motorcycle oil I mentioned. It has an SG rating!
Remember, you may need to run the generator continuously at some point and the synthetic I mentioned will hold up indefinately in extreme conditions (high heat.)
One final comment.
Take a Chinese made clone engine and the Japanese counterpart. Put the same oil in them. Start them and put them under maximum current draw on the generator to bog down the motor. Keep them under full load/pull indefinately. Keep adding fuel to the tanks while they're running. I've got $1000 that says the Chinese engine dies first.
My point is you need a good oil to help your engine live and one with high ZDDP could only be good in such an engine with a basic oiling system and questionable metallurgy.
Try the Mobil 1 MX4T or Racing 4T. Its the exact same oil, Mobil just mixed up the name for some unknown marketing reason. Its at any Wal Mart and it has the SG rating your manual calls for. Also its a highly durable synthetic. Its a $10 insurance policy for your machine
"The Cninese made engine is only a clone because it "looks" like the Japansese engine. It could use the best performing oil to make up for the inferior machining and metallurgy."
Yeah.....
That's why Honda, Harley Davidson, Briggs & Stratton and numerous other small engine manufacturers have their products or components for their products made in China.
Have to say, your above comment may have applied ten years ago but it's no longer the case.
Chinese made engines such as Kipor, Champion, Lifan, and LCT marketed in North America are, good engines. Particularly for their price.
I speak from experience. I own two Chinese built engines (that I'm aware of). A Chinese built Mitsubishi that I've owned for six years and a Champion that I bought last year. I couldn't be more pleased with them.
Go to some of the go-kart racing forums and see what they have to say about the Chinese clones. If an engine is going to be abused, that's where it will happen. You've got a lot of kids with little mechanical experience, running their clone engines wide open at rpms higher than OPE and not giving them the greatest of maintenance. They love them because they're inexpensive, make good power and are durable.
Yeah.....
That's why Honda, Harley Davidson, Briggs & Stratton and numerous other small engine manufacturers have their products or components for their products made in China.
Have to say, your above comment may have applied ten years ago but it's no longer the case.
Chinese made engines such as Kipor, Champion, Lifan, and LCT marketed in North America are, good engines. Particularly for their price.
I speak from experience. I own two Chinese built engines (that I'm aware of). A Chinese built Mitsubishi that I've owned for six years and a Champion that I bought last year. I couldn't be more pleased with them.
Go to some of the go-kart racing forums and see what they have to say about the Chinese clones. If an engine is going to be abused, that's where it will happen. You've got a lot of kids with little mechanical experience, running their clone engines wide open at rpms higher than OPE and not giving them the greatest of maintenance. They love them because they're inexpensive, make good power and are durable.
That's good to hear boraticus, since I did purchase that Ariens snowblower with the LCT 208cc engine.
The manual states the same as the OP, "SG or better". Why not just say "SL or better" or "SM or better". Makes me read more into it than probably needed. I have a huge stash of SM rated PCMO 5w30. However, I couldn't help buying a jug of Rotella T5 10w30 when I was in Watertown yesterday
The manual states the same as the OP, "SG or better". Why not just say "SL or better" or "SM or better". Makes me read more into it than probably needed. I have a huge stash of SM rated PCMO 5w30. However, I couldn't help buying a jug of Rotella T5 10w30 when I was in Watertown yesterday
Originally Posted By: webfors
That's good to hear boraticus, since I did purchase that Ariens snowblower with the LCT 208cc engine.
The manual states the same as the OP, "SG or better". Why not just say "SL or better" or "SM or better". Makes me read more into it than probably needed. I have a huge stash of SM rated PCMO 5w30. However, I couldn't help buying a jug of Rotella T5 10w30 when I was in Watertown yesterday
Let us know how it works out for you.
That's good to hear boraticus, since I did purchase that Ariens snowblower with the LCT 208cc engine.
The manual states the same as the OP, "SG or better". Why not just say "SL or better" or "SM or better". Makes me read more into it than probably needed. I have a huge stash of SM rated PCMO 5w30. However, I couldn't help buying a jug of Rotella T5 10w30 when I was in Watertown yesterday
Let us know how it works out for you.
Originally Posted By: webfors
That's good to hear boraticus, since I did purchase that Ariens snowblower with the LCT 208cc engine.
The manual states the same as the OP, "SG or better". Why not just say "SL or better" or "SM or better". Makes me read more into it than probably needed. I have a huge stash of SM rated PCMO 5w30. However, I couldn't help buying a jug of Rotella T5 10w30 when I was in Watertown yesterday
Actually, my manual doesn't say SG or better. It just lists SG. If it said SG or better that would have made more sense. This is the actual oil recommendation from the manual on my 2010 generator...
Engine Oil: 4-stroke Gasoline:
Engine oil class SE from API Service Classification or SAE 10W-30 engine oil equivalent to Class SG.
Low air temperature( below 10 C ):
Engine oil recommended SAE 10W-30
Frigid air temperature( below 10 C ):
Engine oil recommended Class SE, SF or SAE 10W-30 engine oil equivalent to Class SG.
Kind of all over the place.
That's good to hear boraticus, since I did purchase that Ariens snowblower with the LCT 208cc engine.
The manual states the same as the OP, "SG or better". Why not just say "SL or better" or "SM or better". Makes me read more into it than probably needed. I have a huge stash of SM rated PCMO 5w30. However, I couldn't help buying a jug of Rotella T5 10w30 when I was in Watertown yesterday
Actually, my manual doesn't say SG or better. It just lists SG. If it said SG or better that would have made more sense. This is the actual oil recommendation from the manual on my 2010 generator...
Engine Oil: 4-stroke Gasoline:
Engine oil class SE from API Service Classification or SAE 10W-30 engine oil equivalent to Class SG.
Low air temperature( below 10 C ):
Engine oil recommended SAE 10W-30
Frigid air temperature( below 10 C ):
Engine oil recommended Class SE, SF or SAE 10W-30 engine oil equivalent to Class SG.
Kind of all over the place.
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Well i figured instead of starting a new thread i would just ask here. My friend recently bought a 5000 watt champion generator, with a 338cc chinese honda gx340 clone. It came with some champion brand 10w30, conventional im guessing. I was thinking it would be good to run this fill for like 5 hours, dump and refill with a good synthetic. Would this plan be ok? Also would the oils recommended in this thread work okay for this engine?
My Champion came with a bottle of oil as well. I didn't use it. Not sure why. I'd use it for the five hour flush but I don't think I'd go directly to synthetic after the flush.
Not that there is any sound science around this but I've read accounts that synthetic might not be best for breaking in engines. I know that is difficult to believe account numerous autos come with synthetic oil right out of the plant. However, those same autos don't usually have a break in period/procedure.
Personally, I'm not a big believer in synthetic oil. Not doubting it's superiority. I'm doubting the cost/benefit of using it on relatively short OCI applications.
My Champion recommends 100 hr. OCIs with regular mineral oil. If you plan on running three to five times the hours, go with synthetic. That way, it will pay for itself. If not, why bother?
Not that there is any sound science around this but I've read accounts that synthetic might not be best for breaking in engines. I know that is difficult to believe account numerous autos come with synthetic oil right out of the plant. However, those same autos don't usually have a break in period/procedure.
Personally, I'm not a big believer in synthetic oil. Not doubting it's superiority. I'm doubting the cost/benefit of using it on relatively short OCI applications.
My Champion recommends 100 hr. OCIs with regular mineral oil. If you plan on running three to five times the hours, go with synthetic. That way, it will pay for itself. If not, why bother?
Okay that sounds good. I do believe hers says every 100 hours as well. I'll probably dump it at 5 hours and fill it with some mobil clean 5000.
By the way this is probably the nicest clone engine i have ever seen. The casting and polish of the engine was pretty much perfect, the paint job was excellent and imo for 1/4 the price of a honda it was well worth it.
By the way this is probably the nicest clone engine i have ever seen. The casting and polish of the engine was pretty much perfect, the paint job was excellent and imo for 1/4 the price of a honda it was well worth it.
Originally Posted By: dakota99
Okay that sounds good. I do believe hers says every 100 hours as well. I'll probably dump it at 5 hours and fill it with some mobil clean 5000.
By the way this is probably the nicest clone engine i have ever seen. The casting and polish of the engine was pretty much perfect, the paint job was excellent and imo for 1/4 the price of a honda it was well worth it.
That was my opinion of the engine on my Champion as well. I looked for casting flaws, loose fasteners, shoddy paint and fittings and didn't find anything objectionable. I was also impressed the the construction of the crank case. It looks very robust and rigid with all of the gusseting.
Okay that sounds good. I do believe hers says every 100 hours as well. I'll probably dump it at 5 hours and fill it with some mobil clean 5000.
By the way this is probably the nicest clone engine i have ever seen. The casting and polish of the engine was pretty much perfect, the paint job was excellent and imo for 1/4 the price of a honda it was well worth it.
That was my opinion of the engine on my Champion as well. I looked for casting flaws, loose fasteners, shoddy paint and fittings and didn't find anything objectionable. I was also impressed the the construction of the crank case. It looks very robust and rigid with all of the gusseting.
Yeah it's very nice.
Also one last question, would it be better to close the fuel valve and let the engine burn what's left in the carb, or just turn it off and leave the valve open? I've read both but there doesn't seem to be a consensus as to which is better.
Fuel is treated with mmo and stabil marine.
Also one last question, would it be better to close the fuel valve and let the engine burn what's left in the carb, or just turn it off and leave the valve open? I've read both but there doesn't seem to be a consensus as to which is better.
Fuel is treated with mmo and stabil marine.
Originally Posted By: dakota99
Yeah it's very nice.
Also one last question, would it be better to close the fuel valve and let the engine burn what's left in the carb, or just turn it off and leave the valve open? I've read both but there doesn't seem to be a consensus as to which is better.
Fuel is treated with mmo and stabil marine.
Short term storage you will be fine just shutting it off with fuel treatment in there. Long term drain the carb( even the entire tank if using ethanol blended fuels ).
Yeah it's very nice.
Also one last question, would it be better to close the fuel valve and let the engine burn what's left in the carb, or just turn it off and leave the valve open? I've read both but there doesn't seem to be a consensus as to which is better.
Fuel is treated with mmo and stabil marine.
Short term storage you will be fine just shutting it off with fuel treatment in there. Long term drain the carb( even the entire tank if using ethanol blended fuels ).
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