Which oil is good for my Commercial Kohler Command 23hp engine? I have API specs

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The Kohler manual calls for "SG, SH, SJ or higher" 10w30
The oil I was using is a Walmart synthetic 10w30 with API service SP. But......it sounds like some people on the lawn equipment site do not think that this type of oil is ok. I get plenty of people saying I need something else with more zinc in it. Some people even use zinc additives. I also have a diesel truck and some people say to use Rotella. Can someone help clear this up for me? Thanks.
 
The Kohler manual calls for "SG, SH, SJ or higher" 10w30
The oil I was using is a Walmart synthetic 10w30 with API service SP. But......it sounds like some people on the lawn equipment site do not think that this type of oil is ok. I get plenty of people saying I need something else with more zinc in it. Some people even use zinc additives. I also have a diesel truck and some people say to use Rotella. Can someone help clear this up for me? Thanks.

There are 2 things you really need to do:
1) Check your oil level before you are going to mow your yard.
2) Blow the Mower off after you are done mowing your yard.

I could tell you why I think the oil I use for my Mower is the best, but it really comes down to making sure you have enough oil in the Mower and you change it once a season. That is for Number 1

Number 2 is also important because if you blow the mower off after each use you will have less of a chance of the cooling fins getting loaded up with Grass and junk.
 
I've personally had good results with Rotella T 10w-30. I run it at a 100-125 hour OCI on a Kawasaki V-Twin that is water cooled, and am at 3500+ hours with zero unexpected engine issues. This is in a John Deere 425 with All Wheel Steering.

I also run a second Deere 425 that is newer with less hours, and do the same with it.

A synthetic oil is not necessary for good results.
 
I've used Royal Purple HPS 5w30 in our Craftsman riding lawnmower. One season, I used Amsoil 0w40. The takeaway is,just like someone else said,just check your oil before each time you go to use it. And I'll agree again with cleaning the grass off the mower afterwards 👍
 
Even if it was still a current thing (high zinc oils), it is my understanding that ZDDP was mainly used for flat tappet cams with high valve spring pressure.

Don't know if you've ever taken an OPE engine apart, but the valve springs they use are hardly 'high pressure'. You can usually collapse them with a couple of fingers and a mild push.
 
Some commercial engines want a thicker grade of oil than a 10w-30. I don't mow commercially & use 10w-30 in my twin cylinder b&s lawn tractor. 15w-40 in my rebuilt 17hp single cylinder Kawasaki JD garden tractor.
 
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My buddy recently bought a new lawn tractor with a Kawasaki engine and the owner of the shop that he purchased from said to use conventional oil as they carry more zinc than synthetic oils. When my buddy called me to ask my(BITOG) opinion and I told my buddy that in the oil grades he was considering(10W30/10W40) for the Kawasaki, that all SP oils(conventional or synthetic) today have less zinc(~800ppm) than in years past. However, he could use HDEO's to get the zinc(~1000ppm) that the shop owner was talking about. Am I wrong? :unsure:

EDIT: I said my buddy bought a tractor but it's a ZeroTurn.
 
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My buddy recently bought a new lawn tractor with a Kawasaki engine and the owner of the shop that he purchased from said to use conventional oil as they carry more zinc than synthetic oils. When my buddy called me to ask my(BITOG) opinion and I told my buddy that in the oil grades he was considering(10W30/10W40) for the Kawasaki, that all SP oils(conventional or synthetic) today have less zinc(~800ppm) than in years past. However, he could use HDEO's to get the zinc(~1000ppm) that the shop owner was talking about. Am I wrong? :unsure:
That's right, & to add could use Euro oil also to get more zinc.

EDIT: upon further thinking... they could use some non SP rated HDEO oil to get more zinc. Good thing is most are still SN rated for now and come with higher amounts.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/voa-diesel-oil-database.362789/

Also, the additives are not always the whole story. Oil Co's are putting higher amounts of zinc in an HDEO 10w-30 b/c they're needed whereas in a 15w-40 may not need as much.
 
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Even if it was still a current thing (high zinc oils), it is my understanding that ZDDP was mainly used for flat tappet cams with high valve spring pressure.

Don't know if you've ever taken an OPE engine apart, but the valve springs they use are hardly 'high pressure'. You can usually collapse them with a couple of fingers and a mild push.
+1

The need for high zinc oils in a small engine is an internet myth.
 
The old SG rating they recommend, is the same as what alot of air cooled motorcycle mfgrs recommended back in the day, and some still do. If your mower is air cooled that's should be all you need. Lokk around at how many old mowers are still around and mowing. Myself, my oldest is 28 years old. And I'm not known for being a oil change fanatic. Some guys say they use the old oil from there oil changes for mower changes. Id never do that, but feel the engine will outlast the rest of the mower.,,
 
Some guys say they use the old oil from there oil changes for mower changes. Id never do that,
I'm with you but I gotta say my old auto engine oil would be better than most oil found in the crankcases of dirt ingesting OPE.

Remember, I'm the freak who'd calmly and quietly check friend's and relative's oil and after finding it frequently shockingly low, top off with my slightly prematurely changed engine oil then advise them to get their oil changed.
 
Our Honda rider went 20+ years on conventional Rotella 15W-40. Typical Honda overhead valve engine, air cooled, and no oil filter. What put it out of service was a catastrophic transmission failure. No oil usage, ever.

We put that [censored] in all of our power equipment, and motorcycles.
 
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